fern

you had me all confused there until I checked the trip dates. We ran into you on the same route last weekend but with a different partner. we were the ones rapping rutabaga in parallel to you ... sorry we didn't make the cc.com connection

I think Sonnie Trotter wrote a TR in a recent CAJ? ... unless there are silent ascents out there, it seems like the Howe/Flavelle, Edwards-Spagnut, and Trotter/Partner ascents are the only ones that have been done of the NE Butt?

it was fun climbing with you and Clint.

The approach across the talus field used to be death-defying. There was no real trail and the scree just rolled away under your feet trying to carry you into the river. The rap in was way way safer and easier and faster. During the highway construction a bunch of blast rock was chucked down the jumping jeep gully onto the talus cone and the whole thing apparently slid out into the river. I heard one story that the overall "ground level" of the talus field dropped by 3m. Sounds like it improved the ground-up approach.

Trip: Washington Pass - Serpentine Crack - Liberty Bell Date: 6/28/2009 Trip Report: Here is the only other thread about this route: Previous Serpentine Crack Thread This route is 4-5 pitches on good rock on the West face of Liberty Bell. It is shady and the amount of lichen suggests it is not super popular. Pitches are described as we climbed them - YMMV, I'd say the pitches are rated 5.8, 5.10b/c, 5.10b/c, 5.7, 5.4. The difficulty of the 2nd pitch probably varies with hand and body size - bigger is better, if #3 Camalot is a handjam for you then it'll be fine. Pitch 1 is up some slabs with fun knobs then up a steep mossy corner past a FP to a piton belay in a chimney/gully Pitch 2 is up a wide crack, low angle at first, then steepening dramatically to a short overhang bulge before the angle kicks back in a flared chimney. This isn't the crux pitch in the books but it seems to be the crux discussed in the other thread. It's burly and I ended up aiding through the bulge after ripping a fist jam out. A FP in a horizontal foot-ledge can be backed up with hand or fist sized piece for the belay in a cramped alcove. The rock here is weirdly varnished with some calcite precipitate or something. Pitch 3 is the guidebook crux, but it's technical footwork cruxy rather than fisty burlfest cruxy. There's an old 2x4 "pin" still wobbling in the crack. After pulling past another bulgy overhang the hard climbing is over, but there is still plenty of fun left. Pitch 4 goes up some easy mossy blocks in the corner then tunnel under chockstones and squish through a little slot up onto a nice ledge (might need to clear your harness off to fit here). The Sidewinder route also comes up to this same ledge so the last pitch is shared. I think the last pitch is one of the most super I have done at the Pass - it is a beautiful sunny position on a semi-exposed spur, with 5.easy to 5.7ish climbing over steeper bulges on cracks and cool granite plate chickenheads. Finish just below the west summit, then scramble through the notch and over to the main summit (kinda bad rock but easy). Descend the regular way per the Beckey Route. Gear Notes: mostly hand size up to #4 Camalot. Several in 3" and larger. Long slings. Approach Notes: Up the gully same as for Beckey Route, but about 100ft below the spur that route starts on you scramble out the left wall of the gully onto a slabby bench. The big roofs left of Serpentine are obvious - look at the photo in the Beckey guide to identify the relevant features.

we should have done our cc.com homework and brought some more big cams for the .11OW. We ran away like scared little girls. Shivered our way up Serpentine on Sunday. Fun weekend and very quiet. The avalanche debris over the Blue Lake trail is CRAZEEE!

quitters!

The Grand Wall is now closed above the Split Pillar. Go to squamishaccess.ca for details as they are available.

the only good and relevant science is personal empiricism. n=1 .

