Ed_Hobbick

I'd be for sticking with the pitons. It would be a literal travesty to bolt that traverse. ...You don't take a 1960 Chevy and put a waist and shoulder strap seat-belt in it because it would be "safer": you stick with the existing waist restraint device because that is how it came stock. That said, you might need to replace the piton.

Sweet Climb!! One of the Classics.

The question here is what specifications does the uiaa use to design a half rope as compared to a single rope.

If you have to bivouac, a thicker rope makes for a warmer blanket and for that reason would be safer for cold weather climbs as you would have more material with which to use as insulation to stave of hypothermia.

Guye Peak Improbable Traverse or The Tooth SW Face.

I would be game, but I'm working on Sunday and Tuesday, but then I'm off all week.

Or Serpentine Arete or Guye Peak

Drive out early tmro morning and back late tmro night.

Perhaps a Chairlift to carry all my gear.

Go to Alpine Hut for boot fitting if you still need advice.

Where was this 12" ledge and on what route?

I can go.... as the Tooth is prob the most sought after climbing objective in the Cascades, aside from all the others.

Adidas poly T-Shirts from Costco and $60 light down jacket

What I did to my plastic boots that were just a little too small was this. I literally cut the toe end of the boot liner off. My toes simply project from the liner into space, inside the plastic shell. I have absolutely no problem with them now and I have the snugness that I like in the instep and ankle. It took some balls too cut off the end of the liner boot, but It turned out to be very worthwhile.

Climb some moderates, Burgundy Spire maybe, next week. Wednesday and/or Thursday Friday

Cool! Yes it was bright and WHITE with the sun and all. George1.6 and I were on the SW Rib. You guys must have topped out and descended before we got to the top. We didn't even hear you guys over there. Good times!! Did you see the people on Liberty Bell doing the firework show?

Yeah, I think that it would be bad to continually ratchet up the risk. A guy could still climb some nice mountains, but he should keep the risk within reasonable parameters. He should set an example of a life well lived.

I see that Billy was there too! He's get'n some climbs in!!! a mountain hard-goat in the making.

I wonder what the consensus was at 11200' camp as to the slide hazard and if the word was that the hazard was high, were they aware of that and did they choose to go on up despite of the hazard.

What routes?

A space blanket works and weighs very little.

That is a sweet pic!!

I'm reading The White Tower by James Ramsey Ullman. Any of you ever read this book? It is really good and while it is fiction it has many very accurate depictions of climbing. There is a character named Hein in the book and I believe that the author is actually referring to Heinrich Harrer. I imagine that most of the old seasoned climbers have read this. Ed

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