Farrgo

I have the GoPro 2.0 as well. It is definitely a niche item, albeit a rad one. You can buy an LCD screen that allows you to see what you are filming (comes with additional waterproof casing). I haven't used this camera other than just holding it in my hand, but I would imagine getting interesting footage would involve a bit of trial and error before figuring out what the proper the mounting position/placement would be.

As a newer climber you should just go and buy the cheapest rope you can find that is 60m long and 10mm or greater. Unless you plan to use it in the mountains as well don't worry, or pay for dry-treatment. Check out justropes.com I always seem to find great deals on ropes through them.

One pair of waders makes for a cruxy South Fork approach.

Marcus on the Colton-Leech, Mt. Huntington, AK.

Rick and Jake up high in the Cordillera Blanca.

Marcus on Cryophobia.

Marcus up high on the Colton-Leech, Mt. Huntington, AK.

Grim conditions in Leavenworth this morning. We only drove up to Dog Dome but everything looked out. Two days ago Dog Dome was in pretty good shape so the deterioration has been rapid. There was a lot of ice at Banks Lake yesterday and a thick fog bank prevented any sun from hitting the routes. It wasn't particularly cold and I bet most of the routes wouldn't last long if the fog lifted and they saw any direct sunlight.

I'll go out on a limb and say there is no way the trail is clear by June... as it usually takes all summer for it to clear of snow. Either go early and make a ski circumnavigation (more fun mind you) or go in early fall and walk...

We followed someone's established threads about half the time but were able to do two raps off a bolted route on climber's left (one off a single half-inch bolt, the second off a station with chains). Additionally, unless we're completely mistaken, this route is a lot closer to 330m than 420m. Here's how we broke down the pitches: P1 70m to a belay cave on left of crux pillar. P2 50m to a rock belay on large snowfield to right of climb. P3 70m to snowfield and belay in alcove on the right. P4 70m to a cave belay to the left. P5 70m to the trees. The 70m pitches were long and the follower usually needed to move beneath the pitch but there was no simul-ing per.

I experienced somewhat similar objective hazards a last week and noted that the climb was very sun affected and incredibly wet even in the early to mid-morning and quite degraded at about the level you mention but there was no fog bank that day. We saw one note-worthy ice fall in the afternoon after we finished and also rapped the rock route and avoided hangers where we could. The prior ascensionists I talked to didn't note this problem so i assumed i experienced a somewhap abberrant event, perhaps they had safer conditions by exploiting a wisp of cloud or slightly cooler temps (we climbed Tuesday following Vern and Craig's ascent). Regardless I was not willing to head back later that week for a repeat climb as planned with direct sunlight and similar weather forecasted. Sorry about losing that fancy new cord but it obviously could have been worse.

Doesn't look very fangish!

Some might argue being a long way from Seattle is a great asset!

My buddy has been doing canyoneering/rock climbing guiding from Zion the past two-years and will do it this year also. PM me if interested...

Anyone happen to make a trip into Strobach this weekend or know how it fared in the inversion?

Sorry the formatting is lost in translation but its in the 40s at 7k at least...

1-20-2013 Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center Top of The Magic Mile chair, Timberline, Oregon Wind speed out MM/DD Hour Temp RH Wind Wind Wind Wind PST F % Min Avg Max Dir 7000' 7000' 7000' 7000' 7000' 7000' ------------------------------------------------ 1 19 900 43 20 0 1 2 9 1 19 1000 45 19 0 1 1 15 1 19 1100 45 26 0 1 1 26 1 19 1200 46 24 0 1 2 16 1 19 1300 45 25 0 1 2 338 1 19 1400 45 26 0 1 2 323 1 19 1500 44 25 0 1 2 23 1 19 1600 43 25 0 1 2 29 1 19 1700 43 20 0 1 2 31 1 19 1800 42 20 0 1 2 24 1 19 1900 42 18 0 1 2 21 1 19 2000 41 17 0 1 2 23 1 19 2100 42 17 0 1 2 10 1 19 2200 42 16 0 1 2 18 1 19 2300 41 14 0 1 2 21 1 20 0 42 14 0 1 2 21 1 20 100 42 15 0 1 2 22 1 20 200 42 16 0 1 2 23 1 20 300 41 18 0 1 2 24 1 20 400 41 18 0 1 2 25 1 20 500 41 18 0 1 2 25 1 20 600 41 17 0 1 2 28 1 20 700 40 18 0 1 2 35 1 20 800 40 21 0 1 2 36

Bump for lower prices...

True however he is still using time as the main determinate for the grades i.e., grade III and IV being long multipitch routes taking several hours to most of the day to complete and being modified by other factors. A grade V isn't a grade V just because its under a serac... its a grade V because it is "a long climb that requires a competent party all day to complete."

Ice grades are strange... just flip through JoJos Waterfall Ice book (which I will gladly sell for the going rate of $2000). The Sorcerer is a 3-pitch Grade IV and Whiteman Falls is a 2-pitch Grade IV. Those grades make are nonsense and in fact if use them as a benchmark then this climb is probably solid grade VI if not even VII! It's probably best to not even apply alpine grades to crag routes.

Bump for new items...

Grivel Alp Monster $50 38cm version, in great shape used only twice. Small enough to carry inside a backpack when climbing. The North Face Mountain Jacket $70 -Size Medium. Gore-tex XCR version. In immaculate shape. Black Diamond Trail Trekking Pole $25 -I broke its mate but the pole is in great condition and has only been used a few times. Nicros Croc Blok Hangboard $20 Lightly used, comes with installations hardware and some foot jibs if needed. I'll install it on a board ready to mount. Black Diamond Lockdown Leashes $10 each (have two) Very lightly used. Go retro with your climbing style... Grivel G12 Front Bails $10 Used once in perfect condition. Also, I have an original griprest for a first generation quark free to a good home...

I can't point to any specific lune in particular but there seemed to be several couple pitch Scottish style climbs and some pillars higher up that might prove in shape. My camera dies in the wind and cold so unfortunately no pics.

It was an easy mod... I'm not sure it was five minutes but I was measuring in beers not minutes so the timeline isn't clear;) I've got seven days in the Can Rockies starting Sunday so I'll have plenty of time to break these in...

Multiple multi-pitch lines (I don't think the ones from the guidebook) look good across from Alpental today. Also, NYG and PE are looking icy. There is easy snow travel with floats to the climbs as well.