cappellini

i have also climbed the east face, but not quite to the summit...how did you summit via the east face? i got to the top of the ow and was turned back by the 15' of unprotected face climbing atop the block

the me-show or the flea market?

hey kids have to dream you know..its just part of becoming jaded

yea!!!...only we can talk s^&**t about kevin...ron however feels he can talk s@#$t about us...so ben why don't you fuck off ron...since obviously kevin doesn't let either of you f%^&*k him off anymore...and i'll just jerk off ron's crappy crackbolt jobs in the icicle when i find the time (or need hangers)....

nice...i would bet however briody has climbed that butress..he and others around here have climbed numerous "unreported routes" up there...i myself have climbed up there near your dots...nevertheless, nice place hugh?

stop wrecking this sport...as a beginner you still need to learn how to climb, which includes managing runouts at your ability level and placing gear accordingly...i learned how to climb too, but i did it the old fasion way...over time with respect for the grades....not the big mac and fries way...f%^&k your gym and your lame excuses...if you can't lead 5.7 with a little runout than you are not a 5.7 climber...irregardless of what you think don't be fooled..just because the clothing is cute doesn't mean climbing is for everyone... if you don't see gear within ten feet of those bolts you need to learn more about identifying gear placements

not sure about all the bolts you mention...ray saw some guys (sandahl and crew?) rapbolting on that face a couple years ago..and i also heard talk of a line by same party...hence the bolts...the only bolts (3) i've placed on prusik were on lead, standing in slings, dangling from crappy pins..none of which are at a belay...

saw off the bolts, if they grow back saw off the bolts, if they grow back saw off the bolts, if they grow back saw off the bolts....end of story your arguments are hollow...crack bolting is a form of defilement analogous to rape...the rock is inocent and deserving of respect...heinous acts require a reaction no matter how inconvenient it may seem. here is a graffic analogy for your enlightenment...if someone rapes a child should everyone who wants to rape children continue to rape that child? i mean, after all the damage has been done, just keep raping that child, cuz after all some sick f%%$@k is gonna have fun...why bother punishing the perpetrator and attempting to heal the mind of the victim...clearly this is wrong.....eventually the sickness would spread from child to child, or as we've seen locally from crag to crag...until our culture has been reduced to a vile selfindulgence, not just a hedonistic pursuit. removing the defilement is the swiftest form of punishment we have for the perpetrators of crack bolting...prison and its associated abuses toward rapists would be more fitting, however we don't have that option... there is never a justification for bolting over gear..a runout by definition is scary but not life threatening, and a skilled leader can easily protect those pitches within reason..runout yes, life threatening no...not every climb should be chiseled down to the lowest common denominator...go back to the gym or develope your skills appropriately before venturing outside..there is more to climbing than monkey tricks.... "one day the rain's gonna come and wash away all this filth" taxi driver

this crag is actually an old traditional practice area. all of the irresponsible bolting was done overtop the existing lines....and actually, the "real" start would be lower down on the slabs, closer to the road, above the d.silly tr....the entire butress is climbed easily without any of the retro bolt garbage (in fact all bolts are quite close to excellent gear placements)...the descent is a simple walk off, making absolutely no need for the ridiculous convenience anchors which also appeared in recent years. this buttress has been raped by unscrupulous crack bolters and hippocrits and all of this garbage should be removed.

would be great to consolidate beta, i liked that place..someone get a better picture...i'll pencil in what dirty refered to "That C Shit", 5.10c1(d.cappellini,p.hurst,e.werhley,2004?)...we all know layton will gleefully cough up beta for he and rat...yoder et all still a f$%^&ing mystery...

the red line is wrong near the top, a little closer to the prow....no it is not rocket peak, rocket is a boulder to the east

the last pitch you climbed (to the top of the pilar) is part of the joust...my unfinished line (an old obsession from a stronger time), which climbs absolutely beutifull shit (its around the butt toe (lft) from the burgerstand) up to the pilar top below headwall, its 5.11C1 d.cappellini, b.stanton, 1998, to here... for reference joust starts right of lady godiva route in the pretty lfc and sweeps up and leftward to share a belay flake and a short bit with the lady godiva route on the second pitch, blast straight up through the giant roof and up a few more pitches to the pilar top.... if anyone is looking to try it, the joust has not been completed past the overhanging joust shaped offwidth on the upper headwall (5.10A1 from pilar top into the ow, d.cappellini, jamie somebody who made me bail cuz he was scared of the dark, 2000)...should have been finished that day...i did lower down from the summit to retrieve gear and tr'd from below the ow back to the summit, 5.11 ow, 5.10 above it. still looking to finish this line since i already invested a lot of time and some fixed gear, just need a worthy pulse...er, i mean partner.....

