Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Cairns

  1. hyperinflation

    BBBBob, thank you for bringing this dire situation to the attention of us all. Stupid out-of-control route holding hostage polite Canadian climbing area. But training value??? What were you thinking? Who is feeding you this disinformation? Are you training to become moderate? Andy Cairns
  2. Saturday Arrived at start of Angel's Crest to find self-conscious-looking young lady holding rope going up into tree. Went back down to alternate start but failed to bypass Katie and Brittany (sp?) and followed them and Calvin and Kelly. Turned out my partner knew Calvin though hadn't seen him for years. At the Acrophobes my partner asked if I had done High Plains Drifter. Told him I had not and had no intention of doing it. Sunday Followed Janez up High Plains Drifter.
  3. My Squamish weekend

    That traverse from Angel's Crest to High Plains Drifter actually sounds like a good idea and the gear I take for the second-to-last pitch of AC would do fine for HPD. Quinton moved to California to continue his search for individuals or organizations able to recognize the value in promoting his hip/cool lifestyle. The last person I know to have heard from him around here is Geoff Creighton.
  4. My Squamish weekend

    Most people, if they approach via Angel's Crest, will be carrying gear that won't cover HPD, or that will just be extra weight on AC. Not that hiking to 2nd summit for 1 pitch is a better approach. Janez carried the right gear up but didn't take it all down, as we were both thinking of a thin hand crack.
  5. My Squamish weekend

    Back in '65 my high school French teacher told the class that when North Americans are asked, "How are you doing?" they usually say, "OK", but that Europeans are more likely to say, "My liver hurts."
  6. Quotes about climbing

    Source I'm pretty sure it was in "Death in the afternoon" somewhere's towards the beginning. For a good story has anyone read "Cross-Country Snow"? I think the Hemingway quote culprit may be this guy: But more likely John Baird from The Hemingway Hoax, by Joe Haldeman.I think it ties in with Mounties
  7. Mysteries of the sauna

    Hot air expands, so there is less O2. To forestall the disastrous consequences of this the WVAC sauna door has a large hole at the bottom to allow O2 to enter. Assuming sea level pressure, how much O2 is missing in a sauna heated to 80 degrees C? What would the equivalent elevation be where the air is equally thin? How about for 100 degrees C? If you are just sitting in a sauna, with mostly relaxed muscles, and your body temp has risen 1 degree C, has your O2 consumption gone up, down, or sideways? How is the view from Seattle of the Orange Water Slide? Property values affected? To help Dru, here is an attachment of what might look like a stupid partner trick, but really it is just a way to do In Search of the Perfect Pump.
  8. Mysteries of the sauna

    dude. sauna = steam. steam = boiling. boiling = 100C. Dude. He said the sauna was heated to 100C. That would roast your skin. not necessarily. in the army they did tests where they heated soldier volunteers at like 200C for two hours trying to get them to pass out etc. if you reach 100c at a slow rate of increase your skin has time to adjust (sweating etc). There is no freaking way I am getting into a sauna at 100 degrees C. I use to go to this place that had Finnish style suanas (wood burning) and they were hot, 160 degrees F. Most electric sauna will get up to 120 F, gas ones hotter. I find 140 F pretty comfortable, but a lot of people I know that sauna regularly find 140 F pretty hot. The heating source I can see getting to 100 C. Sauna does not equal steam it equals dry heat. Steam in a sauna is only periodic and it is generated right at the heat source. In the old WVAC sauna we had a thermometer that showed highs of 85-90 degrees CENTIGRADE. Sometimes people would come in and complain it wasn't hot enough, naturally. Some visitors told us that European saunas are often 100 C or more. No way anyone is getting near water at 100, but the sauna is dry. If you go out into below 0 air temp, do you freeze right away? In the sauna your skin temp stays below air temp thanks to evaporation and your circulation exchanging heat with your core. Don't wear metal. Blink, or you could fry your cornea because no underlying circulation. One day a kid will come rushing in from the pool and toss a bucket of water on the heating coil.
  9. Mysteries of the sauna

    Thanks. I tend to believe you because that is exactly the same answer I got by guessing. Did you use PV = nRT, or what?
  10. Mysteries of the sauna

