spiderman

Aid climb City Park a few times and you'll know what will and won't hold a fall. City Park is VERY SAFE! Just be sure to bring tons of small stoppers and biners. Also...practice all your initial "gear" climbs on the solid splitters of Index, L-worth, and Squamish. Once you get an idea of what does and doesn't hold, you can easily take your skills to the harder to protect, not as uniform, blocky cracks of Tieton. I have this old VHS video of Don Reid's that I watch before I do any aid climbing adventures, which is pretty rare. I don't know what the video is called because it's a bootleg copy from an old friend, but I bet you can find it online if you try. Watching this thing once every few years before I do a wall really helps me dial my sh#* in. Get good at placing the gear and you'll trust it every time, also, it will hold 99% of the time. As long as the rock quality is solid anyway.

OK...ok...I've made my appology to Summit Chaser and I can't resist playing in the sand box now. Question...how long does it take a bunch of broke, dirtbag, climbers to raise enough money for a #4. And how long to raise enough money for a couple of Pabst Blue Ribbons. Any ideas?

I know that. Can't blame a guy for trying. Hahaha

Now....those are some funny posts. LOL

I kind of started a shit storm here...and I'm sure Summit Chaser has learned a valuable lesson at this point in time and I know we'll see him make some changes in his consideration for others. Come on now, everybody deserves a second chance. Right? Summit Chaser- I sincerely appologize for busting your balls man. I don't hold any grudges against you. Interestingly enough, I had tried to make a funny post a long time ago on this site, and this guy was like, "who the hell is this spiderman". What I immediately realized was that my comedy was completely lost on the readers of this site. A lot of comedy is "how you say it", not just what you're saying. So that makes acheiving comedy online a very difficult thing to do, and hell...that might be a large part of what Summit Chaser was trying to acheive with his beer story. Perhaps he just failed to realize that you have to be world class writer to write funny shit...who knows. If I may have everyone's permission...I would really like to please end this topic with this post. Thank you in advance for your complience with my request. You know...to bring us full circle here, it would be pretty cool if someone was like, "damn, I just picked up a #4 camelot at Index on the 18th or 19th". Has anyone here found the cam in question?.........Bueller?.........Bueller?........Bueller?......Bueller?

Yo summit chaser, just thought I'd let you know you're making an ass out of yourself. First, you put your beer in a river and expect it to not float away. Then you cry about someone stealing it online to tons of people who are smart enough to know that beer floats, and river's rage this time of year. Nice one. Next, someone is looking for a lost piece of gear, which is one of the things this site is actually useful for, other than ice and alpine conditions. And you tell them to fuck off because you don't care about their gear or problem. Do I really need to sit here and go any further about your arrogant self centered ways? I didn't think so. Why don't you think, just a little bit, before you post stupid shit. LOL My appologies go out to everyone for having to do this...I usually don't get involved in these types of subjects online. But I just couldn't resist, I have obviously had a little too much to drink tonight. No Summit Chaser dude, I'm not going to respond to your bullshit reply. It would be like giving in to an awnery child's demands. It's just something you shouldn't do. I'll make you a deal though, if you appologize to NKANE for your idiocy, I'll appologize to you for my drunkeness. Deal? LOL Peace out y'all.

Not cool talking about THE BEST SPORT CLIMBING in the state...OK...sure. Just remeber to stay off of the private driveway and remain on the trail to the east of the driveway.

Nice catch Kimmo! That was pretty funny that after I spray my route rating opinion, I then start off on my who gives a sh#* about ratings ideal. LOL I wish we had more steep stone around!!!

My milages could be just a touch off in either direction. But that's how you get there...and it's super duper steep! Steeper than Little Si or any other climbing destination in the state.

Park next to a cluster of mailbox's on Hwy 2. About 15 miles east of Steven's pass. Maybe 15.1-15.2. Or if you're coming from the L-worth, park 2.3 miles west of the rest area. The trail is DIRECTLY BEHIND the cluster of mailboxes. The approach trail is very straight forward and takes 15 minutes.

