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G-spotter

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Everything posted by G-spotter

  1. I guess drytooling smith tuft is right out?
  2. So let's say a guy wants to use skis to approach climbs but climb in mountain boots not ski boots. Has anyone ever successfully retrofitted the holes for tech bindings into an existing non-ski boot? Are there cobblers that can do this? Like if one could get an old pair of Koflachs or something and then get a new sole put on that takes tech bindings for modern AT skis? Seems like it might be cheaper than spending $1000 for the dead bird ski boots that purport to climb like climbing boots.
  3. https://www.squamishchief.com/discover-squamish/human-feces-laced-with-thc-sickens-squamish-dogs-1.23512057?fbclid=IwAR0XAte-3VaV2yCCz3bnkxjFSsSzScxGa9DzmvthfThqsfXNog6T93wZ1gQ
  4. Version 13 now! KMZ, KML, and PDF. New Ice Climbs In SW BC Version 13.pdf West Coast Ice Climbs.kml West Coast Ice Climbs.kmz
  5. snowline's down to around 1000 m now but still Whister's worst opening day in 15 years
  6. Looks like rain at Coq Pass right now http://images.drivebc.ca/bchighwaycam/pub/html/www/685.html
  7. well, it goes from brittle to ductile at a depth of ~50m. you need 50m of ice thickness to flow, and so most crevasses are 50m or less deep because that's the brittle fracture depth. i don' t think that's what the OP observed though.
  8. However, in practice, glacial ice does change in density with increasing pressure https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=13&ved=2ahUKEwi3zrrhpNfeAhULwFQKHQG8BdkQFjAMegQIBxAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.igsoc.org%2Fjournal%2F3%2F27%2Figs_journal_vol03_issue027_pg568-573.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1xN96PcWhXuAEe_YNQByYE
  9. Well, if you want to get technical, the answer isn't really "density" as much as it is "stress and strain". Which is pressure dependent. Higher pressure ice is harder and deforms less. This is why crevasses have a maximum depth. http://www.antarcticglaciers.org/modern-glaciers/glacier-flow-2/glacier-flow-ii-stress-and-strain/
  10. Ice density = f (temperature, pressure, porosity, time)
  11. I'm still hoping JosephH will say that's not real climbing and predict that he can't OS some shitty Beacon 5.11
  12. In terms of unrepeated routes, iirc, Buckshot and Wild Game on Buck NF have no repeats? And those are big, not like Intravenous which while looking cool is only a couple pitches long?
  13. You need to pay more attention dude. N Face Couloir gets lapped. Maybe not weekly though.
  14. OS of Scarface and White Wedding, 2nd ascent of Assassin so far... but is he gonna visit Beacon? That's the real question.
  15. Nothin' says hasbeen chestbeating like posting about how long it's been since you put up a route with no repeats since. Maybe your route just sucked.
  16. If the snow is soft you're gonna stop no matter what, and if it's hard you might break your skis practicing. So use some garbage skis to practice.
  17. Also I don't think x-all mountains come with an adze but honestly you rarely need an adze anyway.
  18. Quark or X-All Mountain. Quarks self-arrest and plunge better. X-all mountains are lighter.
  19. https://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/forum/17-the-gear-critic/
  20. Great Bear Snowshed on the Coquihalla
  21. Once weed was legalized the potential for Muir on Saturday flamewars dropped way, way down. Also, some of the older trolls are now senile or mummified, which restricts their ability to post.
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