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erden

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Everything posted by erden

  1. So here I am working away on my laptop with the TV in the background. I glance up to see this guy towing a sled in a blizzard, no partners, walking along a crevasse. There is a shot of him walking on the edge with camera viewpoint from within the crevasse. THEN: he walks up to an wall of glacier ice and swings his ice tool on the ice. It is one of those Black Diamond straight shaft jobs. It has an adze on it. The kicker is that he is throwing the adze end of the tool on the ice, giving the impression that he will now be climbing up that ice. And I had been swinging the pick all this time. Bummer, no wonder I have trouble going up steep stuff It is a Lexus commercial. Erden.
  2. As for REI rope straightener, best one is by the corner at the Seattle REI where they have a mechanical gizmo to wrap long lengths of rope or webbing into a coil as they are measured and cut to length. It has a lever that makes a wheel out of the arms of the gizmo, then with another pull of the lever, the arms come down, making it easy to remove the newly formed coil. Put your new rope on that gizmo, then uncoil pulling one end again tangentially while the rope is still on that thing... The folks at REI should let you use the gizmo thing, no problem. You will get it done in now time. Erden.
  3. Rope is coiled into a loop on a wheel, cut to length then cinched with labels and such for sale. If you remove the labels, then the knot holding it in place, and start pulling one end of the rope out of the coil, you will introduce one full twist to the rope for each coil you undo until the rope is fully uncoiled (this would be a pull along the central axis of the coil). With use you may remove some of that, but while it goes through belay devices, the sheath will likely move w.r.t. the core, making the twisty mess a permanent feature of the rope at hand, regardless of brand. Better way is: have a friend help you, put your arms from either side into the coil and simulate a wheel in front of you. Have your friend pull on one end of the rope pulling it tangentially to the coil, while you simulate a turning wheel with your forearms undoing the coil, kinda like basketball referee motioning for travel (I think - I have not watched basketball in ages!). That will introduce no twists in the rope, hence no kinks later. I should take a picture of this, easier that way; I have a friend who just got a rope and needs to do just that... Erden.
  4. Man rides avalanche feet first... He was one lucky man! Erden.
  5. Understood. I think I will still point out a gear loop tie/clip in to my partner and make him/her aware. It will be up to that person to decide how to proceed based on the manufacturer's instructions. Erden.
  6. Are there any harnesses made out there with gear loops strong enough to use as tie in points for personal anchors? Someone is arguing that such harnesses are out there available on the market. Sounds like a dangerous proposition to test... Any ideas in favor of this guy? Else, I will dismiss his input. Erden.
  7. * when are you going to be in Turkey? * how long are you staying? * what kind of skiing do you want to do? backcountry? downhill? * what kind of climbing do you want to do? peak bagging? big wall? volcanos? trekking? Lemmeno, I may be able to point in the right direction. There are volcanoes in eastern and south central Turkey. Erciyes is 3915m, Ararat is 5165m, Suphan is 4058m. Ararat has been approached/climbed by touring skis, but it does not offer ski lifts. In south central Turkey, there is the Aladaglar mtn range that offers many options trekking or walls. Eastern Black Sea coast has peaks up to 4400m that would offer great hiking up to the mountains, much like the PNW. Eastern Turkey has some great resorts at Palandoken mtns near Erzurum and an upn coming area with huge drops near Sarikamis. South western Turkey has plenty of limestone climbing near the Mediterranean. See regions under rockclimbing.com for options. Erden.
  8. A version of Figger_Eight's suggestion of placing a butterfly knot is to actually place more than one butterfly knot at regular intervals between the two climbers. In this scenario, the lead climber who is the more experienced one (the guide perhaps) is doing the route finding. He counts on the second climber to catch him in case of a crevasse fall. The knots in between teh two dig into the snow as the rope cuts the lip of the crevasse, hence taking up some of the tension from the second (the client). The client holds his position, while the guide helps himself out of the crevasse. There is not an expectation on the second to be hauling the lead climber in this case. Erden.
