Farrgo

I thought there was an article as well but I lost patient after sifting through the 11th post about how his hammers are superior to petzl's;)

While I'm on a roll asking newb questions... can anyone help me with fitting CT hammers to Nomics? The bolt holes do not align and probably need ~2mm of filing to fit. Should I file the hammer or the pick... or neither? I'm not sure which generation CT hammer I have though I bought them last season and I have current generation Nomics.

Anybody know if you can safely interchange front bails between crampon brands? I'm thinking specifically of interchanging Petzl toe bails onto a pair of G12s. The standard Grivel toe bail seems to tight to fit the wider toe box on my Baturas and Spantiks. Anybody else run into this problem? Suggestions?

No snow last winter we didn't use flotation either time. No, I had my Alaskan camping trip in March! Weird it didn't make my top 5...

1. W Face CBR in January 2. NE Buttress Dragontail in February 3. Girth Pillar 4. Beckey-Chouinard 5. Freedom Rider

FWIW I wouldn't venture away from the top-roping circuit without knowing how to fire in a thread. There are pretty much only two ways to extricate yourself from a bad spot when leading ice and that is down-climbing or setting a thread. You won't be able to get far until you get basic ice skills down. If you don't know how to set a thread then figure it out whether that is on a frozen lake, at the base of a climb or with a block of ice in the sink. The only trick is figuring out how to angle the screws such that you don't make a 10cm thread with 22cm screws. Evaluating the quality of ice, etc. comes with experience and can't be replicated.

Here are some pictures from Strobach yesterday. It looks like things have been building since Colin and Bryan were in there but not enough. At the current pace it looks like we could be several more weeks from good climbing as there is still rock showing underneath the ice, very little ice formed on the slabs above pillars and mostly nonexistent top-outs. We saw one or two sets of recent tracks in the area. Obviously somebody didn't want the karma and will probably be reincarnated again as a PNW ice climber, which is presumably the least desirable station. Observations: Maybe: SCB, SCP, Ice Dreams, Bleeder, FOR Forming: Unholy, Dropline, Unnamed A, Ponderosa SCB->Dropline Unholy

Even the NPS report says as much. Regardless, you won't make it past MP21 if you even get there.

Nate Tack is in B.C., I'm the slightly less glamorous Tacoma.

Gated at MP 21 if your rig can reach it. http://www.nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/road-conditions.htm

Skis plus slowshoes is the best non-motorized approach method. Skis for the road and shoes for the 'shwack where skis are fairly hateful. They do groom the road for snowmobilers so it should only suck for the off-road section which isn't too long. I've been doing a fair amount of trail breaking lately and one should expect it to take about twice as long as normal due to deep snow. A three hour approach is pretty standard for the area even for the non-hardmen but can take a lot longer if you get lost. Also, I have gps coordinates for the motherlode area that I'll put up when I'm with my gps next.

Sold some stuff, lowered some prices... Gear: MSR Whisperlight Internation Version $20 Used. I just had this out last weekend and its fully functional but has several years of use. I ended up with a brand new Whisperlight and will no longer need this one. NRS Boots Size 8 $20 Very lightly used. Worn in the water once and still in perfect condition. NRS has changed there product line since these were purchased so there is nothing to directly compare them to. They are mid-top pull on with one Velcro strap. Black Diamond Trail Trekking Pole (single) $20 Lightly used. I lost its mate and have subsequently ended up with a brand new pair. Rawl 3/8 x 2” Bolt + Pagan Gear Hanger + 2x D-Rings $10 Brand new, never left the house. Books: Medicine for Mountaineering 5th edition $10 The Big Open by Rick Ridgeway $5 The Beckoning Silence by Joe Simpson $5 Climbers Guide to the Teton Range $15 High Exposure by David Breashers $5 Eiger Dreams by Jon Krakauer $5 Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue 2nd edition $10

I don't know, I feel that Pipeline is about a grade easier than Free-for-Some. I got Pipeline onsight but I only get FFS about half the time even after climbing it a ton... I guess its all about comfort on a particular terrain vs route.

