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Cairns

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Everything posted by Cairns

  1. Please send out good wishes for Olyclimber

    Take a look in a mirror. Are the veins in your forehead bulging?
  2. Climbing vs. Soccer

    At least give credit for a great anecdote. The credit was there: Poland's only foreign correspondent for many years. Reported on 27 revolutions in the third world. Sentenced to death 4 times. For a not-so-good day-at-the-office, see The Burning Roadblocks, also found in The Soccer War. roadblocks
  3. Henry Barber climbed at Beacon? Wow.....when? When Free for Some was freed. Before 1978, publication date of the Jeff Thomas guide: "Nuts are strongly advocated for protection on all climbs." "The practice of applying chalk is similar to smoking; it does not bother those who do it, but it is highly irritating to those who do not. In addition, experience at Smith Rock has shown it to be highly visible and a permanent blemish on any climb with an overhang. Leave the offending white powder at home!" Are you saying Freeforsome was first freed by HB? That is indeed what memory kicked out, at first, but later I thought I might have heard 2 differing stories on the FFA. I wasn't there at the time. I was climbing at Devil's Lake, getting several kinds of abuse from Pete Cleveland. There was the newly freed Bagatelle he wanted people to try. My first tendon injury.
  4. Henry Barber climbed at Beacon? Wow.....when? When Free for Some was freed. Before 1978, publication date of the Jeff Thomas guide: "Nuts are strongly advocated for protection on all climbs." "The practice of applying chalk is similar to smoking; it does not bother those who do it, but it is highly irritating to those who do not. In addition, experience at Smith Rock has shown it to be highly visible and a permanent blemish on any climb with an overhang. Leave the offending white powder at home!"
  5. Climbing vs. Soccer

    In Latin America the border is vague.
  6. Climbing vs. Soccer

    Sunday 9 June 1969, the El Salvadoran soccer team arrives in Tegulcigalpa, Honduras for a match important to the 1970 World Cup in Mexico. Honduran fans stone the windows of the hotel where the El Salvadoran team is staying. They beat sheets of tin, set off firecrackers, and honk car horns. All night. The next day Honduras defeats El Salvador one-nil. The return match takes place in San Salvador one week later. The players were taken to the stadium in armoured cars. On the pitch stood a cordon of soldiers armed with sub-machine guns. The players from Honduras did not have their minds on the game. They had their minds on getting out alive. "We're awfully lucky that we lost [3-0]," said the visiting coach. The armoured cars carried the Honduran team from the playing field to the airport. Visiting Honduran fans were not so lucky. Kicked and beaten, they fled towards the border. Two of them died. Many landed in hospital. 150 of the visitors' cars were burned. The border between the two states was closed a few hours later. The war that followed lasted 100 hours. 6,000 dead, more than 12,000 wounded, 50,000 people lost their homes and fields. The deciding game was held in Mexico. The Honduran fans were placed on one side of the stadium, the Salvadoran fans on the other side, and down the middle sat 5,000 Mexican police. "In Latin America, [Luis] said, the border between soccer and politics is vague." The third game was won by El Salvador, three-two. from The Soccer War by Ryszard Kapuściński
  7. Please send out good wishes for Olyclimber

    I don't know him as a person but he's a post master. Good to hear about the progress and thanks for the news.
  8. That is a great shot, Cairns. Yes, from well before the box camera. Mike Warburton, seen below at left, chipped it using a stone lashed to a stick.
  9. Different route, but here's the photographer:
  10. Okay, thanks. Standing in the middle of nowhere, Wondering where to begin, Lost between tomorrow and yesterday, Between now and then. And then its back where we started, Time to go 'round again, Day after day I get up and I say, Time to do it again, Do it again, do it again. Although we rapped off a hex, in the dark, into poison oak, it is likely that a few Friends were on the rack. It was Henry Barber who didn't bother with cams at Beacon.
  11. Yeah, it isn't about who's having the most fun; it's who comes home with the most megapixels, which puts John Scurlock well out in front, but thanks for making a safe place for those of us who never did and never will understand how a camera works. Pins, swami, goldline, and kronhofers: Doubled stoppers: The EB/Fire horizon:
  12. The Importance Of Restful Climbs

