jkrueger
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Posts posted by jkrueger
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Hey Dru, do us a favor and tell us all WTF you do for a living that allows you to post so damn much and so fast all over this BB, eh?
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Nice outing!
I've been wanting to do that one, but haven't found anyone to carry my pack for me . . .
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This land is my land
This land is your land
That explains all of the lawsuits
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Does this mean these routes are no longer redpointed because the draws are all pre-set?
When climbing sport, it is generally accepted that a send on hanging draws still counts as a redpoint. It's not full value, per se, but a redpoint just the same.
Or do people who want the redpoint generally clip their own draws under the fixed ones if the hanger allows?That would be silly.
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Steve Vai got airplay back when Passion and Warfare came out (and of course don't forget his stints with Coverdale and Diamond Dave). His quirky stuff can only be appreciated by true afficionados.
As of late he's getting airplay on the Halo 2 video game. It's probably his biggest audience since he went toe to toe with Ralph Macchio in Crossroads.
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Return2Sender -- 2005 Spring Tour
http://www.return2sendermovie.com/
Big-air antics of free climbing pro Timmy O’Neill in the Peter Mortimer film Return2Sender . . .
Washington
Seattle: April 26, 7:00pm, Neptune Theater
British Columbia
Vancouver: April 27, 7:00 & 9:00pm, Macmillan Planetarium
Oregon
Portland: May 4, 7:00pm, Hollywood Theatre
Eugene: May 5, 7:00pm, UofO/177 Lawrence Hall
Bend: May 6, 7:00pm, Tower Theater
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There are 3 video clips from Parellojams (shot at Indian Creek) online at:
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Ah . . . not bitching or complaining; just fleshing out some of the grey areas by providing some counterpoint to your arguments, Rudy.
I have the utmost respect for Adam as a climber and a person. He is exactly who he is and makes no apologies or justifications to anybody for it.
However, I'm not entirely convinced that chipping is an acceptable means of route development. But at the same time, I realize that there are no absolutes. I don't expect anybody to live up to the same standards as me, hold the rock sacred, or even see chipping as a controversial issue. What I do is my choice, and what you do is yours.
No, I haven't developed anything at Smith. But I have developed trad routes in Oregon that involved copious amounts of trundling, prying, scrubbing, and destruction of plant and tree life. I made a decision as to what means I would use to justify my ends. Route development is, ultimately, a selfish act. And yes, it can be a lot of work. I have even been told to be "less aggressive" in my cleaning tactics, which I'm taking on suggestion.
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well jason...stay away from smith and live in la la land...
I'm not living in la la land. Quite the opposite. I'm well aware there are chipped routes at Smith. I've probably even climbed a few. I know a person that has pried away huge blocks and chipped nearly entire routes there. Granted, the lines and moves look good. But at what point does it become justifiable to debase the rock for the sake of creating a route?
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nope...no line whatsoever...if i see something that looks cool, i go for it...
Ah, this is not surprising coming from the man who once proclaimed "There are no ethics in climbing." Though I disagree (about the ethics thing), I do respect your consistency.
So Jason, what's a route that has high star count/popularity/aesthetic appeal that you WON'T climb?I have yet to encounter the route that was established with such disregard to the established ethics of the area as to dissuade me from stepping up to it. Which isn't to say it isn't out there . . .
On the one hand, climbing a chipped route isn't going to change the fact that it is a chipped route. But on the other hand, climbing a chipped route is, in effect, condoning the act of chipping in the first place. It becomes a (difficult) question of the ends justifying the means.
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Perhaps personal ethics are defined as much by what you won't climb as by what you will . . . Is there a line which you absolutely will not cross, regardless of a climb's recommendations, stars, popularity, or aesthetic appeal?
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Voters' Pamphlet -- Volumes 1 & 2
I'm sensing a liberal bias as evidenced by their use of the term pamphlet . . .
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In all fairness, they should have also informed the bugling elk of the official regulations. Damn, they were loud!
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Thought that was Jim Bridwell I passed in the parking lot. Ah yes, the carnival . . . that explains it!
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Yes. Was that you ahead of us? If so you're in trouble for being inconsiderate and bringing down small rocks on my belay.
If it wasn't you then were you climbing on the 5.8 next to Moscow. Looked like a nice climb.NOTE TO NEW MULTI PITCH CLIMBERS (OR INCONSIDERATE EXPERIENCED ONES...): If you believe you need two ropes to get off a climb either the leader trails it, so the second can free it if it gets stuck OR the second carries it on his/her back or in a pack. IMO the second should NEVER be trailing a rope and just leave it hanging all the way up a multipitch route without ever restacking at the belays. It is in the way of other parties coming up behind and creates hazard by potentially bringing down rocks on other climbers. AND if it does get stuck you have created a problem for the parties coming up behind you.
VERY BAD FORM!!! Whoever you were.
Thought that was you! I would have stayed and chatted, but I'd already been subjected to so much nonstop senseless chatter in the area that I just had to get out of there. My favorite was when the guy said, "Those guys ahead of us are moving really slow, but we'll be moving at a pretty good clip." We then climbed our route, came back down Misery Ridge, and I swear those same two guys were still in the same exact place talking about the same damn thing!
Peking was good, especially that first pitch. I caught the leader ahead of you on Moscow at the top of the 2nd pitch -- he asked if I knew where the rap anchors were and I politely suggested he do the walk off, at which point they brought up their trail line and carried it the rest of the way. I was looking out for you!
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Hey Chelle ~
Were you over at Red Wall on Sunday going up Moscow to give a couple of newbie guys a tongue lashing for trailing a rope?
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Mr. Radon & JDog --
Ryland and I were the party you passed on the hike in. We arrived behind a party on Serpentine Arete, who were likely the ones you speak of summiting Dragontail. I was about a third of the way up the route, sitting on a ledge, looking at the weather, contemplating the fact that above that point (the tree line) the only way down was to go up when a sudden gale of cold wind and a few rain drops hit me -- I took it as a sign, listened to intuition, and we decided to bail. The rain hit with force soon after we reached the base of the climb and were making our way down the scree. For us, it was the right decision -- climbing in the rain is never appealing, nor is a bivy without proper gear (a helmet, rain shell, and helmet only go so far) in the freezing rain throughout the night. I was hoping you two were out of harm's way when I looked up and saw the entire top third of the mountain engulfed by weather! Glad you made it out okay. Impressive work and determination -- that's one hell of a long day!
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The judging was crazy from beginning to end: giving the exact same score to four people in a row, refusing to award a perfect score, not rewarding gymnasts who pushed the envelope, changing scores, and on and on -- the scoring seemed almost arbitrary!
I was impressed by Alexi Nemov's decorum, tact, and respect following his highbar routine.
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Thanks for the info!
My invite to Red Rocks is from someone who knows the area and asked me along with the specific goal of doing two grade IV routes in a weekend. Having never been there, I thought it would be a good idea to see what I was looking at before committing to the trip.
It sounds like the main issues are approaches, route finding, and getting out before the gates close. On the bright side, it seems like the goal is a definite possibility!
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An opportunity has crossed my path and I have a few questions and concerns . . .
1. What exactly is a Grade IV route?
2. What are the Grade IV routes at Red Rocks?
3. How feasible is it to do two Grade IV routes in Red Rocks over the course of a weekend?
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The problems in this world will not be solved by the minds that created them.
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Yeah, she might be able to do a Prana top justice.
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Not sure if you're trying too hard, or hardly trying?
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And what does your fiancée think of that?
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"If you're going to ride my ass, you could at least pull my hair."
Dear moron,
in Spray
Posted
Did you try *asking* for help?