  9. Hang in there, there is bound to be some useful info devulged soon Erden.
  10. I like this thread of discussion... On Denali we used XGK stoves. We were having trouble with them at the 17,200ft, the high camp. Our stove would just not keep the flame going and would put itself out. It was not too terribly cold and we were preheating the nozzle and the burner. Parts were well maintained, so that was not an issue. Then, we received a suggestion from the Rednecks (Ryland Moore and Pete A) that keeping the bottle pressure low and pumping the stove just enough to keep the fuel flowing solves the problem. That suggestion worked, even though it meant a longer time with the kitchen duties, and more babysitting. I speculate that this solution had to do with the adiabatic expansion of the compressed fuel, quickly cooling itself/burner, putting the flame out. Lower pressure meant slower escape from the nozzle??? Physicists will no doubt have an explanation... What's clear is that I will have to call high altitude climber friends to hear their solutions before I head out to higher elevations. White gas or canister, then which type of canister, etc... Erden.
  11. Thank you Oly. Going back to the web site, I noticed that I did use the expression "self-sufficiency" in Mission Statement of Around-n-Over. My bad... I will be back to Seattle on January 1st, and I am looking forward to seeing all the friends again. Best, Erden.
  12. You are acting like a politician. In your haste to argue, you are creating new standards. You are the one using the expression "self-sufficiency." There is not a place on the web site that this expression is used. I never used that terminology. Again, the words are "self propelled," and "human powered" - as long as my body moves across the globe under my own power, my conscience is clear. I did not bring any food for the mountain on my bike between Seattle and Talkeetna. I bought the food and fuel that I needed along the way. I towed in from Talkeetna what I thought was 18 days of food for me from the food that the team brought, or else I would have bought, which turned out to be less due to miscommunication. We went through all of the food inluding my reserves by the time we arrived at the base camp 67 miles away on foot. We received additional food and fuel at the base camp when two other teammates joined in to make the team a total of five. Later on the mountain at the 11k camp, we scored a cache of food and fuel from returning Bothel Fire Dept climbers when it turned out that somehow the team food cache was less than anticipated. We ended up giving away three cans of fuel and bunch of food on the way down after we completed the climb. Satisfied? Erden.
  13. I had a wedding to get to. I have my priorities. This is old news, written up all over Around-n-Over web site, no need to bring up stale stuff to be cute. Instead try to keep up with what I am up to now... Since I say that I did, and you say that you do not think that I did, you are essentially calling me a LIAR. I did not take a rope, or an expedition tent which are team gear. The rest I did. You are missing the whole point in your drivel. My position has always been that what I do is not extraordinary, but out of the ordinary. Anyone can do what I do if they make the necessary choices, hence the attraction. If you cannot wrap your mind around this, I cannot help you. Seven Summits was somebody else's dream and it has been done times over. You are welcome to try them when you choose to get off your couch and show some initiative at some point. I go away for 3,500 miles and cc.com is taken over by commies. WTF??? This is the first time that I have been dissed for my disposable income. I will wear that insult as a badge of honor!!! As for the self salesmanship, this is the fricken USA and some of us better get used to it. Every word that comes out of our mouths is selling our ideas, our dreams and our visions. You are not fairing so well Chestbeater. You pay your way to success sometimes. My way was to cash out my 401k, liquidate my life savings, sell our condo with my wife to downsize our mortgage commitments by moving into a cheaper townhome, and taking out a home equity loan. That is the disposable income that you are talking about Chestbeater. While beancounters at the so-called-potential-sponsors are deciding their ROI on funding they may commit to my journey, I have chosen to bet on myself when no one else would. How much are you betting Chestbeater? Catbirseat is my friend, he believes in me, and he stands up for me when necessary. He does not see me as a hero, instead as someone with a kindred spirit, and one of like minds. I measure a friend by whether he stands up in the crowd to say a good word or two when I am not there, maybe 3,500 miles away. How many friends do you have, Chestbeater? The words are "self-propelled" meaning I will be the one rowing it, and not another person. Also "human-powered" meaning that the boat will not have engines or sails. I have never used the words "unassisted." Where TF does building the boat enter this equation? Can you with a straight face stand in front of Lance Armstrong and say: "sir your five TDF wins are invalid because you did not build your own bike?" Why would you diss one of our own, and not show an effort to support and build one another up? Why is cc.com full of cynics? You say that you shook my hand and congratulated me, and then you turn around and push these falsehoods behind my back, while I am 3,500 miles away? I am embarrassed for you, how about you? BTW - the cost of the boat will be about $50k when all is said and done. Million dollars would pay for my educational budget over the next six years, and 1/2 million gets me around the world and on top of the summits. How about putting your money where your mouth is Mr. Chestbeater? Arbitrary? Nothing arbitrary about it. The primary goal is to circumnavigate the globe by human power. This will be Miami to Miami westbound. The summits are added as a tribute to Göran, each to be reached sea-to-summit Göran style upon landfall on each of the six continents along the way. Vinson is out of the way, Antarctica is not on the circumnavigation route. Paths on the oceans are based on ocean currents and trade winds. This is what I drew on the map and I am executing it in order. Why is this so hard to grasp? Isn't this my journey after all? I tell students that opinions of others are to be acknowledged but not to control their destiny. Opinions of naysayers, detractors and doubters will not stop me from progressing. I say watch and learn, Chestbeater, you might grow in the process... Erden.
