Cairns
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Posts posted by Cairns
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It was Henry Barber who didn't bother with cams at Beacon.
Henry Barber climbed at Beacon? Wow.....when?
When Free for Some was freed. Before 1978, publication date of the Jeff Thomas guide:
"Nuts are strongly advocated for protection on all climbs."
"The practice of applying chalk is similar to smoking; it does not bother those who do it, but it is highly irritating to those who do not. In addition, experience at Smith Rock has shown it to be highly visible and a permanent blemish on any climb with an overhang. Leave the offending white powder at home!"
Are you saying Freeforsome was first freed by HB?
That is indeed what memory kicked out, at first, but later I thought I might have heard 2 differing stories on the FFA. I wasn't there at the time. I was climbing at Devil's Lake, getting several kinds of abuse from Pete Cleveland. There was the newly freed Bagatelle he wanted people to try. My first tendon injury.
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It was Henry Barber who didn't bother with cams at Beacon.
Henry Barber climbed at Beacon? Wow.....when?
When Free for Some was freed. Before 1978, publication date of the Jeff Thomas guide:
"Nuts are strongly advocated for protection on all climbs."
"The practice of applying chalk is similar to smoking; it does not bother those who do it, but it is highly irritating to those who do not. In addition, experience at Smith Rock has shown it to be highly visible and a permanent blemish on any climb with an overhang. Leave the offending white powder at home!"
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Update: Porter is starting to make some real progress, but will probably be in the hospital for another 2-3 weeks.
I'm hopeful that by the weekend he will feel up to having more visitors, but right now its pretty much limited to family and a couple friends for short periods at a time.
Thanks for all your well wishes; I think it means a lot to Porter.
-P
I don't know him as a person but he's a
post master.Good to hear about the progress and thanks for the news.
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Pins, swami, goldline, and kronhofers:
That is a great shot, Cairns.
Yes, from well before the box camera. Mike Warburton, seen below at left, chipped it using a stone lashed to a stick.
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Holy fuck....thats Blown out. Who is that?
Different route, but here's the photographer:
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Cairns, great shots! Give me a shout if you're still climbing and make it down to PDX sometime...
Okay, thanks.
Standing in the middle of nowhere,
Wondering where to begin,
Lost between tomorrow and yesterday,
Between now and then.
And then its back where we started,
Time to go 'round again,
Day after day I get up and I say,
Time to do it again,
Do it again, do it again.
Boys, pony up sometime with just stoppers and hexs and give Blownout a whirl. I bet you'd have a whole new perspective of the climb. Maybe we should hold a 'RetroDay' and party afterwards this summer...
Although we rapped off a hex, in the dark, into poison oak, it is likely that a few Friends were on the rack. It was Henry Barber who didn't bother with cams at Beacon.
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Yeah, it isn't about who's having the most fun; it's who comes home with the most megapixels, which puts John Scurlock well out in front, but thanks for making a safe place for those of us who never did and never will understand how a camera works.
Pins, swami, goldline, and kronhofers:
Doubled stoppers:
The EB/Fire horizon:
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Zen as I understand it is ultimately about the dhyana absorption state where observer and observed have unified, extinguishing the subject/object split, thereby leading to "satori", the awakening of the mind.
Could be. Usually preceded by a ritual such as the tying of the shoelaces.
At best I have no sense of moving but the climb happens around me. Nice applications in the domestic arena, too.
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Whether it be 5.6 or 5.14, the rests, the moments between intensity are the Zen Times.
During one long interval of my climbing career it was the placing of gear that was the drug, not the climbing. Fear building, building, then gear placement and beautiful feelings. For a moment.
Be it a lay-down rest, a chin hook, knee-bar, thigh-scum, or those perfect seats where your belayer ties you off while you enjoy the view,or the toe-hook rest you find on some crazy cerebral route makes the climb sometimes...
in the early years, before chalk, having trouble on a Gunks route and just putting my hand out where I needed a hold and finding it, or, as it seemed, creating it
in over my head on ROTC but getting up it to a rest before quite blacking out, trying to balance the need to huff-n-puff against the need to not fall off from overly wide ribcage excursions
arms failing and extending on the inverted layback of Grand Wall then back coming to rest against what was air but is now incredibly a chimney
[beta alert]
arms failing on 11c 2nd pitch of Borderline undercling then knee somehow wedges and wtf! no-arms rest why didn't I see that? hey, look at that lovely yellow smudge where the pants rubbed off some of the xanthoria (lichen) how does it grow back there where there isn't hardly any light?
