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Dr.Hook

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Everything posted by Dr.Hook

  1. Sal, I'm currently looking at picking up one of those Taiga bags. I own one of their down/dryloft jackets and love it, especially the price. How long have you had/used the bag and how well does it pack down? In addition what faults have you found if any.
  2. Pardon me hairsplitters. Let me clarify for those who couldn't figure it out: rope was not necessary for the climb, but yes, handy for the rappel.
  3. Okay so we went up to climb the white dyke today and had a superb day in the hills. It was our first time to the area, outside of a winter foray a few years back. Route was straight forward with minor difficulties. As previously suggested the dyke goes at 3rd class with a couple of 4th class steps low down. Nice holds on solid rock, rope wasn't necessary. From the shoulder of Edge we bailed on the summit, the climbing didn't look that aesthetic and timing was an issue. We rapped a gully just down and left from the shoulder when facing east (thanks dR) and continued through to Golden Ears and Panorama Ridge. Car to car 11 hours. Beautiful day, couldn't ask for more.
  4. Couple of things to keep in mind if you are attempting any routes on N.Face. When approaching glacier the guide says climb morain to shoulder stay right. You will approach up a low angled polished tongue of pink rock and you breach the wall almost directly above this, near trees to the right(even though there appears to be easier ground left, there isn't, see above). In addition the first turn off the P. Meadows road is actually onto the Lillouet FSR not Hurley FSR as indicated in the guide. Once on Lillouet FSR second turn off is the Hurley and then Upper Hurley FSR. If you are planning to camp at the end of the logging road (you need 4wd hc) bring a tent, it is serious bear country and area stinks like poo. One more thing, if you plan to soak it up at Meager Hotsprings down the road it now closes at 6:00pm and will cost you $5. to get past the redneck. Good Luck Toby
  5. The Godforsaken Sea, forgot the author but tells the story of the Vendee Globe, a single handed (yes solo) yachting race around the globe- if I recall correctly the top sailers do it in under 100 days, disqualification if you head to shore. I thought sailing was for pussies until I read this. Much nautical info and gripping to say the least.
  6. Do not even think of soloing the white dyke, you better take me.
  7. Searched for the booty but no luck (big rack). Our attempt on Joffre was thwarted just after 7:00am when it had to be close to 20-25 degrees and not a hint of a breeze. The S.E. snow face was sheding like a slurpee machine and a couple of big sluffs within five minutes of debating send us back for an afternoon of skiing. To any climbers heading up beware of the cornice hazard some biggies just waiting to be dispatched. Had a great day skiing (soft snow) and the cabin to ourselves.
  8. Wanting to head up this Mon/Tues for a ski and climb but am hearing funky things about snow conditions as of late due to bizarre weather. Has anybody been up there or the surrounding areas recently?
  9. If you are serious about doing some alpine routes up in the great white north, I am also looking for parteners for an outing May 13, 14, 15. I do not have a vehicle but am motivated. Generally don't climb rock unless it is in the alpine and am axious to get off the ground. So long as you are (tolerate) a drinker and/or smoker I would be happy to join. I do have skis and don't mind travelling to get to a destination. James Turner perhaps?
  10. Dru, do you have a job or what?
  11. Never had a problem with the rangers in Jtree, they seemed courteous for the most part. I'm sure the size of the shotguns mounted to the dash have something to do with that. I'd imagine most of their problems stem from the LA types who drive in for a weekend in the sticks vs the climbers.
  12. Am thinking of buying this jacket because a friend is offering it at a great deal. Has anyone used this jacket and what are your experiences with it?
  13. One more thing, No. 5 is located very close to skid row and a waste of time if you have any class. Try Brandi's or the Penthouse.
  14. One more thing, No. 5 is located very close to skid row and a waste of time if you have any class. Try Brandi's or the Penthouse.
  15. Doc J, Hope you're friends are not planning any outdoor activities this weekend? If so they may have to settle for BC's indoor sport (although it is dumping on the mtns as we speak). They may have luck at Blunt Bros but Memorial Park across the street offers a fine (or not so) variety of options. Granville (at Robson) street on a weekend also provides a number of enterprising young suburban kids. As it is St. Patty's there will plenty to do in the downtown core. In addition the city centre does offer some affordable accomodation in the way of hostels and a few hotels. Try the Park Place on Davie (so long as they are not homophobes) I've heard it's clean and affordable and the Sylvia Hotel by Stanely Park. Hell, if they have problems email me, I'll set'em up
  16. Fine, yes you'd win the war, but I had to gloat just a little
  17. Was climbing in Golden/Field area last week (16-20) and had great conditions at the beginning of the trip. Temps hovered around zero with blue skies. Mid-week temps rose and ice started deteriorating. None-the-less the ice is fat on most routes we encountered. Have a great time. Any ice in Whistler?
  18. I have used this ID bivy sack for the last few years and it has treated me very well. I stopped using the pole as it doesn't pack that well and doesn't stay up (not usually a problem I have). It will not fit two.
  19. I have used this ID bivy sack for the last few years and it has treated me very well. I stopped using the pole as it doesn't pack that well and doesn't stay up (not usually a problem I have). It will not fit two.
  20. Thanks, will post condition report next week
  21. Planning a trip to Golden in the upcoming weeks, has anyone climbed ice in the Kicking Horse Canyon?
  22. I have tried numerous techniques in an attempt to control the mind riot of running it out over trad gear. The only thing I have found to work is a quote I heard from Barry Blanchard when he was asked what he does when he gets scared (which I am sure is rarely) and his reply was, move upwards. I found that when I feel the voices coming on I just convince myself to move up a move or two and it takes my mind off the whipper potential.
  23. And what if you fall into the all of the above category?
  24. I was told technique is a poor excuse for lack of strength?
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