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crazy_t

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Posts posted by crazy_t

  1. Spent a killer day in the mountain thanks to North Cascades Heli on Sunday (1-13). Thanks to Paul Butler for a very well run show, and Seamus for impeccable flying. Check out their site; a very worthy endeavor for a special occasion, and they have heli lifts to yurts etc. that are reasonable (and no, I don't work for them, just was quite impressed).

     

    We were too busy having fun most of the time to shoot photos while we were making runs unfortunately. There is some video, getting edited etc. and if it's worthy I'll put some up later.

     

    We got a "Westside pickup" meaning they flew over the park to Marblemount to begin and end our day. Here are a few shots that might be of interest to anyone considering going to the North Cascades during the good weather spell coming up. Unfortunately I was on the wrong side of the chopper for the good light on Forbidden, Buckner etc. on the way back but hopefully those of you who know the area well will find the pics useful. Another note, as of Sunday there were no visible snowmobile tracks on the road since the last storm cycle.

    DSC_0123.jpgDSC_0118.jpgDSC_0097.jpgDSC_0074.jpgDSC_0044.jpg

  2. A couple of weeks ago I got the 174 Kailas w/dynafits, love them. Skied a bit on hardpack, they were aggro. Then 5 days backcountry, they were floaty, solid, great. I'm 6' 175, have been skiing TMX or TMEX last 5 years, always 184's. I was a little concerned going to 174s, but they have been sick.

     

    I have heard a lot of good things about those Icelantics too!

  3. Hi guys,

     

    Two of my friends from the Elbrus area of Russia just let me know yesterday that they are flying in to LA on the 11th, to participate in the 1st round of the Nissan freeride comp tour, which culminates in Verbier. If I had known earlier, I would have flown down and driven them myself, set up their arrangements etc. But I'm booked.

     

    ?s-

    I need beta on affordable travel options from LAX (they arrive midday on the 11th) to Mammoth. Then once there, they need affordable/reasonable lodging. I don't know Mammoth at all; I've found a few things via their site but am looking for creative ways to save them $.

     

    They are really solid people; a married couple, she's an ethnic German (Bavarian), and he's an ethnic Balkarian (traditionally living in the mountains and valleys around Elbrus). They have been Russian extreme champions numerous times, and last year in the final Verbier comp she came in 4th overall for boarders; I think he was 6th+. They are full time guides on Elbrus, guiding the peak in summer and backcountry skiing in the winter. If you were able to help them out, and had plans to travel to Elbrus, they'd definitely hook you up. I have used them for local support and as guides for the 15 trips I have made to Elbrus; they are great folks, and very reliable.

     

    Please let me know if you know anything. I am living in Seattle so can make reservations for them with my credit card, etc. Post ideas here or on a pm, or call Tom on my cell at 206-396-2059.

     

    Thanks in advance for any help!

  4. The residency thing is pretty straightforward in CO, I did it at CU. I think it takes 1 year (maybe 2); just get a job and go to a CC if you want also. Then the tuition was really reasonable (although the cost of living overall in Boulder is not low- rents etc.).

     

    My college experience was a multi-year affair including "time outs" for a winter at a ski resort, climbing seasons and the like (I was always working though). At one point I lamented my extended career to a fellow CU student who looked at me and said (with no irony) "It's not a race, man!"

     

     

  5. Great team and great team play, they deserve it. Everyone stepped up their game after that mid cleveland series slump, everyone pitched in.

     

    I was sorry to see the Rockies not find their game and make it more interesting, felt bad for their fans too. But they didn't hit for crap. Deer in the headlights, or something.

     

    Suck it, Yankees!

  6. Seattle is a nice place to live, but you get in a car, get onto a highway, drive for a while to get to any quality rock, then drive back after your session. There's something a lot stronger about the experience when you can literally walk or bike from your home to the same quality stuff (or better), with a massive variety at your fingertips, and then walk or bike back. The experience from the session stays with you, at least that was my experience.

  7. Boulder, or better yet Eldorado Canyon- then you avoid a lot of the Boulder stuff.

     

    It's the strongest if you go by your 5 factors. Great variety of climbing (and square miles of routes on very high quality rock) in the immediate area (Boulder Canyon, Eldo, Flatirons, Flagstaff bouldering are all walkable or bikeable or use the car for a max 10-15 mins to farthest points), tons of epic areas within a 2 or 4 or 6 hour drive (RMNP, Lumpy, Vedauwoo, South Platte, Morrison all w/in 2 hours). Tons of ice as well. No glaciers though. Great BC skiing. Tons of 14ers to stay in altitude shape on. Killer weather, strong community, beautiful scenery, good "culture" points- tons of music, good food etc. Not as diverse as some places (although Vegas may be the only one on your short list that trumps it here) but it's pretty good and an international airport nearby.

     

    This will likely set off a shitstorm vs. CO or Boulder, seems like mentioning CO always does, but go there, you'll see. Eldo was the best place I have ever lived. Climbed or skied 300-325 days a year while working full time, on classic quality rock, mostly trad, lots of good partners, and fun nightlife. I would wake up and then walk 2 minutes into the Canyon and climb or solo up to 2000' of routes before working an 8 hour day in town, then go out for beers with friends and see good music. Wake up and repeat. Go check it out if you haven't, whatever people may say about "Boulder scene" etc., who cares? Literally thousands of high quality routes (tons of it multi-pitch trad) on great stone within a 20 minute hike, bike or drive, and weather to take advantage of it.

  8. I would recommend you get familiar with each of the companies via their websites and marketing materials, and through talking to their office staff. Each organization is going to have a different "vibe" or personality. They will tend to do things in their own style. All of the three companies you have referred to are solid, well-established and will do a good job. As a guide, I have found that some people respond better to one guiding style, while others prefer a different tone or set of guiding principles. Finding the group that feels more "like you" or speaks to your eventual goals will be important.

     

    If Rainier is in your plans, you'll have to go with one of them. If it's not neccessarily Rainier but rather any glacier experience you are looking for, you will have more choices. I would recommend using the same service for your Rainier or training as you will for Denali (I'm sure you're thinking this way). Best case scenario, you have a good first experience, find a guide you trust and click with, and that guide will be working Denali trips later so that you can sign on to his/her dates. It will save a lot of stress and you'll likely have more fun. Guides appreciate regular clients; they know what they are getting and can customize their instruction or style to suit you best.

     

    Think about your long-term goals as well. Do you want to lead your own trips, is that what excites you ultimately? Or do you see your climbing as a cool trip every year or two, progressing in challenge etc. A lot of my clients are really solid climbers, have learned a lot along the way and could do well on their own, but don't have the time to climb enough to stay on top of everything, live somewhere where there are no mountains, or can't find partners. Because of the circumstances of the professional and family lives, they can't pick up and become regular climbers. If that's you, getting a good relationship with a guide service and individual guides will be a good thing, and you'll want to go with a company that retains their good guides over the years.

     

    If you want these trips as a starting point to your own personal climbing, you'll find that most guides and companies are totally behind that and if you let your guides know, they will teach you to a different level. Most guides are guiding because they love the mountains (it's definitely not for the love of fat paychecks) so they can relate to that. It's good to have those types of individuals to refer to when getting gear, planning trips etc.

     

    Good luck, be safe and have a blast!

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