Stories and discussion?A Chinese story, kind of a Taoistic story about a farmer. One day, his horse ran away, and all the neighbors gathered in the evening and said, 'that's too bad.' He said 'maybe.' Next day, the horse came back and brought with it seven wild horses. 'Wow!' they said, 'Aren't you lucky!' He said 'maybe.' The next day, his son grappled with one of these wild horses and tried to break it in, and he got thrown and broke his leg...
When I was a boy, 15 years old, in a very orthodox Church of England school, I announced that I was a Buddhist. Nobody turned a hair. Here, if somebody announces that he's something strange, they have to go before the principal, and there's a big problem, and the FBI is brought in, and this, that, and the other.
stories from Alan Watts, the Value of Psychotic Experience, originally broadcast on KSAN radio, San Fransisco
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The Last Blue Mountain, Ralph Barker, Lord Hunt intro
What a book. i climb and enjoy it greatly. This really sums up the emotion you go through in the conditions
(Kid's review from Amazon)
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I climb because I am a selfish motherfucker, and don't care what anyone thinks...
You climb because your gonads need a fancy ride for their business, and they vote a controlling share of whatever mental assets you possess, same as just about anyone else.
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Holds up well on second viewing. Good train
Subtext somewhat plainer: gun bearing index pershing
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Ya, it needs to be edited. but first movie with iMovieHD, and i'm lazy.
Index 06 brahs!
A poignant homage, only needs a logging accent - some rusted chains or steam jenny or a logger falling down drunk.
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I guess that was a pretty lame troll (my first one)
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but I am semi-serious
About Mounties or single pitch trad?
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Okay, show us how it's done, big boy!I am not trying to rile anyone up but why is the skill level of trolls across this board so low?
First, what are trolls and what do they do?
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I am not trying to rile anyone up but why is the skill level of trolls across this board so low?
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no photos, but if you can imagine someone moving very slowly for eight hours in front of some rock then you've caught the zeitgeist.
And if you can imagine a lot of photos, too, then you've got bouldering.
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Anyone want to back me up that Static Point is perhaps the finest low angle slab climbing in North America outside of Yosemite?
Perhaps. Additional points for facing south and the Private Dancer guide.
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I'm absolutely uninspired for climbing. This is the first spring since I started climbing that I don't have a 12page ticklist to guide me through the warm sunny months.
I want to like climbing, but right now it has the same appeal as mowing the lawn- just another grind, just another chore.
I know I'm not the first to feel this way, so how do you crusty old farts keep the romance alive?
Probably just a virus. Wait it out. Or a low in your cycle (females 28 days, males approx 70 days).
If it persists, consider your options. If the non-climbing possibilities don't look good either then go out to the crags and look for some youngster running from the last climb to the next one and tie in and surf in the wake until you get your own juice back.
The question is not how does one keep the romance alive, but rather how could one possibly lose it?
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Matt
I have done it and recommend you do not. A bit problematic to find, TONS of downed shit since the 94' fire, no resemblance of a trail, not short, just downright suck, and back up... Stick with the trail.
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It was an easy descent 20 years ago and someone had offered to drop us off on top and we only had to continue down back to the car. All other times I hiked up but might not be coincidence that I only did ROTC that day we cruised down.
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i've gotta go with the prana fashion line argument. oh, and Jon Krakauer. if you want my complete rant, it's here:
climb_ca:
My wife's mother, for example, at age 60 still climbs in the Tatras.
Miroslaw:
Dzieci ksztalce w Polsce i czekam dnia, kiedy na stale wróca do Kanady. W przyszlym roku, jak Najwyzszy pozwoli, skoncze 60 lat i moze uda mi sie wziac udzial w spotkaniu oldbojów w Tatrach.
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The railroad and the tourismos should compare thoughts on where to go and what to do. Rap in for that climb. Tickets have been given lately for walking in along the tracks.
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Versteigenheit = 12d on Yam
= Shepp?
bit of a departure namewise from "Shepp's 13" and "Shepp's other 13"
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Pra = old
Szczur = rat
Please send out good wishes for Olyclimber
in Climber's Board
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Take a look in a mirror.
Are the veins in your forehead bulging?