i'll weigh in since rat and matt have confused me, and i was there...three distinct butress pilars on the wall; left goes to a seperate lower summit tower, center which we climbed goes to the true summit, the right one looks good but peters out on an insignificant bump really low on the mt. so i'm still wondering..did matt climb the butress we climbed or not? sure looked as if someone had excavated a few pins and maybe a cam or two...the buttress offered many options so an intertwined previous ascent seemed likely...hard to say most importantly the bill and peg stark thing rings irony with our ascent....rolfs last pitch (an easily avoidable sharp arete between two grassy low angled gullies) we refered to as the "dirty peggy" pitch. with reference to the ever loving black lichen and how he pegged the contrivometer by sticking to the arete rather than simply wondering unroped up either gully. this rapidly devolved into a reference to the lovely peggy flemming and just how contrived figure skating is, like rolfs pitch...and than of course true to form we moved on to the subject of katarina witt...still blissing on that discussion... never the less for the record, our reference to the "dirty peggy" pitch has nothing to do with mrs. stark, although it seems her name leaked into our rotting minds but couldn't escape mutation. however the pantera pete pitch on the lower bong has everything to do with the camera happy dirty harry....

temps are fine in the am.....does anyone else live around here with a little weekday time off? 509 293 2177

looking for pulses to hike 3-4 hours uphill and climb obvious, steep, plumb lines...must be willing to take risk, suck it up, and simply go your 60 meters and shut the fuck up...must also be willing to have a great time badmouthing anyone who is or isn't present....i prefer to do it all in a day so i can go home and enjoy fine wine, garden fresh organic fruits and vegetables, fresh grilled meat and fish, and sleep in my own bed with my lovely wife...but i'll sleep outside in the dirt and and carry good food for your sorry ass if i have to...don't send a resume since i don't care how rad you think you are, from my experience everyone seems to cry, whine, and avoid the best line anyway...

you can actually see the last two piches from left side of rubble ramp in the photo...

the box varies from 10-40 ft across

erik and i climbed the box on the north face...it alternates back and forth between the r & l facing corners (l,r,l, 2p 60m each) with a bit of deviation from that theme to regain the feature after crossing the diagonal rubble ramp (look for the nice fingers 30 ft up)..than r,l,r in the box to the crack finishing at the summit block (2p)..one of the best ive done, all but the first pitch contain 10spots...the holds are clean and any easy trundles have been bagged..sorry no fixed gear

its called, "the exhumed classics"..its with the publisher now..look for rat's "pantera pete" pitch on the cover

how bout a retainer

one more idea...a guide that somehow frequently includes pete's name...like what dirty suggests

what about a guide to the first crowbar ascent opportunities appearing throughout wa, particularly in the icicle..removing thoughtless bolts on lead while free climbing with adequate natural and gear protection..now there's a necessary evolution pathway for our sport... or maybe a guide to all the free fixed hardware easily removable while protected by the adjacent, natural or gear protection, there's hundreds of dollars worth of this junk littering the icicle alone, just waiting for an industrious sohl...like the unsung hero (or should i say "arshole" who has removed some of the more tacky botchjobs around here...thank you and keep abusing whatever substance motivates such righteous behavior)... or how bout a guide to the neglected classics which have now been resurected from the filth and down bolted, disregarding the existing protection and the boldness of the original ascent.. ive got it, a guide to all mike's routes with a correction factor for exaggerations, grade inflation, and the general fiction in his descriptions making them so enduring..like that super sick 5.10+ grade IV acid baby line he reported, which actually took 3 (1 lame, 1 old, and 1 fat) guys a mere half day from the car on their ground up questionable fa..hmmm i would be happy to contribute to any of these

don't take it personal...this site is full of shit therefore we are....they're boulders..fairly insignificant summits..so woopy if there's bolts on top...for a 6 yr old those boulders are huge, let em top rope..it s not like someone grid bolted your bolder...around here people are downbolting faces that have already been climbed with ample traditional protection..bolts next to gear...i see it regularly..disgrace..if the place feels special to you and the bolts offend you...remove them..i would if i felt that way about your boulder field and wanted to waste my time roremoving bolts

these are boulders with top rope anchors....why would you chop them? i'm sure you and your friends use stacks of humping pads for landings...this is no different than top roping...if the boulders do not have natural or gear anchors available on top than the bolts seem quite justified...i also would not claim to be responsible for fa's on boulders, i mean really...you have no idea who may have climbed those boulders before you, they make great perches for launching knapped projectiles into big game...get my drift...besides, in the northwest dirt comes back quite quickly..where i live they have written a guide book with names, fa's, etc about countless boulders that i had climbed on previous to their claims...i as they, was surely not the first, nevertheless like you they claim fa's and other such nonsense...like someone else said "don't use them"...

what kind of car do the towers mount on?