DCramer

Looks like a couple people are interested. I am incredibly busy right now but I'll pull them out of the pile this weekend. Just to reiterate: there are kinks and broken strands. Lowebacker send me your address.

Are going in the trash unless someone wants them...various sizes and if I can find them them a couple like new #0.

I can't upload photos anymore.

Andy - WRT Nightingale: I seem to remember a fixed pin or two but I could be wrong. My last experience with that route was about 25 years ago. I should note that with the exception of the ROTC anchor (I think it is well over 10 years old now) and the Supercrack anchors all the fixed gear I mentioned has been around 20-40 years. The anchor on top if In Search may be gone now. Since the fires the trail off of Midnight has become very eroded and unstable. A rap route off the crag is certainly a good idea that will reduce the environmental impact of climbers. The attachment shows a classic bolt (not mentioned above)on Midnight.

Someone must have spilled the beans. Since it's now common knowledge: the new anchors are part of an “enchainment” circuit to get into “Nose In A Day" shape. Its too bad that Midnight is closed during the training season. Here's the idea: Starting on the left and moving right. Climb as follows other variations possible. Yellow Bird, TZ and Notion p1 only. Rap from anchor. Most TR TZ because of the large gear needed. On TR is the crux the lower bolted section and not the funky cracks? Nightengale is way too dirty at this point but I think it would be worth cleaning as the crack is good and there is (was?) fixed gear to aid thru the crux. In Search rap from anchor or if not up for Steven Pass continue to the right. This avoids Black Widow and Easter. If you climb these walk to ROTC anchor to rap. If you're tired consider Widow because you can pull on bolts (Wide crux section) as needed. Stevens or Wild Traverse to anchor. On Stevens it's easy to pull thru face crux on bolts. TC, ROTC rap from anchor. If honed use Degoba anchor and lead or TR it. Crux can be aided on bolts - not a crack route! Roller Coaster (instead of moving left) move right and rap from anchor. It would be nicer if it were possible to pendo over to the midpoint anchor on Solar/Plumb from the bolt but unfortunatley it's in the wrong spot. So despite being a crack feast the circuit is lacking in pendo training. Solar Flare/Plumbline Rap from anchor. If too tired for Plumb rap from short anchor. JAM Session is possible but not popular becuase it's a slab. Crux can be aided (bolts) remember to stop short at Plumbline Anchor to rap down. Currently there is no good anchor atop the last pitch of the Wild Traverse (old crappy bolts but no good anchor) so it's best not to climb this route because it's a pain getting to the rap route to Supercrack. Rap to Supercrack anchor and then rap to base. Either TR or lead then rap yet again out to trail. The short overhang routes on the bottom right (eg Frog Suicide and Diamond) are a bit scruffy and although fun routes really don't fit into the NIAD theme. due to their short crux sections. BTW - Send me a PM letting me know who told you.

And to think you didn't believe me when I told you that Wa rock climbing was hopping. When was the last time you were in the enchantments? 1970s? Forget the mountains let's go cragging!

On a couple of occasions the WCC (www.washingtonclimbers.org) has been asked by State Parks to help remove graffiti. They supplied a pretty caustic spray. I think it was purchased from a normal hardware store. It wass stinky but did the job...albiet with a lot of elbow grease. One time I had to hang off a rope to do the removal. I brought an old harness along with a beater rope and threw them away right after the job was finished. First try a wire brush and if that alone doesn't work, I wouldn't worry too much about being enviro - you will be spraying directly on the paint itself and not the surrounding area. D

Sunshine - There are no secret routes otherwise I'd take you up on your offer.

If anyone wants to buy this rare gem for $75.00, I will be happy to sell you one and donate the full amount of the purchase to the WCC.

There aint no "pushing" by Bachar that was the ideal. At Squamish and Index that ideal is basically unworkable for most routess it was abandoned pretty early on. As far as magazines I would say that they are "selling" rather than "pushing."

Jens – I would agree with your assessment of ST but apply it to climbing media as a whole. Over the past few years from what little I have observed too much of the climbing media is focused around one upping someone else’s accomplishments. I have nothing against ST but the entire media vibe lately isn't very inspiring. It just seems like a marketing driven dead end. That said there have been lots of inspiring things happening out at Index lately some incredibly hard and others fairly moderate.

Funny thing I just went to Supertopo and saw this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=613015 Rudy - arent you in Yos? I guess I meant ideal of yesteryear. The ideal has very infrequently ever even been the norm. I guess after reading all the mags I am just cynical. My own belief is having fun at what you're doing is what matters.

trad use to mean ground up on sight. Somehow trad has evolved into something else. Doing that on this route sounds like it would be a huge step up. Scoping gear out on TR is very different. Think of Wolfgang falling off Masters Edge and grounding. After reading a few climbing mags for the first time in years at the gym last week I can't escape the feeling that everything is part of someone's marketing plan.

Jon Nelson and I spent several days in a snow storm cleaning a route at the Upper Wall. He went off to Illinois for school and I thought we’d get back to it when he came back. About a year later I was giving someone a ride back to Town (from Index) and he was telling me about how he had taken over the line. I said with so many plums it was lame that he would jump on it without even asking what our plans were. He worked on it for a while and added some bolts with the intention to add more. Someone else walked by saw the bolts and thought it was a completed route and flashed the FA. Karma is a wonderful thing.

I'll take the #6 is its still available. Are you in Montana?

The Travellers Guide raised several thousand dollars - every dollar raised was given away to help climber related causes. Dave and I spearheaded the TG but quite a few climbers offered input including yourself. Reviving the TG in some form as an ongoing source of funds for the WCC would be a good thing but that is another issue altogether. Survey type guides seem to be perfectly suited to fundraising activities A month ago there were still Index guides at REI. I have a bunch in boxes. There is certainly a market. I have been very lax in marketing. The existense of a market is not an issue. Neither would be funding new editions. Producing a guide is easy, I am more interested in finding a new process...... Again feel free to email or pm me ideas or comments especially if you are interested in contributing to (an Index) ratings/quality poll or if you have a desire to revive and improve the old TG.

I’ll sell you one Blake. I have a bunch. By the way I am not sure PMS or Backountry Essentials ever stocked SVR. I have been racking my brain trying to think up the best way SVR could be turned into an ongoing source for helping to provide funds for local issues/needs. If anyone has any ideas let me know – via email or pm.

Detached (tendon tear to be more accurate) 1) Slapping for a hold on a low angle slab route...didn't even fall after the tear. 2) No warning signs. 3) No change in appearance in bicep before injury. It's a fairly common problem for "middle age" active people.

Anyone remember the old "S" grade that McKlane set up. I think the northwest should bring that back only change it to an "I" because I is the first letter of Intensity and our favorite place to climb.

Andy Burham once told me (right after leading it) that p1 of Japanese gardens was E4 6a.

Porter, I can only hope that people confuse me for you. BTW did you send in your questionnaire yet? http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Forums/showthread.php?p=1493#post1493

Update here!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=532062&tn=0#msg532069

The DNR is holding a public planning meeting on February 12, 2008. Details should be available here shortly.