DCramer
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Posts posted by DCramer
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Your point about the location is spot on. How anyone can become very upset about a couple of bolts there is almost beyond logic. It is hundred yards from a several hundred foot high quarried wall. Near a 4 meter diameter tunnel and a dozen or so huge stabilizing bolts, the two new bolts seem minor. In any event the film crew seems to have been receptive to climber concerns and stopped bolting.
I think you are wrong about climbers not being good stewards.
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The WCC is discussing what it can do to help reduce car theft and vandalism. In short there isn’t a simple easy effective solution to this problem. I would encourage everyone to report all break ins to the sheriff’s department.
Back in the good old days I once left my pack in the parking lot when I left for the day and a fast driving climber who I barely knew dropped it off at my parents’ house before I got home. Index turned sucky later that summer when someone stole my pack loaded with all my gear.
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Ha! Didn't even notice the dates. I climbed DHLA a couple times last year before July. Never had a clue about the closure, and based on the number of people I had to wait behind, nobody else did either. The birds didn't seem to mind. Wonder if the base jumpers are aware.
It was just a few weeks ago.
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That's the flyer from last year but the closure area is the same. End date is 7/1/14 unless there is no nest. I placed flyers out at Index several weeks ago. Maybe they need replacing.
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Probably half the routes at Index are sport routes!
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After observing bird/climber interactions yesterday the wildlife biologist enlarged the closure area. David-Holland is now within the closure.
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Nice a new route!
HREV has seen several ascents
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I think the WCC's mighty product distribution center has more than a couple cases of books that (hopefully) will soon be available at other retail locations.
Support the WCC and Edgeworks too!
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The only guidebook worth $100 is Private Dancer. I've been insanely busy lately (as in the the last year or so) but I do have guidebooks still available. I'd like to work something out so the WCC rather than me gets any profits. Details to follow.
That said a new improved guide book is in the works. The intent is to use it to fund on going Index expenses. (ie gear upgrade, toilet pumping) It won't be ready this year for sure.
(Ryan let's figure something out)
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Been working too much. Jon, I'll let you know about Saturday the negotiations are at a delicate point right now.
Mike - Here is my drug of choice...
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Anne W/ an E has one really nice route - a straight up flaring finger hand crack. The rest are no so stellar.
Directly above is a short curving crack that is most likely filthy. Brontosauers Are Born.... It may look goofy but its a fun tips crack.
Blondie Bluff's routes are short thin hand cracks.
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There should be porta-potties at Index fairly soon!
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Mark -
Marmot, Feathered Frieds and Second Ascent should have copies. If not in stock, make a donation to the Index Fund of $18 (or more) and I'll send you a copy.
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I found a ring on an old rotting stump in the Free Area last weekend. PM me if you lost one.
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Actually it is typical to get a new name IF the person who frees it so chooses. Perhaps the most famous example, East Face of Washington Column or as it is known today after Kauk, Bachar, and John Long freed it, Astroman.
Traditionally aid routes (or even routes with incidental aid) at the Town Walls are not renamed when free climbed.
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Are you still in town? I just got back.
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grab an old rope & a brush and go scrub a new route
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I say the more "new" routes the better. Someone should go clean off Gold Bar Girls.
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How can 13 innings of sunny baseball surrounded by hot baseball girls be anything other than great?
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Ivan -
Still lots of new lines on the Upper Wall to do - come get 'em. No permission slip required.
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How did you change your mind Peter?
Been a long time since I've climbed at Castle, it always seemed like Washington had so much better stuff....that's probably why it's not as popular, cause you guys are so rich in great climbs and super areas. [/envy] LOL!
Well at first I was against bolts at the sacred place called Castle Rock - Now I think that they have their place. It's funny how people argue against bolts spreading all over and then they argue about keeping existing areas bolt free. Seems like a contradiction to me.
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.11a sounds fine to me. The route narrative includes the following: The technical crux, a face move off this ledge, can be avoided by a traverse in from the right. An 11a move should be kinda hard – and it is literally one move. It seems in line with Yosemite. Eg the Calf (.11b) on the Apron has harder moves than the TF boulder problem. TF seems a bit easier than the Big Toes variation. TF wasn’t in the “original” Index guide but was mentioned in the Beckey guide as being 5.10. What’s Angel crack rated these days?
I seem to remember that when I first climbed TF we were placing #2 Friends (tight) in the hand crack section and now #2.5s are the ticket. Is it possible the crack has expanded a bit?
Not noting a bouldery move seems fishy to me.....I can say that I have onsight 3rd classed an .11b route. I usually omit the part about the .11b ending a body length or so above the ground and the remainder of the route is only easy 5th class.
Index Bird Closures?
in Access Issues
Posted
Not yet determined. WDFW is actively monitoring and hasn't made a decision yet. A few weeks ago they thought a decision would be made in early April. Until then everything is open unless you run into birds and then the best course of action is a quick retreat.