Ed_Hobbick

SW Rib of SEWS would be my choice, but whatever.

True, being from snow country, the last thing I want is a weak algorithm managing any skids I happen to get into. So yeah, I similarly don't delegate belaying to a device either and don't think belaying off anchors is a particularly good idea. But it does play into doing other things than belaying when belaying if one is already so inclined. Modern ABS is pretty refined, in fact I'm pretty certain you couldn't outbrake it on a majority of slippery surfaces with manual brakes, especially on turns. I know exactly how modern abs units work, half of what I do of late is write sensor-related apps. The problem is they don't help at all in the Gorge when I want it most, are worse when dealing with snow skids, and only excel during emergency stops on dry/somewhat wet pavement. Not enough benefit for the intrusion from my perspective. Basically the two things I for sure don't want a computer doing is braking an automobile and talking (ever). Exactly. "Easier" is certainly one word for it I suppose. But it's tough enough as is these days to get people to simply STFUAB without introducing a habit which encourages even more slovenly habits. Belaying a second on a big wall aid line? Sure, but that's pretty much it. As for the other, I don't like climbing in threesomes, don't ever want two followers climbing at the same time, and don't really like seeing someone taking pictures, eating or picking their nose when some else is climbing. Can the anti-lock feature be disabled on new cars?

I'm thinking that he figured he could hold his weight with his hand for a second or so if necessary. He prob figured that his left foot might come off. I'm thinking that he is dealing with known variables, he knows the gravity force, he knows the steepness, he knows the rating, and he knows the climbs duration as it relates to his muscle fatigue and with that and ect, he feels that he simply has to climb the route while applying his known abilities. He prob accepts the fact that a rock or a person could fall on him and writes that off to calculated risk. If he starts out on uncharted territory, now that he prob figures would be crazy. Off course he could prob down-climb.

I have a rack and a rope and can lead all the pitches if needed. Ed

The petzl tribloc is my latest method of ascending a rope with the mini traxion to back it up. Foot loop with tribloc, mini traxion on waist. These are my hauling system as well. Now if I just had some climbing partners

I think that it's even better to use two non lockers, opposite and opposed on the harness with a clove hitch. This gives you an extra beaner without much extra wieght. The butterfly and the other ways are fine too. It's just that with the clove hitch, once you get out of they belay you don't have to untie a knot for the haul system. This is just a system that made sense to me after thinking about it for a few hours and I'm not a proffesional, I'm an amatuer.

Yes I was talking about tying in. I use this method for two man glacier travel. I make sure the clove hitch is snug of course. What is your concern about this method? I have thought about it myself and welcome your input. Perhaps my way is not safe.

I've connected to my harness with a locker and a clove hitch. Are you talking for glacier travel purposes?

Guy Peak Improbable traverse is pretty good you'd prob like it, but it is not sustained climbing. Infinite Bliss might be good. I got the beta at Pro Ski Service in North Bend when I climbed it several years ago. I don't know if there is a guidebook for it. Let us know what you decide to do.

I'd say that the risk he'd be taking would be similar to riding a motorcycle from Seattle to San Francisco with his buddy on the back without a helmet on. They'd probably pull it off, but would have looked kind of stupid in the process. Also when they got home they might not feel all that good about the trip considering the risk they took. 14000 feet is high! It's higher than 12000' by quite a bit Bringing a third person would put them at a more common risk level, even if the person is not an expert, but is in pretty dam good shape. my two cents take it for what it's worth

I've never done this but John Long mentions using Tincture of benzoin on your hands prior to putting the tape on to make it stick better and longer. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tincture_of_benzoin

You can rack doubles to 3 on your harness and still have room for a set of nuts and a couple aliens. You could then have another set of singles to 3 on a shoulder sling. Do you carry more than that?

I agree with what pete said. It's about minimizing rope drag for one thing. And it's also about adding a sling so as to not pull out your protection as you climb above it. This will become very obvious in a very short period of time as you climb upwards and toward the actual objective.

By mixing a half a cup of minute rice with them you can reduce the amount of sodium per calorie. They are tolerable when eaten in this manner, for me.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trail_blazing There are more aesthetic ways of marking trails than those flags, but there are no cheaper ways.

Lucky kid! I saw a guy and his dog climb it one time, that was pretty cool too.

I just wonder if the rock would be wet due to snow-melt.

The route is all wet, is that what you mean?

Of course then there are places where your "Lookin at a ground fall" and this is different then being "run-out" because the hazard there is objective where as when I'm run out, I'm not really sure what would happen and don't want to find out and don't really want to think about it nor do I really have time to, so I just focus on climbing.

Your run out when the fall would be of a distance greater than you really care to think about in a place where a fall has some probability of occurring. My two cents, take it for what it's worth.

Which routes are you considering?

Are you talking about sport climbing specifically or mountain climbing in general?

I would try the coverall idea next to the house first. I have a black diamond 1 man saber if you want to buy it for cheap.

Thanks Buckaroo Talk to you soon about iPrussik W. Ridge

Have either of you climbed Fury?