  14. Funny I should think to surf cc.com and then find this thread Check out: Man passes through Colorado on human powered round-the-world journey which is the KUSA article, and it has the TV spot also. The spot is produced from * footage that KING5 had captured in January 2003 on the day before my departure from Seattle, * footage that the NBC affiliate in Anchorage had captured in April 2003 on the day that I arrived there, and * footage that KUSA captured on Thursday during my presentation at the Adams City High School. I hope that you enjoy it. I am officially done with the Rockies as of Wednesday when I arrived at Idaho Springs, CO. My bike was falling apart and it is at the Boulder REI now receiving a new set of derailleurs, a new rear wheel and a new chain. I will receive the bike back tomorrow, and hope to start riding again from Idaho Springs on Sunday. We made good use of the down time in Boulder by visiting four schools and holding a presentation at the Boulder REI. From here on, the ride should be fairly flat and much warmer. I came over the Rabbit Ears and Berthoud passes on Rt 40 in my climbing boots, all bundled up in clothing. Received a pounding of snow and blizzard conditions at the Rabbit Ears. I am in Boulder now staying with my climbing buddy Matt, and we were running air conditioning in the car today while driving around. What a contrast! I look forward to riding in shorts for a little while longer from here... Cheers, Erden. Mile 1,632
  15. Darn, Ivan, I had not considered the possibility of getting pulled by a shark traveling in the same direction. Bummer, maybe I will have to cut bait then? I mean, what would the critics say? So, before starting to fish, I should take a GPS reading. In the eventuality of a shark pulling me, I can then return back, NOT! I think I can fess up and count that as part of the experience/elements. In fact that would make a pretty damn good story: "there I was hanging on for dear life not to be pulled out of my boat with my last hook in the middle of the ocean surrounded by mama and papa sharks circling when I had their baby on my line..." Fun stuff I did read Kon Tiki, did not see the movie though. I saw the pictures of them grabbing the sharks by the tail which seemed to handle just like a tennis racket. With the rough shark skin, I think they mentioned that the grip was very strong as well. I probably will not want to pull in a shark unless I can prove to myself that I can keep the meat long enough to consume it all. I would hate to waste the whole animal unless I am desparate. I will go with smaller fish, and mostly do that out of boredom and for variety, I think. Mostly I will eat what is on board. All the food that I take will be tested ahead of time so that if I soak it enough under the sun in a dark cup, the food will become edible. This is in case I run out of fuel, or stove breaks down, whatever. Thank you for the suggestions guys. Erden.
  16. "ballslappers" OUCH. I will be careful. In fact, I should print your post and tape it on the roof of the cabin in the boat! Erden.
  17. I know sharks when I see them, the rest are grouped under fish, so there. I never said I knew my fish, that may have to change though Thanks for the tips on the gear. I need to rig the boat so the rod is fixed to the side. I can row and tend to the rod when a fish bites. I have to make sure that I don't catch something bigger than I can handle!!! Erden.
  18. I will take about 100 days worth of food on board, consisting mostly of freeze dried stuff. The boat will have a cooking stove with a gimbal. As the boat rocks, the weighted gimbal will try to keep the food from sloshing in the pan. I will have protein supplements, recovery drinks, and some variety on board to keep myself motivated. It will be more a mental challenge than a physical one to continue on in solitude on the oceans, so a little treat here'n there with the food will go a long ways. I will take a fishing rod for an occasional catch, perhaps also a spear gun to score a dorado or two. The boat moves so slowly on the ocean that fish take it as a stationary object, algea have time to grow on it, and barnacle larvae latch on. It becomes a virtual zoo under the boat that requires regular scrubbing by getting under the boat (sharks are a threat then ) to keep the boat from slowing down with the drag. The stuff growing on the bottom attracts fish which attract bigger fish. Doratos are huge, four feet long, a type of tuna I believe. I can sun dry or cook the fish - sushie is always an option. Some rowers avoid hooks or knives on board with the logic that any cut is a potential end to their voyage. I think I will just be careful. I have had my share of crabby days and negative attitude, and on occasion still do. I am 43 and still growing. I have learned to recognize this, and I am man enough to apologize. We are all on the stage, in the first act before the curtains come down. We all do this without rehearsal. I hold no grudges, I forgive, I forget, I move on. I also hope that everyone else feels the same way about my transgressions. Peace. Erden.
