KeithKSchultz

I already gave up climbing for TV. Except when Bay Watch isn't on. Then I get online and tell lies like everybody else.

It doesn't hurt to ask....... Anyone got a pair of Dynafit boots they want to sell? Size 10.5 or 11. I would probably go for the whole package if you have it. keith.schultz@premera.com

I used to climb ice a lot. What a great way to get off when the weather won't let you climb rock. Then I got married which really didn't change my inner calm much since she was an adult (I swear) and knew she was marrying a climber. But then she got pregnant (I still assume I am the father) and my world of ice came crumbling down around my ears. The inherent danger was only too true when I had to face children of climbers who died. Climbers I knew and trusted. In December of 1977 I had just completed a traverse of the Bob Marshall Wilderness on skis. We took our ice tools. We climbed everything we could find. Two of us were standing on the rim of the gorge of the North Fork of the Blackfoot falls scoping out lines when the unimaginable happened. The entire 100 foot 25 foot diameter column of ice cracked, snapped, and collapsed into the pool below. The sound was deafening and the carnage was just incredible. The pool was mostly frozen over and the chunks of ice that pelted the walls on all sides dislodged large rocks and soaked everything in a matter of 4 or 5 seconds. Twenty minutes later we would have been on it. So much for that first ascent. Sure it's safer now. But you'll be just as dead when your luck sucks.

specialed, Yes, I've done some other routes in the Bitterroot. I grew up in Missoula and went to college there. If it weren't for the Bitterroots I probably would have gone to Boulder or Arizona state. It was a great time to be a climber in Missoula. It was a wide open area with only the most obvious lines having been done. We used to go out half the time and just wander up to a good looking line and give it a try. When Wild Country friends came out it was an ongoing party. Lots more lines started getting done. Bruce Anderson and I did the first ascent of Modern Home Environment on Nez Pierce spire up Blodgett but used aid in several places. I would like to see someone do the blank wall off the tower below the bivy ledge. Being the first one out through the upper roof was a rush. Bruce and I were the first to do the Red Tower too. Bruce was really serious. Be careful on the routes with his name on them. Mike Scott and I did the only complete route I know of on the Bear Creek wall. Morning Thunder. There were always people doing new crags. There are several other canyons out there that are full of crags that no one puts in the guide books because you have to hike a mile or two. Then the Lolo domes were found and the Bitterroots kind of got left to a few of us trad climbers. What did you do in the Bitterrots? If you know of North Trapper you must have gotten out a bit.

Liberty Ridge or Direct North Ridge of Stuart or the Nose or North Face of North Trapper. Alex Lowe or Mallory. Cassin Ridge, Direct NW Face of Half Dome.

Looking for some bindings that will fit my Koflak Atrius boots. Anything hinged with a stiff toe to heal. Contact me at KeithCarolyn@msn.com or keith.schultz@premera.com

I've done it both ways. The traverse descent is easier because you are so much closer to the pavement that way. But I love spending time on Liberty Ridge and with skiis the descent is a blast. Watch for hard ice on the ridge and gapers on the Carbon. I give it a 50/50.

I once had a pair of Fire's that lasted trough 5 girl friends. If the shoe fits......... The fifth one abscounded with them. No sense of environmental ethics.

OK. It sucks but I am the "finest". June 1978, The Valley, 5.8 offwidth variation on Royal Arches Direct. Placed pro up to 25' and ran out of big pieces. Looking up, I spotted the 10 hex hammered in 30' up. "No problem". Boogied right up and was pulling off a sling when I popped. I slipped down a ways, spun around just in time to slam against the 80 degree section and take 2" swathes of skin off both forearms. Bounced out away from the wall and saw a bush/tree coming at me at a high rate of spead. Remembered the "SRA Readers" from grade school and a story in there about a young sailor who fell from the rigging of a tall ship. As He fell he remembered being told a story about an old salt who did the same stupid stunt and went limp (whole body) right before he hit the deck. Walked away. Walked away. Walked away. I also layed out flat as I went through the bush/tree and had an "out of body" experience as I watched myself come down through the foliage. When I came back to conciousness, I was coming down from the bounce and heading off the ledge. I reached up and grabbed the rope with both hands and stopped myself from rasping over the rounded edge. There was a four foot loop of rope hanging below me. All told, I had two nasty rasberries on my forearms, four blisters on my fingers where I grabbed the rope, and one short gash (the only scar) on my knee from hitting the rasp when I stopped. My belayer was in shock. I landed right in front of him where he was sitting and bounced higher than his head. And the Moral of the story is.................

