jkrueger

In reading these, I'm not sure it's the route that matters so much as the ineptitude of the newbie climber.

Shouldn't that be Bouldering Boy Banninator ... ?

For Distel, I think spoterator would be a more appropriate term.

If they are half the price, does this mean you can only continue using them if you drop them from half as high up?

Post deleted by jkrueger

You use the rubberband to hold together the cam you dropped. It is best to do the repair while climbing right before placing the piece that you don't really need because gear serves no real purpose. It's just a mental piece anyway, and you're not going to fall, so it's best to waste as much time and energy as possible placing a piece of worthless pro. But if you did fall on the protection that you don't need to begin with it's going to fail anyway so it's best that it at least appear to be sound -- hence the use of the rubberband.

People who climb hard. I plan not to fall, but realize that it is always a possibility -- regardless of the difficulty of the climb. uhhh...i'm with scott on this...many routes i get on, i KNOW i'm going to pitch before i get them sussed out...gear or bolts... You're not falling, you're not pushing yourself...simple as that...with that in mind, put the cam on the aid rack or throw it in the can... Semantics? Difference of perspective? The way I see it, if I plan on falling, I probably will (self-fulfilling prophecy). I always prefer to think there is the possibility that I might make it, however remote. When I'm climbing hard there is a higher probability that I will fall (like 99.99%), so I factor that into my judgment and act accordingly. If that is what is implied by planning to fall, so be it. But I still don't plan on falling.

Climbing is about calculated risk. With so much that can possibly go wrong, much of it beyond your control, why would you want to stack the deck against yourself? I would rather expect my gear to do its job than expect it to fail. That said, it is a personal decision based upon your own tolerance for risk. I don't care if you people sling weeds with rubberbands for pro.

People who climb hard. I plan not to fall, but realize that it is always a possibility -- regardless of the difficulty of the climb.

I respectfully disagree. The idea is for pro-tection to save your ass, should it ever come to that. If your pro is unable to fulfill this singular requirement, it is virtually worthless and could lead to disastrous consequences (see also: life insurance thread). Who plans on falling, anyway? Besides, things are not always as they appear ...

Miracles are like talent -- you have to start off small before you can create a masterpiece.

wemmon I think RuMR has more pairs of climbing shoes than I have biners!

You say that like you're surprised -- as if I never have a point? I hate to state the obvious, but it's usually the first thing overlooked ...

Climb faster!

Dogleg Crack, perhaps? If anything, it's aptly named (as is Meatgrinder)!

You lack the ability and talent to create anything, so you compensate by trying to destroy everything. One could say that you've made a lifestyle choice with your gun ownership. Not all of us want to hear about it, but that doesn't stop you from sharing it with us. Have you ever considered showing others the tolerance they afford you?

Post deleted by minx

Sorry, but my idealism has been tempered by the reality of the depravity that lurks just below the surface around here.

Typically, gymnasts are done when they hit puberty -- are you sure you didn't mean to say yoga or pilates? But 27, now that's a good age -- universally approachable. But if you don't want to climb outdoors, what the hell are you doing with a dog and a truck? The ditzy is cute, though ... in that naïve kind of clueless help me way. Out of 10 possible, I'll give you a 5 for presentation, a 2 for preparation, and a 0 for originality. But hey -- we should go fishing sometime.

Other than Smith, most of the good climbing in Oregon is actually in Washington. There are guidebooks for the Portland area, SW Oregon, the Chosscanoes, etc. Or, you can try your luck and search this site ...

Some things are self-evident.

Avatars of the banned are like the animals that come back in Pet Sematary .

As a creature of habit, I always tied in the same way -- that being consistently to the same side of the belay loop. Had I alternated which side of the belay loop I tied in through, I probably wouldn't have a harness that was theadbare on one side of the belay loop and pristine on the other. Kinda like rotating your tires.

I wonder why they call it a belay loop, anyway?

The music one chooses to listen to does not make them any more or less cool than the next person. If just one person gets turned on to some new music because of this thread, than the usage of time and bandwidth has not been in vain.