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Everything posted by telemarker

  1. ROUTE DEEE-VEHL-UP-MINT! There. All better. christ almighty.
  2. Spark Split bindings $50

    Look for the f icon on your flip phone Jake.
  3. dude I sent the yellow route on the NE face of stuie, its between the red route and the black/white route. was so rad! the route setter is sick, it finishes with this massive dyno to a knarly no hands stance to micro crimps. completely sick! sorry I just couldn't resist. no offence t-mark This is funny.
  4. Crowding becomes everyone's problem.
  5. I think routes like this take pressure off other multi-pitch crags, like Snow Creek Wall for example. Rad and Darin are actually doing a great service to us all by filling the increasing demand for routes. More power to them. We need more route setters. People willing to shell out their own money and valuable time off to expand the climbing field. Climbing isn't getting any less popular.
  6. Yo! I'm looking to get out this Saturday in the Leavenworth area. So many fun options out there, from classic to obscure. Send me a PM or email: touring29@gmail.com John
  7. Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Hyperspace Date: 9/24/2015 Trip Report: I get to climb with my good friend Dean about as often as Pope Francis visits the U.S. As luck would have it, the Pope was in town ripping congress a new one. This could only mean that Dean was able to acquire executive approval to crag for a half day with me yesterday. To get the fullest value of our abbreviated day, Hyperspace was the clear choice. We were hiking by 1pm from the car with a quickened pace, knowing that Civil Twilight was around 7:30pm. 2:30pm we are Geared up and ready to go, we ran into a couple who had just hiked down from their day on Outer Space. "Which route you guys doing?" Uh, Hyperspace. "The whole thing? In the dark?" I'm climbing with Dean, who is synched with Pope Francis. We'll be fine... We blast, me leading the first remorse traversey pitch. Pope Dean will get all the crux pitches today, a fact he didn't know beforehand, as I rarely get to relax on follow. This is what it looks like when you find out you get to lead Psychopath. On he goes and redpoints it comfortably. I breeze through the next pitch and Deano arrives to find out he gets to lead the next crux yellow wall. A bit more apprehension... He fires it off, and declares it more of a challenge than psychopath. I get the next 5.10 pitch, one of my favorites on the route. Saint Dean arrives and graciously, selflessly offers me the Pressure Chamber pitch. I've done it plenty of times, so in good conscience, I could not have possibly taken this lead opportunity from him. So, it dawns on him that this is his turn... It's a long, enduro pitch with one of the best sting in the tails of any piece of climbing I've done. He does an admirable job, freeing all of it after a couple rests. Much better than my first time leading it. He'll cruise it next time... I finish the last bit of difficulty, employing the Cascade Kneeā„¢ to get my old bones into the proper layback to get around the final roof. Belaying Dean at the top, I'm visited by momma goat and her kid. Kid, who's coat should be fluffy white and thick by this time, instead is dirty and thin with crusted diarrhea on its hindquarters. She looks gaunt, severely underweight and is walking like an old man. Momma goat, healthy and vibrant, patiently watches over her dying kid. She makes brief eye contact with me as she walks slowly in front of her struggling baby, completely quiet. She will not make it through this winter, or even Fall probably. They saunter on out of sight down the backside. Dean tops right at 7:20. We beat Civil Twilight. We're quite pleased with ourselves. We run down to the packs and Icicle Brewery by 9pm for a lovely Bootjack toast to the half-day.
  8. Mary Jane Dihedral questions

  9. [TR] Ingalls Peak - East Ridge 9/5/2015

    A six pack?! Six beers?! A couple cases of craft beer should be your starting point.
  10. it's that time again! the Xth annual rope up.

    Any chance at a RopeUp 2015, oly??? I'm back in the States now and would really like to get out for some casual climbing and drinking with friends before the snow flies (since I haven't climbed any since before I left for Afghanistan way back in 2012). Nonsense. I bet you've be e-climbing nonstop. Welcome back!
  11. Shame on you! You can never hike Asgard Pass too much. FWIW Flick and I approached up Crystal Creek the first time too, and found it to be a pleasant but long hike, with the Approach gully to the Flagpole as downright sucky.
  12. "If you want to ascend the flagpole gully, you'll have to fight thick brush..." Or you can just approach via Stuart Lake trail and Asgard Pass, and climb it in a reasonable day... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=866340
  13. [TR] Crystal Lake Tower - SW Rib 8/16/2015

    Burly and well described Val! Uh, next time approach up and over Asgard Pass I would recommend, though it sounds like you got to redline the adventuro-meter going the other way. Thanks for the TR!
  14. Mary Jane Dihedral questions

    I'd say it's clean enough. But still gritty in spots. I've added a few photos here, taken by Steph Abegg when we climbed it earlier in the year http://www.mountainproject.com/v/mary-jane-dihedral/107781733 Only the first pitch anchors need updating. As seen in the MP photo, it can be backed up with a couple cams above. The rest of the bolts are good enough I suppose. Despite the dirt, which isn't too bad, it's a very worthy climb!
  15. outer space, leavenworth

    If they're from Boulder they're going to hate Outer Space.
  16. outer space, leavenworth

    That's a bit of a stretch....
  17. outer space, leavenworth

    I just checked the Outer Space sign out sheet. You're good to go between 9 am to about 2 pm! Hit it dude! And good luck finding any beta on O/S. People tend to be tight lipped about the route.
  18. [TR] Mount Stuart - Complete North Ridge 7/19/2015

    Yeah, this shot is a winner.
  19. Sunday 8/9 Leavenworth

    Hello! Anyone interested in getting out climbing in the Leavenworth area? I am up for alpine objectives or cragging on Snow Creek Wall. Either is fine by me. PM or email: touring29@gmail.com Thanks! John
  20. Don't you mean the obligatory shot of Ivan in a drunken coma underneath a boulder?
  21. Well done! Sounds like you put in your time. My friend and I climbed the nose a few days after that accident and saw the same grisly blood streaks. What a great climb. It's so much harder than you thought. But in many ways, easier too. For us the crux was the heat as well. And not enough water. And crowds. Other than that, good fun!
  22. Snow Creek Wall,

    No one is claiming the stuck full length half rope halfway through the remorse pitch?! Really?! The thing is brand new! Looks like it got stuck on the pull but an end touches there ground. I tried pulling it from several different angles with no luck...
  23. Trip: Enchantments - Acid Baby Date: 7/11/2015 Trip Report: I wasn't going to post any TR ad there have been plenty of reports to come out. But my buddy Loren and I had such a great time on this route, that I feel compelled to post a little something in acknowledgement to Mike, Rolf and Dan's vision of this route. The climbing is engaging from start to finish. And as an added pleasant surprise, the 5.10+ rating isn't soft. At least it felt that way to me. Photos... The lake...
  24. [TR] Enchantments - Acid Baby 7/11/2015

    I may be wrong Aaron but that gulley looks like a pile of crap. And you miss out on this! And the normal descent deposits you nearly at the top of Asgaard Pass, which is the real reason you climb Acid Baby.