    Dan Lapesca, perhaps that's part of the trick.
  11. Mysteries of the sauna

  12. Best Pitches In The PNW

    If the number of times I've done it is an indication, then Sunblessed at Squamish must be good, because it sure ain't as convenient as Exasperator. The first 2 pitches are great. At least 3 of 4 finishes are good. It isn't why I climb but it is why I like to climb.
  13. Hallelujah Chorus

    The most significant event of the last 22 months is the re-opening of the West Vancouver Aquatic Centre. It took 22 months to renovate the old West Vancouver Aquatic Centre. 22 months wasn’t long enough to make any improvement to the pool people actually swim in, but we do now have a FRIKKIN HUGE ORANGE WATER SLIDE (see attachment). My favorite part of the WVAC, and the favorite part for many, was the sauna. It was a quiet relaxing place to overhear all sorts of interesting things about the local community, especially those things related by JBF the former Yakuza whose information helped bring down a Japanese government and whose plastic surgery and special chlorine treatments at a Powell River pulp mill made it possible for him to pass for a Westerner in dim light. In the new WVAC the sauna sits next to the kiddie pool with the FRIKKIN HUGE ORANGE WATER SLIDE. For some reason the sign on the door of the sauna saying that you must be over 13 to use it does not prevent kids from entering. This would be fine with me because nobody reads signs and the kids never talk about real estate, but the sauna no longer has a double door entrance like it used to, and one of the main things about a sauna is that it should be warm and it is hard for a sauna to be warm when the single door is opened every 3 seconds by some kid going in or out or just checking to see if their friends came in, or some lifeguard coming in to ask, "Are you over 13?" And having lengthy discussions about being over or under 13, which the lifeguard never wins. Even if we push the kids out and lock the door behind them we hear the shrieks from the pool as they hit each other with styrofoam or playfully toss their friends off the stairs leading up to the FRIKKIN HUGE ORANGE WATER SLIDE. I am certainly not going to invest in a long-term pass until I wait and see if they have to close the operation after some kid gets stepped or sat on in the crush of the locker room. Anyone from Seattle passing through to Squamish should check this place out. Sliding down the FHOWS will make you laugh out loud, guaranteed. For me it was one of the more pleasant 7 seconds of the past 22 months. Remember to cover you nose before you hit the bottom.
  14. Near-death soloing, first-ascent TR

    Why bother to believe directly in God when we have John Muir as a pointer to the address? 1854 John Muir is 15 years old His father says, "You may get up in the morning as early as you like." "That night I went to bed wishing with all my heart and soul that somebody or something might call me out of sleep to avail myself of this wonderful indulgence; and next morning to my joyful surprise I awoke before my father called me. A boy sleeps soundly after working all day in the snowy woods, but that frosty morning I sprang out of bed as if called by a trumpet blast, rushed downstairs, scarce feeling my chilblains, enormously eager to see how much time I had won; and when I held up my candle to a little clock that stood on a bracket in the kitchen I found that it was only one o’clock. I had gained five hours, almost half a day! ‘Five hours to myself! I said, ‘five huge solid hours!’ I can hardly think of any other event in my life, any discovery I ever made that gave birth to joy so transportingly glorious as the possession of these five frosty hours." John Muir for weeks afterwards spent the hours from 1-6am making a clock that could dump him out of bed at an early hour. When his father learned about this ludicrously unnecessary invention he ‘very nearly laughed.’ Considering the other evidence of his father’s character, that was probably one of Muir’s more amazing achievements. At University of Wisconsin, Muir literally hitched a wagon to a star. John Muir spent 4 years at University. He and his brother Dan went to Canada during the Civil War. June, 1864 Simcoe County, Ontario "Hunger and weariness vanished, and only after the sun was low in the west I plashed on through the swamp, strong and exhilarated as if never more to feel mortal care." - John Muir after seeing a Calypso orchid March, 1866 near Meaford, Grey County, Ontario 30,000 broom handles burn, along with a sawmill, a woodworking factory, and some rakes. John Muir’s Canadian stake is gone and he returns to the U.S. "Anyhow, I wandered away on a glorious botanical and geological excursion, which has lasted nearly fifty years and is not yet completed, always happy and free, poor and rich, without thought of a diploma or of making a name, urged on and on through endless inspiring Godful beauty."
  15. Climbers and Intelligence

