glen

A buddy and I are planning on climbing as many of the Cascade volcanoes as we cna this spring and ski down as much as is sane (boy, talk about a great way to invite the spray!) on the way down to add some fun. Do any of you have any info on when the road out to Adams opens up? Also, anyone have any preferred routes for Hood?

Nadia, Check your PM's Glen

As far as places to go climbing near Fresno... Avoid Pinnacles Nat'l Monument. The drive is longer than getting to Yosemite and it pretty much is big pile of choss. You have not experienced rockfall until you've been to Pinnacles. It tends to be the worst this time of year too as the rock is weakened by the wetness. I lived about an hour and a half from there for 6 years and didn't go down that often once I knew the difference. IF you decide to go that route, go to the east side of the monument, and areas such as the upper crust and Discovery Wall are pretty good. If you want a long one you can set up a TR on, Coyote Ugly is fun (and ever changing due to rockfall. *Only* do the 10c variation on TR). There are a couple of local areas around there in the Sierra foothills. The local guideshops are okay and friendly. Probably the nicest people in Fresno. "Fresno: the source of all irrational thought."

Climing-wise, I grew up in BFE with only a few choss piles available for TRs. My best friend and I sat down with a book on top of the choss and managed to figure it out. We erred on the side of overkill, took 2 hours to set up the first one and are still alive. If someone did happen across us who knew more than we did, we sponged info. It is possible to do it on your own, if you engage your brain. There are very few mystical qualities to TR anchors, jsut some basic mechanical common sense. oh yeah, and beware the complacency of the gym... those sodium lights can give a meaaaan sunburn...

I have spent a fair amount of time using the etrek 'Summit' with the built in altimiter and electronic compass. My usage involves frequent calibration against USGS monuments and I've been pretty impressed with the accuracy/precision of the altimeter (+/- 10 to 20 feet isn't bad compared to the vertical resolution of just GPS. Certainly good enough for mountaineering). It is also a fun as a speedometer and picks up with measurements in the first 40' of travel. Probably worth the extra couple of bucks over the base model. After shopping around a bit, I was able to find one for ~140 clams.

Study geology. I spend a few weeks a year in Yosemite working and I don't have to take time off to do it. Granted I have to work while I'm there (including hiking, finding 'exposed' rock...), but I also get to take time to do what I want. Before I that I just got a job in the park. Bag a peak after work, and make sure you get a 4-10 shift. 3 months a year in the mountains (applications for NPS due on the 23rd). As with all things in life, "Think outside the cubicle."

Where are my tele skins again?

Ah, but have we forgotten the promised land of the East Side of the Sierras? Easy to find free camping, easy access to Tuolumne Meadows (why swelter in the Valley when TM is 75 degrees and has fewer Tourons?), not to mention a pile of awesome bouldering, and sport climbing if you feel like it. Heck, there's even a bunch of epic long alpine routes. Then again, I might be biased...

Lambone, What about a single ice screw? My 1 and a half cents... (sense)On overhanging terrain you don't want to pull in slack as the leader falls because it will result in a harder hit against the rock/wall in the horizontal direction. The rope is shorter, angular momentum has to be conserved and the leader gets a broken ankle. How much good a 'hop' by the belayer will do will also depend on how much rope is out, hence the whole concept of the fall factor. Being attached to the anchor at the belay is not a constant decision (as anyone who has climbed at Pinnacles Nat'l Monument knows). As with all things in climbing, make your own decision based on what's up.

I think the "I RULE" quote was actually from an aritcle that appeared in the rag of rags, Climbing magazine. In the same article she complained of having a bit more difficulty with the underarm crossovers now... Go figure.

A bit more of a warm weather, but a personal favorite is the backcountry margarita. Bring a bit of tequila, a bit of powdered country time lemonade (tastes better than Kool Aid) and a plastic lime and you are good to go. They taste like shit in the front country, but are backcountry bliss...

Hello all. I'm coming back from a series of fun tendon injuries and am looking for partners at VW to climb with. I can belay for lead and would prefer those than can also (heck, I'll even catch when you fall). I'd like to go a couple of nights a week, preferably tuesday and thursday, but my schedule is pretty flexible. If you're interested in swappin belays, drop a line. Glen