  19. Thank you Dru. The rowing is because: 1. One cannot safely travel from Panama Canal south toward Columbia in the human powered sense. There are no roads and the only paths available through rain forests are being used by drug runners. These may also not be suitable for a bike, did not even investigate. Normal procedure is to get to Panama and then to take a boat to NE Columbia, then to continue the ride, which takes away style points from the human powered thing... 2. The primary goal is to circumnavigate by human power. This will be done rowing from Miami to Miami. The boat will wait for me while I travel to the high summit upon landfall. The summits are secondary, they are the tribute, they will be nice to do. They also require serious funding and logistics. I have the boat, I can keep going. If we do not have sponsors to cover, say, the costs of Everest then I will touch land in India, then replenish the boat and press on rowing. If between Panama and Ecuador, the winds take me west, and that is not unlikely, and I can't pull back into land, then I will skip Aconcagua and press on across the Pacific. It is all relative. I hope this answers your question. Erden. ----------------------- P.S. I post here because there is a historical link behind cc.com and this journey. I have friends here who have come to know me under unfortunate circumstances. My posts are intended for old friends, and new friends. The rest can put me on their ignore list, and I will not take it personally. There is always the spray forum, too... I am sorry that I do not boulder, nor have the time for the "proverbial 60 meters" at this time until I carry out this commitment which will go on through 2010. I no longer value activities that rely on contests over numbers or that require beating another person over the head to gain recognition. Competition for grades no longer hold any meaning for me, they are only a measure of my fitness when I care to keep a tab on my health. It is the journey, and that gains more meaning when shared. I will provide a TR when and if I return from this journey, and that is expected of any of us who wants to share. What I am promoting is the promise of a TR.
  20. Here is some info on the obscure pastime of Ocean Rowing. Enjoy, Erden.
  21. It will be long - think How about if I serve it as regular dispatches also mirrored on the Around-n-Over site. Sign up to our yahoo! group, then you will get the dispatches in your inbox. To sign up send an email around-n-over-subscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=SUBSCRIBE. My resting heart rate will go down to low forties again Erden.
  22. I am counting on it. This 24/7 non-stop chase of things to do before I leave will not end until I get on the road. I need my sanity again Erden.
  23. Well, if any of you are skipping the Rope Up, say if it rains like last year, Seattle Vertical World is offering their gym to us for a send off party on Saturday Oct 2 at 7:00 pm. The following morning, I will be leaving by bicycle from Seattle to Miami as the first phase of the trip to Aconcagua. Then in late February-early March, I will row from Miami to Ecuador via the Panama Canal. From there, I will bike to Argentina to climb Aconcagua with my friends. I will bring the boat to Seattle Vertical World after 5:00 pm (crossing our fingers that the container will arrive on time!). Come for pizza, short presentation, show and tell as long as you guys like -- Event Flier The goal will be to make new friends and to connect with the old ones. Suggested donation of $5 to cover the pizza. Larger donations will get a t-shirt, listing on the sponsors list and inclusion in the boat register depending on the amount. So the more the merrier, bring your friends, especially if you know any school teachers who will want to take this to their students! Sunday 7:00 am, I am taking off by bike from Pocock Rowing Center, directions are on the web site in the calendar. If you are in town, come ride with me out of town on Sunday. See you soon. Erden.
  24. For Frank -- In Memoriam -- Please consider donating to Room to Read as was the wish of the family. Frank and Teresa had dreamed of building a school in Nepal for underprivileged children. Please send any donation to Room to Read, a group dedicated to providing reading materials to underprivileged children in Nepal. Send a check, made payable to Room to Read, and In Honor of Frank and Teresa Olding, at: The Presidio, PO Box 29127, San Francisco, CA 94129. Erden.
  25. erden

    Burn Out or Rust?

    Hey Jordop: While I agree with your frustration, I would not resolve it the way that you suggest. In order for us to help your next of kin when you leave us for greener pastures, why don't you tell us about yourself beyond the anonimity that the web offers, so that we can tell everyone the truth as you were. Peace to you. Erden.
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