Rope Bag, Beyond the Mountain and Climbing Anchors sold pending funds.

Just cleaning out the apartment and getting rid of some superfluous climbing, camping and kayaking gear as well as some books. Feel free to shoot me an offer if you think any of the prices are off-base. Local pick-up (Tacoma) or shipping as needed for whatever it costs. Gear: REI Half Dome Plus Tent $50 Used. I’ve had this for several years and since acquired newer three season tents. The only damage on this tent is a couple rips on the screen mesh which could be repaired with a cheap repair kit if willing. Expect normal wear and tear elsewhere. It comes with the footprint which can be used with poles and fly only for a lightweight shelter. MSR Whisperlight Internation Version $30 Used. I just had this out last weekend and its fully functional but has several years of use. I ended up with a brand new Whisperlight and will no longer need this one. Beyond the Mountain by Steve House $10 Perfect condition… even signed if you care. NRS Boots Size 8 $30 Very lightly used. Worn in the water once and still in perfect condition. NRS has changed there product line since these were purchased so there is nothing to directly compare them to. They are mid-top pull on with one Velcro strap. Black Diamond Trail Trekking Pole (single) $25 Lightly used. I lost its mate and have subsequently ended up with a brand new pair. On Sight Rope Bag $20 Used by still in great condition. Product design is very similar to the Metolius Ropemaster bag. Petzl Oscilante Pullys (pair) $20 Never used, carried a couple times. On Sight Spectra Daisy $15 Used. The spectra is a little fuzzy but it is in good shape still. The chain is just a little short for my reach when aiding. Ushba Titanium Nut Tool $10 Very lightly used. Rawl 3/8 x 2” Bolt + Pagan Gear Hanger + 2x D-Rings $10 Brand new, never left the house. Canon NB-1LH Battery $Free New. Accidentally bought the wrong battery for my camera. You pick it up or pay for shipping and its free. Books: Beyond the Mountain by Steve House $10 (Mint, signed if your into that sort of thing) Medicine for Mountaineering 5th edition $10 The Big Open by Rick Ridgeway $10 The Beckoning Silence by Joe Simpson $5 Climbers Guide to the Teton Range $25 High Exposure by David Breashers $5 Eiger Dreams by Jon Krakauer $5 Climbing Anchors 1st edition by John Long $5 Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue 2nd edition $10

Beacon has many sub tens for the new trad leader

Anybody up for some single day alpine in a close-ish proximity to Tacoma/Seattle?

I was looking at Ingall's area from Stuart yesterday. I was a little surprised how much snow there was lingering. I'm sure the climb is just fine but everything else including the lake appeared frozen.

I use a grivel alp monster. It's heavy but until recently was the only non-modified tool in the market that was short, had a hammer and would swing like an ice tool if needed. Other than the weight it's a pretty good little tool.

Yes, but not as much as I had heard. I went up a couple weeks ago when it had dumped all day and found that there were only a couple routes mid-12 and down that we're dry/or at least dry in the crux. I'd go if your excited, but if your short on time, spend it elsewhere.

Too big, never used just tried on. $70 shipped.

Anybody know if its been climbed?

Unless I'm thinking of this wrong rigging the rap to pull the lead line first would mean that you are rapping with both ropes through the device (like a standard double/twin rope descent). I've done that before and it was real crappy and real scary and I wouldn't do it again. I understand the concern of getting a rope stuck and ending up a chunk of cordalette for the rest of the descent. In general for long descents that require more then 10 rappels I figure that it is probably taking a rope system that will expedite the descent (rather than simply a light system that quickens the approach). If you are only going to do a few rappels than it is less committing even if the rope gets chopped. My 2 cents...

Bump for lower prices

Who's done it? Gear beta? Pictures/antidote psych?