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Cairns

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Everything posted by Cairns

  1. What is a "Barley"? a landscaper and a pub near Skaha
  2. Sounds like a candidate for Seroquel, our current favorite for wandering elderly.
  3. The density of gray matter working on this project has started to draw into orbit those of us on the periphery with our circumferential evidence. 1. Wolf Bauer did translations from German. 2. G-Spotter's etheric receptors came up with Das Toof. Ergo ipso factoid. It seems that the mystery location could have been chosen by the photographer. The angular rock features are striking. As Stefan says the photographer has a vantage at or slightly above the climbers. There is no overview of the crag. It might be quite small.
  4. Won't believe anything until I hear from whoever rides it down.
  5. You must be the golden rectangle, gp. What would be ideal? If you want to limit the peak force in a fall then yes, you could space the pro farther apart as you got higher, but that would be scary. Most climbers prefer to limit the distance fallen, so pro should be spaced at equal intervals. From what I see on bolted routes we live in an ideal world.
  6. hiking,swimming, and looking up but the nearby town of Hidalgo has plenty to interest the curious and friendly; quite non-touristy
  7. I wonder did the same person knit the headband and the rope? Any ID on the location of the upper picture?
  8. Something I heard and pass along through the holes and filters of memory: bright leaf colors may be a warning to insects that the tree had a good year and has strong defenses against pests looking to lay eggs for next years brood. Even trees of the same species growing close to each other can show different colors and the earlier you put up yours the better your chances against your neighbor. Nature red in tooth and claw and branch? A good picture of a falling leaf can be a great statement about the tragic beauty of life in a universe of uncaring vaccuum. This is not such a picture. It only says that Halloween candy better be bought by tomorrow night.
  9. If travelling on a commercial carrier such as plane, bus, train, or ferry, you would do best to have a passport. Border agents differ on whether the passport needs to be current. My wife was recently told it was okay to fly on an expired passport. But probably agents can refuse an old passport or if they don't like your looks. When crossing in your car a passport will be needed sooner or later. Rules are a little different for Canadians, Americans, Canadians living in the U.S., and Americans living in Canada.
  10. Could be their findings were from dehydration: when you lose fluid most of your organs can just shrink a little but when your brain shrinks negative pressure would develop in the skull and delicate bits might get pulled a little harder than they like. I wonder how they know the lesions were irreversible. So far I see something that might be similar to getting calluses on your skin from rock-climbing. The article suggests that such an adaptation is at work: "the amateur climbers seem to be at higher risk of suffering brain damage than professional climbers" I like this tiny report: ******************* Acta Neurol Scand. 1993 Feb;87(2):103-5. Long-lasting neuropsychological changes after a single high altitude climb. Cavaletti G, Tredici G. Department of Neurology, S. Gerardo Institute for Biomedical Sciences, Monza, Italy. Acute neuropsychological changes due to high altitude climbing without supplementary oxygen are well known. However, many climbers report vague symptoms of brain dysfunction after return to sea level suggesting that long-lasting neuropsychological impairment may ensue even after a single ascent. In this study we evaluated a series of neuropsychological functions in a group of 11 climbers who ascended over 5000 m. Besides memory, also reaction time and concentration were less efficient when the climbers were evaluated 75 days after their return to sea level, confirming that even a single high altitude climb may be harmful for central nervous system functions. ***************** All of these studies suffer from the problem that when you study the brain you don't really know what you are studying. Which will keep 3rd-rate publishing needs supplied for some time to come.
  11. "Six of the nine climbers had lower than average scores on the Digit Symbol test, which measures executive functions. Three out of nine scored lower than average on memory tests, while four scored below average on a visual-motor function test." OMG! The odds of that are... ...about 50/50. I remember being at a seminar at UW Anesthesiology on just this topic ( before and after tests on an Everest expedition and simulated high altitude in a hypobaric chamber), with the amusement of doddering old fool Tom Hornbein's example being present. I'll take my brain insults unsubtle, please, and my executive functions can manage a digit symbol ANY time.
  12. About 30 days ago Sibylle H. was climbing at Squish.
  13. Seems to be a small study done 7 years ago. Probably doesn't model V15 or 5.15 very well. Probably climbers would've noticed before now. J. Sports Sci. not so hard to get published in - check Citation Index to see if this study had any connection to anything It's already known that shoe rubber on bare rock isn't way more slippery when wet; skin could be the same deal BUT mixing chalk with water, e.g. sweat, could lead to a variety of possibly contradictory effects on friction, depending on the proportions, and there are other substances in the mix which could be sources of variation, such as psychology, spiritual attunement to the rock (is that possible with the pebbles used in the study?), and shorts over polypro.
  14. A starry and crisp report, thanks! I hear that Jesse practices his dives at Kloochman.
  15. Beckey/Bjornstad 1965 is good if you wish to return to simpler times or for historical research on bushes
  16. Congratulations, rmncwrtr! Up til now I read that as roman critter. Little old ladies in our nursing home still read romance novels. I once read one by Diana Gabaldon. The sex was hot and interesting to see from the woman's point of view but the story was interrupted at the end and I wasn't about to go get the next 2 or 77 books to find how it all came out.
  17. It is good to appreciate. Out in Courtenay (BC) there is a Dad who picks up his young daughter after school on a Harley. Big intimidating guy, of course, but funny to see him turn red from embarrasment at the noise the bike makes as he leaves the oh so quiet neighborhood.
  18. You will need patience. What makes you think Mr. Enright is on route? He might have been attracted to an easy-looking line in The Tattler.
  19. an update from Michael Enright: The first 3 paragraphs were dense slide alder and Devil's Club penetrable only to French, er, euphemisms. The next 89,000 paragraphs are vertical or overhanging.
  20. I just heard CBC radio host Michael Enright say that he is setting off from basecamp to climb War and Peace and is fiddling with his pitons. Would include suitable illustration but am currently unable to locate upload images option But the question is: just a weird metaphor or misappropriation of climbing culture? no need to warn Canadians, they are born into boredom
  21. You're 10 years too late - it's an 11b slab route in Squamish. Isn't there also a route by that name at Lilooet Edge?
  22. Cerberus and The Gauntlet. Great picture of under-the-mantle on The Grand, btw.
  23. and speaking of the Cirque Cobra Crack 4th ascent Matt Segal
  24. Has he been on Boogie? I could do Wed. or Thurs. or Fri. but since it says Weekend: Last Saturday, Brendan's favorite climb, p1 Brendan's favorite climb, p2 and from last Sunday,
  25. I remember hearing that toward the top Timson was "well above" his last piece and his arms were getting tired. He had pretty strong arms.
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