Early one December morning in Hidden Rock Campground, a nice little old lady was walking around the loop in search of her pet 'Fifi' who one must assume was a poodle. Apparently not realizing the nature of her National Monument experience, she was rather voiciferously calling for 'Fifi' and enticing her with all mention of poodle delights to no avail.From what I heard, I can only ussume that it was a climber whose name I will not mention, who finally responded with a tender FYI."Your F---ING dog got eaten by coyotes lady. Now will you shut up and let us sleep?!" Winter mornings can be very quiet in Joshua Tree.

Oh. Are you suposed to wear descent shoes there?

Right on Andy! I didn't even know Index was an issue. Thanks. Keith

Perfect. Thank you! Keith

Great advice. It is not a teaching/learning environment. Everyone is well trained and very experienced. We are getting together to climb together because not everyone has met everyone else on the team and we don't want to find out about personality problems on Denali. We are hoping to summit. I will look at Gib ledges. Thanks. The trip to Ingraham flats would have been to set up for the summit in a place that has lots of big crevasses. I have told everyone on the team that avalanche danger is the most likely reason we would not summit. That is why we would look for a crevasse lower down. Steep walls are great and all but there's something more exciting and realistic about being in a crevasse while practicing crevasse extraction techniques. If anyone has skied down by the frying pan glacier or elsewhere and noticed a clearly visible crevasse that would be easy to find in marginal conditions, please let me know.Thanks!Keith

Hikerwa,Thanks for the hot tip. I will be listening. I have a Perception Overflow for sale for $400. Also a pair of booties with felt soles, size 11 for $25. Happy surfing!Keith

I'am looking for a good crevasse to throw myself into near Paradise Feb 15-17. Some friends are flying in from all parts and we are practicing for Denali. If you have been up there recently and can think of a good place to point me, I would appreciate it. There's a good chance that all we'll see is the fog on our goggles so a general location by map coordinates would be especially nice. We are not an organized club and would be happy to share whatever crevasse we find. If weather permits, we will go up to Ingraham flats and hopefully even summit. But most likely it will be a slog in the fog to a cold hole. Keith

Just a vague memory but........ Six or so pitches up a thunderstorm from the north arrives. Wind, lightning and pouring rain drove us into a nearby cave (maybe the gallery cave) which seemed more like a microwave oven with all the electrical action going by. This story reminds me of something that happened on El Cap about 20+ years ago. I don't remember the details, maybe someone can help me out, But a few climbers were hiding from lightning in a cave somewhere on the wall when a bolt came down the crack that formed the cave. One guy was jolted pretty hard and fell backwards off the wall while clipped only to the end of a 150' rope. He popped a few anchors and I think pulled another guy off. The survivor(s?) had to be rescued.Electricity travels in realativly straight lines and seeks the path of least resistence which is the path with the most positively charged ions such as metals or conductive gasses. A crack full of air is likely to be more conductive than granite especially with a little sodium mixed in. If you are going to hide from lightning in a cave, don't fart, belch or breath and you will probably be OK.

Got a Parbat 2nd hand. Like new. Thanks!

Gotsum. Thanks!

Daisy is right. Take the whole family to Yosemite and learn to climb on a user friendly dome. Leavenworth has a lot of user friendly domes too.

Regardless of which method you choose, make a few thousand placements somewhere anywhere, before you get on the sharp end. When you are to the point where you feel you know wether or not the piece is going to hold (in granite anyway)you can start leading. Before that you are just playing with your own head. Index is steep and there are not many TR oportunities. But once you get to the point where you are ready to lead on aid, Index is crack city and the granite is bombproof. If you can't get anywhere, send me a PM.

Only an east coaster on a schedule would get testy when you save his life. I was up on Mcdonald peak in the Missions in Montana one December when a low pressure system moved in and dumped 3 ft with winds at about 35. Perfect slab setup on a styrofoam base. My east coast buddy wanted to go for it and got really bent when I persisted in not going out there. he finally talked me into going up to the top of Sheeps Head which is on the ridge up to McDonald. Once we got up there he said we might as well keep going. I said OK but for this first part off the rock, I'll belay you. He begrudgingly waited for me to set three bomber anchors and then headed out into slabsville. It cut loose before he was 30 ft out and I thought I was going to get pulled off. It ripped the rope through my overmit and pulled me onto my hip hard. When the avalanche finally passed him by he was bruised but not injured. He came back up to where I was and said " There. Now its gone. Let's go." I told him to F off and he never climbed with me again. That's probably why I'm still alive. Gotta hand it to that guy though. He is still alive and still an asshole. Persistence counts.

Keep it in a sack. Kids are the real problem. Not that I don't prefer to give them little buggers what they deserve mind you. It just takes a whole shitload of time. Watch your mags though. Olivia is a natural on skiis and topropes. I've already warned her about guys who climb too much. Her mother just nods.

Thanks. What is "acc clubhouse in canmore"?

Who is team Gander Mountain?