telemarker
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Posts posted by telemarker
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"We have a new lead though. Does anyone know a woman climber named Jade from Vancouver?"
I really hope this gets resolved before my 10pm bedtime. Otherwise sleep will be impossible to come by.
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That's what I'm talking about! An honest to goodness sufferfest! This is why I love cc.com!
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And grumpy too. Go ahead youth, just try asking me if I know what climb I'm about to do. Or if I know where Air Guitar is. I'd be more than happy to ignore you.
And I suck at climbing and don't really care.
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Anyone want to take advantage of the perfect weather tomorrow by taking a couple laps on Snow Creek Wall?
PM or email:
Touring29@gmail.com
Thanks!
John
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Just a friendly reminder folks.
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Found at Lower Castle Rock.
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Excellent! I looked at a few of the photos first and knew exactly who authored this TR. You have a very distinct style
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$25 will get you this year's adjama harness. I have climbed in it about a dozen times, so it has lots of life left to it. It is size M-L. I have a 32" waist, and it fits snug with not much tail left over. Has a small haul loop in the back and quick release leg loops.
Personally, this thing does not fit me and I think the adjustments Petzl made to gear loop positioning sucks big time. Hence the low price. You may like it.
I don't want to ship, so meet me in Leavenworth for a handoff!
PM or email: touring29@gmail.com
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You're the King of Energy! Nice TR Sean!
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Jesus dude. How did you keep your rope out of the way of the falling flake?!
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Or how about this... you could solo aid TRL up to M & M Ledge (P7) over two days, bivi on the ledge, though it is sloping and full of loose rocks. Rap back to the base. There are fixed anchors from the top of pitch 5 to the ground. Then, spend a day and a half solo aiding Liberty Crack next door up to top of the rotten block. Fixed anchors will get you back down.
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I have googled it, but I still can't find a topo with aid grades on it. Maybe you have had better luck, if so please send the URL.
Like Sol and others have said, it's pretty much a free climb with free grades, meaning clean, straightforward aid placements should be anticipated. And like others have warned, and i can attest, there's a whole lot of lower angle, wandry 5.8 climbing near the top that would make hauling a nightmare.
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Steph Abegg dug up this trip report from Captain Panther in August 2011. Check out this excerpt:
The reason for this TR is right above the pressure chamber. About 15 feet after exiting the pressure chamber, you traverse out left, with your feet in a huge horizontal crack. There is a large flake, about 3 feet by 2 feet right here. That bitch is quite loose and ready to go at a touch. Be warned, I was terrified of that flake, I would not yard on it too hard. With a 70 m rope its totally reasonable to climb past it and pull the small roof above and left, build an anchor above that and belay your partner up. Take that high option or build a belay way lower, just a few feet above the chamber as in Jens’ and Sol’s video.
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His solo speed ascent of The Nose is one of his best, and boldest videos of an athlete in action that I had ever seen. It never gets old. Sorry to hear of his passing.
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This past Saturday there was a significant, climber caused rockfall event near the top of Hyperspace. We were on the last pitch of Iconoclast when it happened, and witnessed a huge chunk of rock first free fall then strike the wall below, showering the lower part with hundreds of pieces of shrapnel. As busy as that side of the crag was, it's astounding that no one (including the climber who unintentionally cut it loose) was killed or injured.
The chunk of rock in question was the large flake just up and left of the top of the Pressure Chamber, where some climbers like to set the belay.
I'd be very interested to hear the first hand account of what went down, because by what I was able to piece together, it sounded like as close a call one can come to "getting the chop."
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Where were you when the mountain blew?
Mt. St. Helens shake n bake mountain mix.
Ok. That's all I got...
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Well done Kyle and Bryce! Kyle haven't you heat Dragontail to death by now??
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For sale is a pair of the La Sportiva Lace shoes. Size 46. They were very recently resoled at Yosemite Bum resoles, the shoe's first resole. If you're worried about the larger size, they'll feel more like 45's to 45 1/2.
These have a lot of life left and surprisingly have little to no stank. I'd like to avoid shipping. Just meet me in Leavenworth some weekend and we can do the transaction.
PM or email: touring29@gmail.com
John
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All on her own without anyone's shoulders to stand on.
That's not exactly the case; Lynn joined in the game quite late and after Scott and Brooke had each put in significant effort over several years on the project...
Pretty sure Brooke and Scott had penises, and decades of achievement of other male climbing peers to draw upon for inspiration.
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Lynn Hill, The Nose free in a day. The most significant female climbing accomplishment has been done. To free climb 5.14b at ~2,500', after climbing 26 pitches previously, one of them being 5.13c and a smattering of 5.12 and a lot of 5.11. All on her own without anyone's shoulders to stand on. This milestone to me makes one pitch of 5.15 just not really exciting.
To me I think the next big female milestone will be who will free solo Half Dome's RNWF.
That's my opinion from my armchair! Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your topic.
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"I had found no trip reports or any record of previous ascents, and had no accurate information on the steepness or length of the couloir."
Really? Have you used Google before? I just Googled and found the first two links describing this couloir in detail with photos.
Anyway, nice going busting out a long day in the mountains. It's always a pleasure to walk a dry 8 Mile Road.
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Dogs that have that half bark, half whining as their owner(s) climb is the worst. No amount of leashing solves that annoyance.
But pet parents, don't get me wrong! I still really, really love your dog. Honest. I do.
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No we just need some mandatory personal responsibility. Not every climber has a dog that needs to be leashed.
actually they do need to be leashed.
Also, the dog could have knocked rocks down on climbers below. And there are other safety issues. What if your "friendly" ( they are always friendly) attacks a belayer or destracts one by going for a free lunch or a pee on the rope/gear/pack. The possibilities for bad outcomes are numerous, and with the crowds there, the number of permutations of conflict interactions
Yes the AAC's Accidents in North American Mountaineering is rife with accounts of fatalities caused by dogs at the crag.
The real danger lies in having your dog belay you though. They are very easily distracted.
And the not having opposable thumbs as well. That could be an issue while belaying.
Beehive on Snow Creek Wall...
in Alpine Lakes
Posted
There's a flat belay area that we've always used, 30' below and climber's left of that bolted anchor that puts you more in line with the RPM roof.