The only rating beta I have is it's all 5.11-5.13. Might be a few 5.10's??? But who knows, people on this web site seem to be pretty closed mouth about it like it's some super secret. LOLOLOL

Summitchasercjb. Done a bunch of routes a Nason Ridge and WOW....IMHO it's the best sport climbing destination in the state by leaps and bounds. If anyone here hasn't been there, they really need to go get some!!! It's mighty steep with incredible friction. I can't really give you any beta on all of the routes I've done out there because I don't have a clue what they are...other than 5 star quality!!!

11c???...not likely. I think everyone should be climbing at Nason Ridge where there are no guidebooks...or just leave your guidebooks at home when you go cragging. If it looks good, then climb it.

Do any locals know what the status is here? Open or closed? Thanks in advance.

YEAH!!! ... ::

Read Will Gadd's "Ice and Mixed climbing". It will tell you everything you need to know, focus on tracking your tools, and the "putting it together" sections. Using new and modern gear will make life really easy on you. WI5 should feel like 5.10, WI6 should feel like 5.11-, and WI7 feels like 5.11+. Same as everything mentioned above, but LEAVE YOUR WRIST LEASHES AT HOME!!! Leashes are a thing of the past and should not be used by anyone for anything. Climbing is much much easier and less pumpy without them. Anyone using a leash is likely using old, low clearance tools. Or they are just love to punish themselves and make life hell. Umbilicals are OK and nice to have for longer climbs.

PM on screw sent.

I think this practice is the most insane and reckless thing I've ever heard of anyone doing on ice!!! Holy Sh$# batman!

When I climbed Nemesis this year my partner and I had reached the base only to see a party starting up the first pitch. I immediately recognized the leader as one of the greatest ice/alpine climbers ever to set foot in the Rockies. So I figured it would be a quick wait, and my partner and I decided to ski around on the fluffy pow pow while we wait for our turn. We probably got to the base at 7:30 or so and this hero of mine(and every other climber in the world) finally got down at about 2:00pm. I think he had every right to be there, looked super solid, but VERY SLOW, and he didn't need to go climb a WI4. He obviously didn't meet the criteria of climbing each pitch in 20 minutes or less as Nemesis isn't that long of a climb. I just think that people move slower on harder climbs and milk rests. It doesn't mean they need to be on something easier. There is a difference between deliberately climbing slow and safe, and "Sketching" your way up something. I can spot the difference between the two types of climbers a mile away. There's the duche bag who sketches his way up something over his head slowly, and the bad ass who solidly and slowly climbs a hard route. I love climbing fast and running it out "BIG" on WI5 and easier climbs. But when the climbing get WI5+ and harder, I slow down and have been known to milk a rest for 5 full minutes to completely de-pump. I suppose all I'm getting at is the time frames set forth above don't always apply.

On a route like that, there are alot of different lines. The route is 30 feet wide! You should be able to blow right by slow parties. If you don't have the skill set to blow by unbearably slow people on a route of this difficulty, you should wake up earlier. If you were on a crack route in the Valley I'd understand your dilema, but you're on a WIDE open face with lots of different lines to be had.

Dane's the man and knows his sh#*. Nothing out there will beat the Scotch brand 2228. Enough said.

Did it the yesterday and it was super-duper fat and fun. But the real question on all our minds, is how all this new snow is going to affect the route????????? Will it just turn into a snow climb?

I'll take it.

Saw you below us at the base of Source Lake. We started up the wrong gully in the fog. Source Lake Line is climbing like 5+ 6ish with 12-24 inches of bad ice to break through before you can get a good stick. The gear is shite and more or less non existent. Dave and I beat it out into easier shape by the time we were done running laps.

Way to get after it Dallas! Wish I was there with you guys.