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Everything posted by telemarker

  1. Out of control dogs at the Coulee

    actually they do need to be leashed. Also, the dog could have knocked rocks down on climbers below. And there are other safety issues. What if your "friendly" ( they are always friendly) attacks a belayer or destracts one by going for a free lunch or a pee on the rope/gear/pack. The possibilities for bad outcomes are numerous, and with the crowds there, the number of permutations of conflict interactions Yes the AAC's Accidents in North American Mountaineering is rife with accounts of fatalities caused by dogs at the crag. The real danger lies in having your dog belay you though. They are very easily distracted. And the not having opposable thumbs as well. That could be an issue while belaying.
  2. An ode to Frenchman Coulee

    You're trying to herd cats, coming up with a complicated solution to an impossible situation. Keep it simple: Ban camping at Frenchman's Coulee from March to mid May. There are other places to camp, and this may cut down on those craggers who can't seem to climb in groups of fewer than 5 people.
  3. Solo TR Setups?

    That's a good point Tom. But I suspect getting a second mini/micro would the optimal system, like you have. It will sink in one of these days!
  4. Solo TR Setups?

    Can you post a photo or to to illustrate? As requested Rad! Name the route for bonus points... Ascending past a cruxy section: Escaping the system:
  5. Solo TR Setups?

    I always solo TR with a Petzl Basic on my harness. I solo TR on one strand with a single mini Trax. If I can't get past a crux, I will ascend the rope until I can reach climbable ground again. I attach the basic above the mini, with a biner attached to the basic. Grab the strand below the mini Trax and Merely thread it through the biner in the basic and you have a 2:1 haul system to ascend the rope as far as you want, since the mini or micro will lock automatically as you ascend. To escape, attach a qd and long runner to the basic, stand up in the runner and clip in short to the basic. The mini Trax should be unweighted by now. Merely remove the mini Trax and attach your rappel device. Stand up high in the long sling you have attached to the basic still, yard in slack on your rappel device, and the basic should now be free to remove, and you're set to rappel. Simple....
  6. Moving quickly on winter alpine terrain

    I'm really biting my tongue here Curt. I think your "younger/stronger" partners would beg to differ with your mindset on this one.
  7. best of cc.com I made an amazing geologic discovery!

    In the interest of old thread revival, can someone tell me if this mysterious discovery was ever resolved or revealed to us? I tried looking through the link but had to stop after two pages or I would have slit my throat. Thanks!
  8. Favorite Quote

    Favorite climbing acronym: "STFUALYSM" --Ben Stanton
  9. For Trade actually...La Sportiva Katana Lace shoe, sz 46. They're in used shape and need a new resole soon after a few more trips outside. No holes in the rand. They've got some life left in them. Yours for a six pack of 10 Barrel Apocalypse IPA or Ninkasi IPA. John
  10. FS: La Sportiva Katana Lace, Sz 46

    I cannot give up beer. Just try to go climbing and refuse a cold IPA afterwards. Imposible.
  11. Climb: Colchuck Balanced Rock-West Face Date of Climb: 7/29/2005 Trip Report: Kyle Flick and climbed this outstanding route last Saturday. We left Cashmere at 3.30am, were hiking by 4.15am. We reached the base and were climbing by 9am thereabouts, and topped out at 5pm, 8 hours on route. I don't have too much more to add, other than the following points I wasn't able to gather from past TR's: 1. If you're plannign on doing this route, use Michael Layton and Skyclimb's TR from last year. Layton's points and gear recommendation are spot on. Plus, it's a good read. 2. Going by the Nelson guide, I was able to combine pitches 1 (short 5.10+ crack), 2 (5.7 chimney to pedestal top) and 3 (EXCELLENT corner crack to double cracks) into one long 200 foot pitch. The last part of this pitch had some funky manteling onto gravel and grass. A bit spooky. 3. Since Kyle and I are free climbing duds, I direct aided most of the 5.11 long crack, while Kyle jugged it. Kyle then direct aided the traversing under the roof pitch. This made it go by really quickly. 4. You'll never forget the feeling of hanging out underneath that enormous roof. No picture does it justice. 5. The 5.9+ corner crack is really nice. Easy aid at the top. 6. The 5.9(?) chimney is really as bad as Layton describes: "It will utterly destroy you." Not only that, but there are basically three chimneys of similar difficulty. 7. Easy simul-climbing for the last 400' or so. 8. Lotsa ticks. I pulled numerous off my rope and pant legs. 9. This is THE climb to do in the middle of a swealtering summer. We were climbing all day in the shade, in nice cool temps, and didn't have direct sun until the last scrambling pitch. Some pictuers: If you look closely, there is a party of three climbers just left of the roof. They had caught up with us when we were just finishing off the long 5.11 pitch. We thought we would be holding them up for the rest of the climb. However, they got bogged down somehow. The last we saw of them when we were on the west side of Colchuck Lake, they were just finishing the chimney pitch. They must've been benighted. The Great Roof Flick cleaning the pitch. Aiding easily out from underneath the roof. The belay under the roof is fixed with two fixed stoppers and two pins. The obligatory shot of Stuart. Fear this chimney. It actually has a good hand crack most of the way and protects really well, it's just the exposure when trying to get into it. Flick finishing up. Gear Notes: Use Layton's recommendation if you don't climb 5.11 alpine trad. We found two 3.5 camalots very helpful. Approach Notes: Take the left-hand gully for the approach, which is shorter than hiker's right.
  12. Climb: LIberty Bell-LCIAD Date of Climb: 7/9/2005 Trip Report: I know, I know. Liberty Crack TR's are about as commonplace as the W. Ridge of Prusik, among others. And doing it in a day doesn't even raise eyebrows. So, I'll post a few pics of mine and Kyle Flick's one day climb of Lib Crack. Basics: Started in Wenatchee at 2.30am, got to the base of the route by 6am, and was on route by 6.30am, topping out by 5.30pm. Not blazing by any means, but satisfying for a couple aid and free climbing gumbies that we are. Here's what I found out about the route that I didn't glean from prior TR's. The first pitch is the trickiest aid all told, though Kyle had no problem. The first pin encountered on the first pitch flexes under body weight. I was able to move it back and forth with my fingers while cleaning. The third pitch hook move is easily skipped by top stepping to a solid yellow alien placement. Being 6'1" and having a +6 inch ape index helps too. The rotten block pitch is the shittiest pitch, leading or following all told. After the rotten block pitch, I was able to climb a full rope length to pitch 8 (from the "Clint" topo), bypassing pitch 7, and the alternative higher belay. Kyle aiding up a wet first pitch. Flick jugging Lith Lip pitch. Jug on P. Three The top of pitch 5, long sustained stemming corner. Pitch 10 nice corner pitch. Alpinedreamer and partner topping out on NW Corner, NEWS. View from the top. Gear Notes: Rope 'n Rack.
  13. Snow Creek Wall, Sunday 3/8

