jesse_mason

I went up there not too long ago but defintely before we had this snow on the coast , maybe three weeks ago. I posted for cond. so do a seach. Any ways I have a lifted explorer and i made it to about 10 min walk within the parking lot, there was some rock fall that caused us to stop, it appears as only atv were going by, but these rocks would only take a few minutes to move aside, but the snow got deeper( up to this point road is easily accesed by a stock 4X4), and I was worried about wasting time, so we walked. Once out of the parking lot the snow is gone till foley lake which has quite a bit of snow. Hope that helps.

any one else with an update on field and golden climbing conditions? Or any thing else in the neighborrhood?

Ya its 404 now, thats what i took last term, now its only 1 day inthe field and still 3 mo's in the class room.

haha, he was my prof last term, nice guy but also a weirdo, terrible teacher, we talked about climbing a few times but never mentioned any FA's what was it?

All these books on how to climb and I missed that. but ya I never expected it to be that hot, as well i kinda hoped the snow woulda been firm from the night time but i geuss its just not staying cold at night either. Foley looked the same as when i climbed it on june 15/01 looks like its alpine rock season. thanks for the info Dru, I dont think the cond. on the north face of welch would have been much better, just too warm.

went for a jaunt up to the south ridge of welch, heres your current snow conditions: below williamson lake little to no snow, above williamson lake is a combination of knee deep slush transforming to knee deep powder with a 4 " thick crust. As well it felt like it was over 1million degrees outside. I think you would have to climb at night to get some decent snow conditions. Foley looked good. Cheers Jesse

any one been on Welch or Foley recently or in the area, just looking for some current conditions, pretty sure I know what its like out there but just seeing what any one else has to say. thanks jesse

I think this will answer your qeustion http://weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/scripts/citygen.pl?client=ECCDN_e&city=WKF last time i loked it was calling for temps around 12 c, ouch!! Cheers Jesse

Starting to look a little more reasonable!!! http://weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/scripts/citygen.pl?client=eccdn_e&city=WKF

Forrest writes "all ropes, whether single, double or twin - are capable of holding several falls all by themselves. " So 75' or a whole pitch it shouldnt matter, yes you will have more stretch. To make a rope lighter is to make it smaller, barring technical advances in lighter materials, I routinely take one half rope into the hills, mostly on easier climbs, but iam well aware of its diameter and its vulnerabilty to being chopped. Cheers Jesse

Forrest writes "all ropes, whether single, double or twin - are capable of holding several falls all by themselves. the thinner they are, the fewer they can catch, but that's ok because it's a redundant system. your single rope has to be "overkill" because if it fails, that's it." i think this pretty much answers your qeustion Cheers Jesse

MEC takes climbing gear back, No problems as long as it was not used. This is a rather new policy I think it started last year.

Tex- I have a mini disc player in my car and i have a portable one. Probably the best thing i have ever purchased i cant undersatand why they havent caught on on this side of the pond. While in switzerland this summer i noticed every one had them. any ways have fun, im bout to see what my MEC gift certificate is gonna buy me, merry hoho

I dont know any one who wears socks in their climbing shoes, so.. I dont know what your so worried about, the smell that eminates from your shoes can be a good weapon for troublesome partners, particularly if they wont get out of bed. Try freezing them thats how how i get the smell out of my poly pro, for at least 24 hours.

quote: I think its raining below 1300m and the face starts at sea level more or less... Try 3000m moving to 3200m tomorrow,ha, whistler is forcasting 15-20mm of rain for the alpine and they open 4 days

A shop that sells collector coins.

(If a rope wasn't necessary what did you rappel on?) Are you bored Dru, or is that a legitimate qeustion? What we rapped on was a ROPE, which we brought because the almighty dru said "Jesse bring a Rope!" We rapped because we dragged this thing all the way up there and figured we better go ahead and use it, we could have easily downclimbed around the gulley or downclimbed the gulley itself, not a big deal. I read your posts on blanshard on bivouac, you dont need a rope for the normal route on that either as well the gate opens at 7am and not 8 as you mention. Have you climbed the white dyke before? See ya around jesse

Well went for another go at it, came away empty handed again!! AD+ I doubt it, Soloing mid fifth on very exposed terrain 100m above the deck is slightly more commiting in my mind. The guide makes no mention of any technical rock at all, just shows a dotted line ascending the rock flank and says "ascend rock to galcier". The dotted line is no where near represnting the gulley which runs left to right and has some leftwards branches high up the wall( this has to be it since the only one i havent climbed yet).I once again was able to climb about 100m+ and get forced too far left too soon and end up UNDER the icefall and proceed to shit my pants. I climbed the rock flank twice, second time i went up a gullley further to the right and ended up being cliffed out up high again. The face i was climbing the first time had no bushes at all, just smooth crackless rock. The guide says 1.5-2hrs to base of route from end of forested road, am i reading this correct? It takes me 45 min to reach the moraines, 30min to reach the ice fall and 4 hours to solo up and down it twice. We actually laughed our heads off all day, 100m away from ice falling which was quite regular and soloing in our vegas and full packs we would often look at each other and say hey "just boulder it out", haha. talk to you later Don everyone else should give it a try its a classic jesse [ 09-25-2002, 06:03 PM: Message edited by: jesse mason ]

I doubt the road will be any where near 2wd this year. Some of the water bars were deeper than my truck and the road to the boulders has been thrashed by 2wd folks gunnin it to make it over some rocks, definetly alot worse than the last couple of years. I would be pretty damn stoked if the road was left open all winter. jesse

Yes I geuss they were planning on reopening Shannon Creek FSR, The road is open at the boulders. No need to squeak by either there is a nice fat opening, although you will need a high clearance 4 wheel drive after that. 40 min to the spur road, cant beat that. No idea how long it will stay that way, there is a big sign claiming the road is permanently closed at the turn off from Stawamus FSR.

Just wondering if any one has had any success on getting on to the glacier (recently)? Iam going back for a second try, first time last year I had some trouble ascending the rock flank, some rockfall and forgotten helmet sent me scurrying. Just wondering how far right of the gulley that descends beside the ice fall did you go. Basically did you go straight up or make a traverse from right to left up some lower angled rubbly rock. The rock I encountered was fairly steep, compact and unprotectable and I found myself climbing some difficult sections in my vegas. Thanks Jesse

Thanks dr. for the info. Jesse

There is no bergschrund in the gun sight gap as viewed from habrich, if any one is interested. Does any one know if the shannon creek FSR will be reopened? There was signs of them planning on putting in new culverts and cross ditches all the way to the turn off for Habrich and Sky Pilot. Thanks Jesse

salbrecher, that link is supposed to answer what for me? I can figure out how to get down pretty easy, but i would rather not lug a rope up there if i dont need one. thanks jesse

Has anyone climbed the white dyke on Edge peak. If so, did you need a rope, and which way did you descend? thanks Jesse