    That depends. There is only one measure of intelligence that means very much. A person's intelligence is inversely proportional to the strength of their belief that intelligence can be measured. I'm sure of that.
  16. On the true nature of cc.comers

    Noted. May explain why you concentrate on spray. Excellent spray.
  17. On the true nature of cc.comers

    Also Karl Tobin as quoted by Barry Blanchard in CAJ vol 71, 1988: It don't have to be fun to be fun. Some people are too nice to post? Let's hear from those who are too mean to post. Are they too busy slashing tires? I'm pretty sure most of us who use this site see it as entertainment guaranteed, information sometimes, hidden agendas possible. There is always the game of emotional Battleship, where you keep firing shots to see where you get reaction from someone. Someone who is afraid to post may be afraid to learn things about themself. False negativity should wash off. I prefer to learn by watching others say stupid things and see when they get hit over the head for it. This site is great for that. But we shouldn't be afraid to speak up ourselves, either. That's dumb. That's how you stay dumb. If Mark Twight posted here I'd probably be afraid to say anything, too.
  18. TRs: Valuable or chestbeating fodder

    And if yuz duzzint like it yuz kin SHOVE OFF. [Pipe-smoking spinach-eating gremlin].
  19. TRs: Valuable or chestbeating fodder

    This site has TRs? I get so enchanted by the one-liners I have a hard time slowing down enough to read a whole paragraph. A well written TR is more trouble than it's worth. At least I can skip a poor one. A good one makes me anxious to go do something. I like the What Did You Do Last Weekend? A few simple sentences. I like hearing about climbs I've done, particularly if you had more trouble on them than I did. That's closet chestbeating. Here's what I did last week. Wednesday went in to look at new climb possibility but got scared off: Thursday went to Smoke Bluffs. Saw people on Yorkshire Gripper and Crime of the Century! Top-roped Air Time.Heard that Dave Lane has moved to my neighborhood. What did I just say? Oh, yes, are valuable or chestbeating the only choices?
  20. Bizarre Movies

    The "making of" Russian Ark is pretty cool when you see how close they came to blowing 2 years of preparation in the first 45 minutes of filming. Kronos, nice weirdness. Henry, too real, but The Borrower, okay. For fans of Memento, The Follower. Movies that go for weirdness usually don't have the same impact that unintentional weirdness can. The strangest thing I ever saw is two brief scenes in The Babysitters' Club Movie (if there is only one) but you might be asleep when they go by. You might be asleep before you put your hand on the case. For intentional weird, I'd go with Man Bites Dog, but all I know I learned in Conventional Video.
  21. Hero or Zero?

    i AM dating. that is why i need to unload the gun. havent you ever seen 'something about mary'? you cant go out with baby batter on your brain. Too bad the animosity has died. Thanks for bringing this thread back up, though, or I would have missed it. It is always fun to have a look into the dark ethical nightmare of aid climbing. I'm glad that gekkoe tape was not invented before the events that started this off.
  22. Weekend

    Up to the weekend: On Being Joe Rec Climber Portal to rec.climbing, find TR- late season Squamish cragging
  23. Totally random and unasked for beta

    Most of what I read here. Yellow slider topping out Fast Lane. Wait, that's obsolete. No gas station in Horseshoe Bay anymore. Must get to exit past Caulfeild. We nearly didn't make it after wasting our time coasting down to HB.
  24. best of cc.com Mounties Pics

    Thank you all for the very instructional thread. In a perfect world this thread could continue forever and we wouldn't have to spend so much time tearing each other apart. This one reminded me of the good old days: Practice, practice. Those skills come in so handy when you take it to the next level, helmetless.
  25. I shouldn't even be walking

    So you got an extra foot bone. If your foot works, use it. Doctors often give pessimistic advice about recovery/rehab to motivate the patient. Sometimes you have to pay them to do it, but nothing works better than hearing, "You'll probably never walk again." It can help to get that second opinion. When I broke my heel bone the young doc said I should walk on it, but the nurse looked surprised and as I was leaving there was some kind of conference and the doc came back and said he should have told me to not walk on it. Bit of a difference.