roger_johnson
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Posts posted by roger_johnson
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Mike Helms and Wendell Holmes did a winter climb of the big face back in the late 70s or early 80s.
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Got two pair of Scarpa "Parnoia" rock shoes, size 42.5 and DAMN, they are too tight! Selling them for the paltry sum of $40 a pair. That includes shipping to you! Go to a shop and try on a scarpa 42.5 to get an idea of fit. Let me know soon! They are the "cats ass".
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You can catch the interview today on TVW at 12:30 or listen to it anytime on authors
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Cleaning out the gear! Technica 7 leather double boots! Used three times up Denali. W. Ridge, W. rib and Cassin. Each time with super gaiters so the boots are in New condition! Beautiful one piece leather uppers with a full rubber rand for those steep jam cracks and heel hooks
Removable leather inner boot is still in excellant condition.
Very comfortable for those long, cold artic conditions. A rare boot, size 10.5.
Molitar Mtn. boots. Very serious boots! Hand made, custom boots. Stiff with very protective heel and toe areas. Made for very rugged mountain routes, can take the worst abuse! Not light weight but your feet will not suffer from the rocks. Approx. size 9.5. Actually a collectors item too.
Make offers! PM me.
Make offers, PM me.
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My wife is cleaning out the gear room! She has decided to get rid of two pair of hiking boot.
1.Raichle "Spirit" size 6m Great hikers! Never worn! Semi-stiff with rubber rand all around, vibram sole, very light. She wore her first pair for hundreds of miles but this pair doesn't fit her...
2.Technia - A rare pair of boots. Very light weight but lots of sole support, stiff; perfect for backpacking with heavy loads on rough terrain. Used on one hike. One piece leather uppers with lacing down to the toes for perfect fitting. Leather lined.
Size is approx. 51/2
Make offers, PM me.
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What about the Harmon in T-town? Great beer, good food, and supports the climbing and skiing community and has pictures of Mtns on the walls.
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You ask about a spring/summer boot good for crampons and glaciers and thn alpine rock. My recommendation is the regular Trango, no insulation needed. Insulation just adds bulk, weight and something else to dry out. I've used the Trango a lot, very comfortable for approach trails, supportive for steep dirt, heather, scree and a great edging, jamming and friction boot. I love it.
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Alex,
What is the deal with your e address. Undeliverable...
I'll take the boots
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I have known JY since the seventies when he and I and a few others worked long and hard on the construction of SPIRE rock. Actually it might have been the early 80s. So easy to slip a decade... JY was and is a very talented climber and is always looking for new rts. You may only hear BS coming from JY because of your lack of knowledge of climbing history. Just the same way I thought Walter Bonatti was a BS master until I knew the full story. His exploits were a full measure beyond the accepted limits of climbing. I'm not sayin JY is another WB, but don't be so quick to dismiss JY as a BS master.
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Trango (light weight alpine shoe) sz 44? right?
If so, I'll take them! PM me.
![[Wink]](images/icons/wink.gif)
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We went into the South side of Augusta in the early 70s and got a couple thousand feet up before the lack if good rock (tons of loose stuff everywhere) dictated a retreat. Of coarse, the avalanche sweeping our gear and ourselves away sped the descent up. Or is it sped our descent down? Very happy that JT is down and recovering!
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keyes pk?
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Name those peaks! Or, is the one on the right a new Moss tent design? Do I spot a new route up the shinny ice face on the left? Avy territory in the rift between the peaks.
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The winner is not a new entry. This incident happend many years ago. I first heard about it in a book that is at least 5 years old.
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I think the climber is Fred Stanley...? This and a couple others were on the walls of Sheltons Cafe in L-worth, Freds coffee place. He was "fond" of the owner, Maxine. The real controversy at Castle was the logging of Loggers Ledge by climbers. Before that it was a bush wack to the top of Jello and the moss and dirt fest to the top.
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Ditto Dru: "chop chop".
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WOW! Sounds like Specialed has a deep seated problem with"hippie-ass" ways. There is noting wrong with tying slings, sewn slings are just another way for corporate greed to get your money. Kind of like all those versions of SUVs, its just transportation for Gods sake. Sure sleek design and a small improvement in strength really do not improve the usefulness of the q-draws. We used to call them hero loops, they could be tied around shallow pins or made into a q-draw. Because they are no longer called hero loops doesn't make them any less useful. Because they came from the "hippie-ass" era doesn't make them any less useful. "Friends" are a product of that era, "hippie-ass pieces of shit" you say? Try not to let your prejudices rule your life.
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I was in country in the late sixties and did some climbing in the Highlands near Kontum and Bien Het. Pretty good rock but not huge,had to solo everything, no gear but the motivation to keep moving was high. There was a little rock climbing on some hill tops near Pleiku and AnKay Pass. It has been so long ago my spelling is fuzzy...
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I've been in the Ruth Gorge and can say that a top end of WI 4 and 5.8 is pretty low for the mts in that area. Might have more to choose from in another range. Just a thought....
Another thought- It is an incredable place!! Worth the trip! Skiing down glacier towards Mt. Johnson, past the East face of Barille is like nothing else. You could pioneer many new lines on the peaks below Mooses Tooth.
[ 03-29-2002: Message edited by: roger johnson ]
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I'm sorry you think Bruce's Boulder is a big wall. Most people just rap down at the end of the day and jug back up the next. Maybe you could get one or more of those impressionable mountie chickz to head up the big stone with you.
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When you add meat to your glops you then need to wash the pot or run the risk of "digestive problems" later in the trip. If you boil water later for a hot drink you can incorporate the glop flavor into the drink or slosh the water around in the pot to clean it out a little. Skip cooked meals in a pot and do everyting in your cup. Boil water for drinks and food in the pot, it stays clean and your cup gets rinsed with every hot drink. You can use freeze dried rice with cheese and flavors or instant mashed potatoes with dried tofu with flavors. Eat Tuna straight out of the can or pouch. Go with instant rice and protien bars. of course, if you are backpacking, the menu can be gourmet and the cooking and cleanup increases dramatically.
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I've used an alcohol stove for years. A small brass affair with a tight screw on lid. When full the stove will burn for about a half hour, enough for a week end of warm drinks. When heating water just plop the lid on it to snuff the flames and retain unburned fuel. It is about the size of a small tuna can.
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What is this noise about a heavy pack? We are talking about bivies. No camping, a jacket, hat, food, maybe a bivi sac, mayby a tiny stove and tiny pot(doubles as cup and bowl). That's it. Sit or lay on the gear and rucksac. Go light. Yes it is more that shorts, harness, shoes and a rack and rope but not much.
Down Parka Kit
in The Yard Sale
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Cleaning out the Surplus climbing gear. Uncovered a ALTRA Down Parka Kit. Green ripstop, size Medium, partially assembled. Features double handwarmer pockets, no sewn through shoulder seams, raglan sleeves for a better fit, inside pocket, waist draw string, high down filled collar, two way zipper. (Medium is chest 38-40, sleeve 35, length-30) Seems like a lot of down in the box (prepackaged for distribution in the parka. Selling for something plus postage.