The Paleo Diet for Athletes by Joe Friel and Loren Cordain is another pretty good reference, specifically the introductory sections on timing of food/fluid intake w.r.t training and event scheduling. Similar to Halifax's post above but with some specific numbers. There is also discussions for strategies for determining your personal water balance depending on event duration and environmental factors etc.

how would you know that "obviously, its got the long haul stuff covered" when you obviously have never checked the mtnathlete site out. If you had, then you would know the answer to the finger strength and cragging endurance questions. obviously lazy

Barley is "developing"

two Crossfit gyms in downtown Van, one at Clark&3rd, one in N Van, one in W. Van, two in Langley, two in Surrey, one in Maple Ridge. not too many CrossFit trainers in lower mainland with experience at high altitude mountaineering though.

Hi Pablo Feel free to send me an email or private message here with any questions. I can definitely help you find resources in the Vancouver area to help you with your fitness training, whether it's with personal training or guidance with a self-directed program.

I had matching blisters on both feet once after a bad hike. So I performed the drain vs. not drain experiment. The result was zero difference in pain, rate of healing, or quality of healing. Just keep it dry and avoid re-irritating it and let it do its thing.

I just want to raise attention to a local program that might be of interest to some cc.com-ers. Girls On Ice This is the 10th year that this program has happened. It is a 10 day summer course for high-school aged girls, aimed at introducing them to a variety of environmental science and mountain experiences that they might never otherwise be exposed to. The program is offered at no cost to the candidates, and is funded mostly by public donations. A unique aspect this year is the collaboration with a school in South Africa which will bring one girl from there up to Seattle. Donations are tax deductible. If the fact that it is a "girl's only" thing bugs you, then I encourage you to direct your donation to any other youth program that better suits you, for example the Boy Scouts.

Drove through yesterday and this morning. It's a battle of cold air vs sunny aspects, coupled with minimal running moisture. Today and tomorrow you could probably find some scratchy thin stuff to TR, but nothing looked really thick and bomber for leading, I bet by the weekend it will have warmed enough for what's there now to detach. Shannon Falls was rimed up on the sides, Icetime for Gonzo was looking thin. Nice smears/flows on lower angle stuff left of Shannon Falls and in Murrin area. Scottish Tale could be coming in, but keep in mind it is a terrain trap that gets full morning sun on the upper curtain (Hadrian's Wall)...choose your timing wisely.

My trip was no airdrops, one vehicle for 5 people and did mountain bike shuttles. Probably less than $300 for 3 weeks all included. The Monarch range is probably the easiest "remote" range to get to.

the 7 pics in the collage, and the next two of the blonde fellow rappelling are all on the same crag. There are many rock features that line up. All the pictures are of the same 2 guys wearing the same clothes (check hat, knickers, hair colour, socks etc.), so stands to reason they were all taken on the same day at a single location.

that area is all pretty low elevation and at or below treeline. Forest is pretty dense. Snow quality is often not super. Trailhead is about 1k, peaks are 5k to 6k. You could probably find a few days worth of fun with the right snow conditions.

craigslist is not quite as bad as ebay. But in future please list your items for sale here directly in addition to linking.

The Petzl ropes are made by Cousin(sp?) . I had the core ends herniate out of the sheath and a progressive kinkiness develop in a Petzl Nomad rope, but if we are comparing to BEAL?? jeezus no contest. Even at double price I would rather get the Petzl than a p.o.s. Beal - in fact that is how I got the Petzl, as a warranty replacement for a Beal. I have petzl doubles too, but not much mileage on them yet to judge durability.

they are mostly super but the picks are somewhat jingus (hard to clean and easy to bend) - at least the picks are cheap though

I think your point has been made johndavidjr. If you would like to continue sharing your research on Giardia, water filtering efficacy etc. I encourage you to start a new thread on that topic in the Climbing forum. Let's bring this thread back to the topic of critiquing gear - water filters, pills, magic beans etc.

Whatever water treatment you choose, you should also throw in some antiseptic handwash gel. I have used the 2 part chlorine based stuff before on South America and it is OK. I brought a mini-syringe to do the mixing. Overall though my preference was to use regular tincture of iodine since it is dual purpose as a first aid kit item and water treatment, plus it is easily scalable for varying quality/clarity of water and it leaves less aftertaste than the tabs