tomtom

No.

What system do you use for jugging fixed ropes? Do you typically use a backup beyond the two ascenders?

That fall/death occured on a static rope. Good point. The original topic was backing up ascenders for jugging fixed ropes, and fixed ropes may be static or dynamic, depending on the situation.

There is an important difference between the tibloc and the traxions. The traxions are spring loaded so that the teeth are pushed into the sheath (at least a little bit) at each step, and loading the devices pushed them in further. With the tiblocs, the teeth are just sitting lightly on the sheath, and with a sudden loading may not bite but simply surf down the surface of the sheath. Then it will eventually bite, shock loading the system. I've had this happen to me when using tiblocs as ascenders. That's why the instructions show pushing the teeth into the sheath before weighting. Tiblocs and traxions are not always interchangeable.

I'm not understanding this logic. People use toothed ascenders to ascend ropes all the time and you are saying this is dangerous? I have a pair of Petzl toothed ascenders that I use all the time, so I believe they can be used safely. Jugging puts a small load (body weight) on the ascender. No problem. But imagine this scenario. Let's say you're leading 120 ft up your a5 route on hooks and rurps. Your last piece blows and you rip half your gear. As soon as you stop swearing, you find yourself even with your belay, but 10 ft away because it is overhanging, and you notice that you are hanging by a string of manky rurps. Do you slap on your toothed ascenders and jug up to your highpoint? What if the string of rurps blow? There was that death in Zion in 2008 where the follower was jugging the haul line, 15 ft of rope slipped through the top anchor (improper rigging), and the force on catching caused the ascender to chop the rope. As discussed, jugging a fixed line with toothed ascenders is fine (no slack), but falling 15 feet is not. Many people have used a mini-traxion for top-rope soloing, but there is little slack in the system so you don't free fall very far. How much slack is too much? I don't know.

2, probably not, no, yes.

This is not a good idea. Tibloc Tech Info 1. Proper usage of a tibloc requires a biner with a barstock diameter of 10 to 12 mm. The biner pushes the rope into the teeth, so it has to be of the right size and shape to do so. 2. Proper usage of a tibloc requires that the teeth be set into the rope sheath before weighting. Typically this is done with the thumb. Not doing this risks ripping the sheath (and my experience supports this). 3. Falling on a toothed ascender is never a good idea. Fall far enough and the device will chop the rope. People use mini traxions for solo toproping, but the system is rigged so that there is little slack. You can do what you want, but I wouldn't recommend this system to others.

Your mom doesn't.

The Mountaineers Library in Seattle probably has what you are looking for. Give them a call.

No, just post your credit card # here.

Redux

I think the "28" next to "Dynafits" in the title represents the size.

Rule 11 is kinda dumb, too. The better microlights such as the Petzl e+lite or Princeton Tec Scout use lithium coin cells which aren't terribly effected by cold weather. I'd be skeptical of advice given by someone using alkaline batteries for ice climbing or other cold weather adventures. There are more intelligent options.

If Obama would stop wasting money in Afghanistan and Iraq, we wouldn't have a health care crisis. I'm just sayin'.

More angst from the fake.

Why did you choose the avatar name j_b? Simply to mock someone else?

mrpink huh???? how fucking original j_b's new avatar.

Get a job.

And we know how well 'secret' technology has secured our border with Mexico. and Canada.

Methheads feel the same way about your car.

cc.com is a tool of the government.

That's great news. Now you can go online and check real time road conditions at www.USFS.gov

How much more drift will you accept in a reliable beacon?

Sounds like the old beacons are unreliable.

There isn't a 'best' digital camera for climbing. It's all a matter of preferences and trade offs.