    Hello! Anyone up for a couple laps on SCW this Sunday? The wall looks reasonably free of snow, and Sunday it's supposed to be dry and warm. Outer Space/Iconoclast is my favorite link up for the early season. PM or email: touring29@gmail Thanks! John
  14. It's so funny how some things just don't change. I ran across this quote from Climbing Mag. 1996:
  15. Solo TR Setups?

    I've fallen a bunch, sometimes on a single crux section on the same section of the rope and never damaged the sheath. Also a thing to consider. After loading a mini Trax vs. Loading a micro Trax, the mini seems to bite into the sheath more than the micro and may need you to reach below the device unstick it to get it moving upwards again. The micro seems to "disengage" a lot smoother than the mini, maybe since the cam is narrower??
  16. Solo TR Setups?

    I thought of a few more details... Make sure your shirt is tucked into your pants and keep the front two gear loops free of any gear. That decreases the chance of anything interfering with your chosen catch device. On my mini, my friend used a dremmel to file off the horn that keeps the cam open so there's no way for me to accidentally leave it in the open position. I always use a DMM style belay master that won't cross load. Finally, a quadrupedal length spectra sling can be threaded through the minis carabiner hole to fashion a simple chest harness to keep the mini even closer to the engaged position, especially reassuring on overhanging pitches.
  17. Solo TR Setups?

    For a few years now I've used one mini, dynamic rope, and slings/biners for anchor. Simple and quick. My friend uses two micros for a more redundant system. Blake recommends a static rope which I wouldn't since sometimes you do fall when you're close to the anchor. When this happens, even with a dynamic rope it's kind of jarring.
  18. An ode to Frenchman Coulee

    A camping ban between March and May would give the other WA crags time to dry out, thereby allowing better distribution of climbers throughout WA instead of everyone converging on the one crag that's dry and climbable in that time frame.
  19. An ode to Frenchman Coulee

    How about an all-out ban on overnight camping from March 1 through the end of April? There are official campgrounds in the general area (Quincy, Wenatchee, etc) where climbers can stay if they want to make a weekend out of it, considering the length and expensr of travel from Seattle/PDX/Vancouver BC/Spokane). Seems to me a camping ban would be a lot easier to enforce than clean camping regulations.
  20. An ode to Frenchman Coulee

    I'm just not sure if a campground is warranted. Vantage is slammed at most two months out if 12, two days out of the week. It's Busy maybe for 4 months out of the year. The rest of the time, mid week and beyond it's blissfully tranquil. It just seemed like heaven and earth were moved to get a latrine installed. I couldn't imagine the work and bureaucracy involved to get an entire campground in place. Now if the "west side city folk" wanted to really help matters, maybe open a brew pub in George! And nice send Sol! In the rain no less!
  21. An ode to Frenchman Coulee

    "I've personally vowed to never return on a weekend." Well this sounds like a good start...
  22. Mt Stuart accident

    A slide for life down the Northeast Face?! They're fortunate they're still alive. In hard snow conditions and enough momentum they could have easily continued over the top of the Ice Cliff Glacier. Hope they have a speedy and full recovery.
  23. OCD and Rock Climbing

    Have you ever dealt with or are dealing with, Obsessive/Compulsive Disorder and rock climbed? Or had a regular climbing partner who struggled with this disorder? How did the experience go in such an endeavor as detailed as climbing, where there's a high importance on doing things correctly. This is a serious inquiry. You are welcome to PM me if you don't want to publicly respond to this post. My inquiry is genuine and personal. Thank you
  24. OCD and Rock Climbing

    Common stereotypes and misconceptions aside as exemplified in previous posts, I would suspect that the mindfulness aspect of climbing would be a strength to those suffering from OCD. I was wondering if this were true and was hoping to hear back from those climbers who are actually afflicted with this disorder.
  25. What Are Your Favorite and/or Best Climbs?

    1. Have Climbed: **The Nose, El Cap; **Half Dome RNWF; **Serenity/Sons; **Beckey/Chouinard, S. Howser; **Hyperspace, SCW; 2. Capable of but have not climbed (the goals): **the NIAD in under 15 hours; **the NIAD in under 12 hours; **the NIAD in under 10 hours; **Rostrum N. Face; **Edge of Space, SCW; **Thin Red Line, mostly free **Grand Wall; **High Plains Drifter, Squamish; 3. Admire but will never climb: **All along the watchtower, N. Howser; **Astroman, Washington Column; **The Nose, El Cap/ RNWF Half Dome under 24 hour link up; **That Colchuck Reality Pitch and route, CBR; **Freeway, Squamish