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crazy_t

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    Elbrus

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by crazy_t

    I've been there 14 times over the last 5 years, summer and winter (mostly guiding). It's a lot like a huge Mt. Baker, but in an interesting part of Russia, directly on the border with Georgia. The Caucasus are beautiful. I've always enjoyed my time there, and have a lot of good friends in the area. If you're a skier/ boarder, it makes for a good ski descent. Moscow and St. Petersburg are great if you haven't been there. Email me your # and I'd be glad to talk to you about it.

    Tele/Rando/Board battlecage

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    Telemarking- a lot of fun. A real rhythm, great in powder (you get way down into it) and good conditions. Many feel it is worth the learning curve, which can be challenging. Start at an area and get solid there before you move to the balance issues of telemarking in wild snow. Not as good in shitty conditions, but you can adapt. Nice light feeling underfoot. Easy for traveling around on long tours. Not as good with a big pack.

     

    AT- solid, easy if you are already an alpine skier. Comfy boots, good for climbing in too. Good for all types of snow, better than tele for shitty snow. Great for traveling, esp with a heavy pack.

     

    Snowboard- uphill comfort/ practicality depends on system. Snowboards perform the best downhill in most backcountry snow- deep pow, mank, ice crust... (and I'm not a boarder).

     

    It all depends on what you want to do. Many people do more than 1 style and pick the system for the day dependent on the objective and the conditions. If I'm going out for a day tour with buddies and the snow is nice, I'll usually tele. If I have a big pack or the snow is shittier, I'll usually AT. It's all fun, no matter what you decide to focus on first. No system is "best"; having fun in the snow with friends is best ) .

    [TR] Washington Pass- SW arete S Early 11/12/2004

    in North Cascades

    Posted · Edited by crazy_t

    Climb: Washington Pass-SW arete S Early

     

    Date of Climb: 11/11/2004

     

    Trip Report:

    There is snow from the parking lot and the hairpin. The packed trail peters out on the west side under the steep section around the slabs, necessitating mixed type hiking. About 1' snow, some of it fairly firm down low, firmer higher, but semi-slow and funky travel with rocks and trees covered etc. Snowshoes would be a good call. The hairpin side is in much better shape. I saw two guys ski down that side yesterday on scratchy conditions, have to give them bonus points for their efforts. Snow is pretty firm on that side and really doesn't get much light during the day. Up by the top it is hard, some light crampons and a light axe might be helpful. On S Early, small patches of snow but otherwise very enjoyable. It's beautiful up there, with new snow on all the peaks. The roads are very clear, but frost/ice was a problem driving down in the PM.

    Beta on Shuksan, Baker, Wa. Pass Area?

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Has anyone been on any of the glaciers or alpine routes this last weekend? Any info about roads and access? Am looking to get on a mellow route on a glaciated peak next week (without a superlong approach) and would appreciate any current beta and/or suggestions. Thanks.

     

    [ 04-29-2002, 02:23 PM: Message edited by: crazy t ]

    Good Routes to Repeat

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    South Ridge and SE arete S EarlyS Face PrusikDreamerOuter Space

    ... and ss long as you're breaking into Colorado,

    Center Route, Cynical Pinnacle,Casual Route, the Diamond,Bastille Crack, Hair City, West Buttress, Green Spur, Yellow Spur, Wind Ridge, Grand Giraffe, Superslab, Ruper, all Eldo multi-pitch "repeatables",Laps on the Flatirons.........

    [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: crazy t ]

    Randonee-VS-Mountaineer boots?

    in Newbies

    Posted

    I would lean toward a split board setup for now in your case. I have a few friends who guide with a split board and boots like the old scarpa denali's, and do really well uphill and downhill. You don't need to learn a new sport, and snowboards are a great tool in the variable backcountry snow, from slush to crust to deep powder. You should find deals on split boards; "the backcountry" in lake tahoe is advertising the voile in couloir for $665, $130 for skins www.thebackcountry.net . You can probably find better deals if you poke around (don't get a splitboard "kit", the edges will de-lam).

    On denali I would have mountaineering boots; don't screw around up there with your footwear; you want your feet comfortable and warm.

    Telemark Skis and Bindings

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I agree, the skis are too skinny, both for our conditions and for the fact that you're new to tele'ing. Those are nice bindings though, and I also definitely recommend lifters. Shop around, go into shops and pick their brains to see what ski type/size they recommend, then see what you can find. Check the web, and used gear boards at shops. For 200$ you should have no problem finding a reasonable setup. Definitely learn at the area first, and be prepared to fall. But telemark skiing is spectacular; you can have fun even on a green run with tele skis. And in the powder... tongue.gif" border="0

    the goods for sale

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    Beautiful AT/Randonee setup: Black Diamond Arc Ascents (183cm) mounted with Fritschi Diamir Titanal II bindings- bought this summer, skied on 1/2 day, they're in incredible shape. $530

    Black Diamond Shrike bent shaft ice axe(hammer); never used. $105

    Backcountry Access Alpine Trekkers, barely used. $60

    It's that time of year!

    avalanche probes

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I have an Ortovox probe; I'm happy with it. It sets up very quickly, and is light and strong. I trust their products in general; they have been the leader in avalanche rescue gear for many years. I believe G3 also makes a good probe, which is graded in centimeters, making it double as a ruler for use in snow stability test pits.

    How to get into trad climbing

    in Newbies

    Posted

    Vedauwoo, like Index, is known to have fairly stiff ratings for the grade. Plan on spending a couple of years at least in your "apprenticeship" phase of trad leading; there are a lot of subtle things that experience gained over time and with better trad leaders will teach you. You want to feel comfortable in your ability to downclimb or bail on a route if you get into trouble, so that panic doesn't become an issue. Learn rescue techniques, learn how to get good beta, learn how to lead a route safely for you, the leader, as well as for your second and anyone else who may be below you (i.e. redirecting the rope, etc.). Get experience on different types of rock, on short and long routes. It helps at this stage to have good partners, and one who is at a lower level than you, so you can practice leading and making the bigger decisions, as well as a partner better than you, from whom you will learn and gain experience, safely. Many beginning leaders will gain skill very quickly, but experience and seasoning, good decision making and planning will only come with more extended exposure and use.

    But with more responsibility eventually comes more satisfaction. Enjoy!

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