    Could be. Usually preceded by a ritual such as the tying of the shoelaces. At best I have no sense of moving but the climb happens around me. Nice applications in the domestic arena, too.
  13. The Importance Of Restful Climbs

    During one long interval of my climbing career it was the placing of gear that was the drug, not the climbing. Fear building, building, then gear placement and beautiful feelings. For a moment. in the early years, before chalk, having trouble on a Gunks route and just putting my hand out where I needed a hold and finding it, or, as it seemed, creating it in over my head on ROTC but getting up it to a rest before quite blacking out, trying to balance the need to huff-n-puff against the need to not fall off from overly wide ribcage excursions arms failing and extending on the inverted layback of Grand Wall then back coming to rest against what was air but is now incredibly a chimney [beta alert] arms failing on 11c 2nd pitch of Borderline undercling then knee somehow wedges and wtf! no-arms rest why didn't I see that? hey, look at that lovely yellow smudge where the pants rubbed off some of the xanthoria (lichen) how does it grow back there where there isn't hardly any light? A Chinese story, kind of a Taoistic story about a farmer. One day, his horse ran away, and all the neighbors gathered in the evening and said, 'that's too bad.' He said 'maybe.' Next day, the horse came back and brought with it seven wild horses. 'Wow!' they said, 'Aren't you lucky!' He said 'maybe.' The next day, his son grappled with one of these wild horses and tried to break it in, and he got thrown and broke his leg... When I was a boy, 15 years old, in a very orthodox Church of England school, I announced that I was a Buddhist. Nobody turned a hair. Here, if somebody announces that he's something strange, they have to go before the principal, and there's a big problem, and the FBI is brought in, and this, that, and the other. stories from Alan Watts, the Value of Psychotic Experience, originally broadcast on KSAN radio, San Fransisco
  14. Favorite Books on Climbing

    The Last Blue Mountain, Ralph Barker, Lord Hunt intro What a book. i climb and enjoy it greatly. This really sums up the emotion you go through in the conditions (Kid's review from Amazon)
  15. Risk- why?

    You climb because your gonads need a fancy ride for their business, and they vote a controlling share of whatever mental assets you possess, same as just about anyone else.
  16. Youth Against Facism

    Holds up well on second viewing. Good train Subtext somewhat plainer: gun bearing index pershing
  17. Youth Against Facism

    A poignant homage, only needs a logging accent - some rusted chains or steam jenny or a logger falling down drunk.
  18. Single pitch trad climbing dumb?

    About Mounties or single pitch trad?
  19. Single pitch trad climbing dumb?

    Okay, show us how it's done, big boy! First, what are trolls and what do they do?
  20. Single pitch trad climbing dumb?

    I am not trying to rile anyone up but why is the skill level of trolls across this board so low?
  21. [TR] Squamish- Cannabis Wall 5/16/2006

    And if you can imagine a lot of photos, too, then you've got bouldering.
  22. Perhaps. Additional points for facing south and the Private Dancer guide.
  23. What do you do when the love is gone?

    Probably just a virus. Wait it out. Or a low in your cycle (females 28 days, males approx 70 days). If it persists, consider your options. If the non-climbing possibilities don't look good either then go out to the crags and look for some youngster running from the last climb to the next one and tie in and surf in the wake until you get your own juice back. The question is not how does one keep the romance alive, but rather how could one possibly lose it?
  24. Hike DOWN to Midnight?

    It was an easy descent 20 years ago and someone had offered to drop us off on top and we only had to continue down back to the car. All other times I hiked up but might not be coincidence that I only did ROTC that day we cruised down.
  25. Falling climbers' numbers

    climb_ca: My wife's mother, for example, at age 60 still climbs in the Tatras. Miroslaw: Dzieci ksztalce w Polsce i czekam dnia, kiedy na stale wróca do Kanady. W przyszlym roku, jak Najwyzszy pozwoli, skoncze 60 lat i moze uda mi sie wziac udzial w spotkaniu oldbojów w Tatrach.
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