klar404
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Posts posted by klar404
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cheers on the offer bug but the axe has been shleped out for me and will be in my meaty palms soon.Case closed via note left at trailhead. Perry Mason would be pround. There are good souls left on this planet!
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Left at a stop on lower ridge on the way down from Baring on 5/24/09
will pay 30 bucks to the kind person who returns it.
cheers!
Note left at trailhead produced axe! There are good people left on this there planetoid!
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Burners! I could never imagine a climbing trip where the "now" was involved.
Um, yeah.
The lost arrow bolt shot is pretty cool.
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I've been pooing at vantage since circa 92. back then it was under rocks and not a big deal. Now you could use a park with showers and the ifrastuctre to back it up (rangers,shuffle board courts, etc).Since that is not going to happen, why not poo in a bag where you camp then haul it out to a Smith like outhouse located above M&M wall? Sure, Sabbath fans will still poo on the rocks but climbers could carry their poo with pride...
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Putting the bowl into bouldering.
Uh, I mean, putting the bowl into trip reports....
It took me five trips to summit Kyes for some God Damn on the Goddammit reason.
Nice job.
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A real adventure by true stallions! And, by the way, watch out for Pat. He will never look you in the eye and will letch your girlfriend out...
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It's eleven minutes long. You can actually get into the mind of a snaffle once they enter lab.
"He's beginning to get curious about that string. See him sniff at it"
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5321023603675822454
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I "heart" nutsack climbers. Regardless of their ethnicity or gender.
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It sucks to be you.
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I've climbed it twice. Once in the winter of 95 with sugar snow to the summit. Left a picket on top. The second time was in July 03 or 04? Un-roped on the glacier. The tip of the 'shrund collapsed under our weight while we sussed the rock. We were lucky. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=1430&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=1262
My guess is that if you are asking questions you should go loaded for bear. I don't think the frontal rock pitch will protect well. The second will be whistling though.
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Trip: Tupshin, White Goat and Devore -
Date: 9/28/2008
Trip Report:
Had a week to kill somewhere. Rock climbing in Idaho or mountains local.Decided to go somewhere we hadn't been before.Loaded up the pigs with six days of food,rock gear,single malt and threw in crampons and ice axes "just to be safe".
Took the lady of the lake from Fields point to Stehekin. Asked around at the docks and some great couple from Wenatche gives us a boat ride to Weaver Point!
The boat ride saved us around three hours of hiking and bus riding.We hiked up devore creek to bird camp then crashed after fighting off snaffles for a hour.You see, we had created a golden rule for this trip. No more than 5 miles or three thousand feet of elevation with the packs we were carrying.Time spent at camp.Enjoying ourselves.
Day 2
Got up and hiked up the ridge towards Tupshin.
Dropped our packs at the ridge and cruised up Tupshin's south side. It was a right trending ramp then two pitches of fourth and low fifth to the summit area. We climbed right past all the five fixed rappels. It was fun to read Blakes ascent of the East ridge. Rapped off(with one rope) and started looking for water in the bony basin below.
Day 3
Descended slightly into Bird Brain Basin and decided to go up the waterfall that Becky says is where you "gain the forest"
Walked up to the lakes through ever increasing larch action and ditched the pigs.
We then rambled through some of the nicest meadows I've seen toward White Goat.
Climbed the SE corner in two short pitches because of rope drag. It goes at around 5.5.Has a fixed pin that is old as hell. Some great rock and some death flakes.Summit ridge and views of Tupshin were crazy!
Register had dates from 1940,1941,1974,1987,2002. We assumed that we were in the top fifteen to climb it. We rapped off a nice station with ancient webing.It's 40 meters to the ground. We had two 8mm 37 meter (don't ask) ropes and made it with rope strech.Plenty of nicer rock on this crag but gear would be problematic.
day 4
Woke up and decided to climb Devore. This route was great but a little tedious with the moraine and talus.Better with more snow.
You gain the ridge at the col 7500, then stay left all the way up except at the first towers. At the towers there was a ice patch but we skirted it below then got back on the ridge above it. I actually used my ice axe in the dirt when off route. Which was the only time we used it.It and the spikes were dead weight. oh, well.
Once above the towers you enter a gully and climb up to a fourth class step. I used a rope for no apparent reason since there was no gear where you needed it. go left around a VERY exposed corner and drop down onto a sidewalk ledge. This takes you to another gully that is shaped like a Y. Drop down then go up the other branch.
We rapped off a horn near the summit to avoid some 4thish downclimbing also rapped the lower step.One rope would work.
Looking at the weather and having climbed what we wanted made us decide to bail a day early. We rapped twice down the waterfall to get into Bird Basin. Others might but there is no way I'd down climb that thing with a heavy pack. It took us a quick hour and a half to get to bird creek camp by Devore creek. It was getting dark when we rolled in.
Day Five
Walked out to catch the bus at Harlequin bridge.Spotted many salmon,pretty colors and dumb birds.
Caught the bus and stopped at the world famous bakery. Don't let the bus driver know that you like rhubarb!
Got on the boat and got to Fields Point just as it started to rain.This was one of the most relaxing,beautiful and satisfying trips I've ever taken.We had zero time restraints other than getting home at the end of the week. That, good company and a little single malt thrown in made for a great five days.
more pics in my gallery or here
Gear Notes:
light rack,twin 8mm 40 meter ropes
axe and spixes were dead weight
Approach Notes:
planes,trains and automobiles
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"Spicy Pony Head" Another side splitter from kasper hauser sketch comedy. Audio only and Quicktime.
http://centralsnark.files.wordpress.com/2007/05/spicy_pony_head.mp3
waiter:"There is no pony in the soup."
customer:"What do you mean?"
waiter: "Pony is very near this soup as if is drinking a beautiful fountain."
customer: "Like a pony head garnish?"
waiter: "OK"
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http://www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page26.html
This page is outta Bob Kerry's Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona. The whole book is published online with his blessing and is a great resource. I'm curious if there were access issues as the note stated on the posted link.How was the approach? Not that I could get my fat ass up any of the routes....
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I'm going at the end of March and meeting some friends from NewYork. I've been there three times and have done many of the classics. I was just wondering if anyone has been there in the last four years and checked out some the new stuff at Sheepshead or elswhere and could give me some beta. Single pitch,sport and longer trad/sport routes are all welcome. Oh, yeah, its really great suck down there.
Thanks!
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I'm curious if the access fund sign is still up there at crap crag.
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It seems it is "Eeeeep!" as opposed to the "Meeeep!" I've been using for years. I thought I was a pro Pika caller.
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http://www.milkandcookies.com/link/65509/detail/
Right. So it's a squirrel but it's still a rodent. Bonus candy bar thievery at the end is beautiful. I worry about the time/life ratio of the person who made this contraption...
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A: He looks like a younger version of David Lynch.
B: I once made it to razorback ridge on Garfield in Tevas in my burner dayz!Boots were elswhere.....
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Or good morning as the Chip-A-Saw say.
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Does anyone remember the tag on the road cut just beyond the vantage parking lot? It read "Cornholling Gruntlog". I will never forget the concept....
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A shot of aiding on a red drink umbrella would be most excellent!
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Nice adventure!
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That crimper over the lip looks plenty chipped to me.
+1
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Sloe Children was named after a band if I recall. Maybe the route could be another band name like Boogie Brown or something.
If it was up to me I would name it after my favorite (named) band "Black Mayo".
Vantage Porta-Johns
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
if i ever inferred that i caried others people poo with intent ... then i did not mean that