crazy_t

"clueless twit" maybe, or heartless twit? sorry to sound harsh. but your timing and "joke" aren't so great in the context of the recent event.

anyone else have any 1st hand reports/info?

I used to live in Eldorado Canyon. Though it was ugly for the community to wrestle with the issue until they came up with the "bolting application- committee" thing that is now in place, I think it is very effective. New routes are put up, but not rampantly and in a style that essentially preserves the character of the area. Old pins/anchor bolts being replaced are also subject to review, and then are sorted out. People generally came to agree that Eldo is a special place, and some type of system had to be created where these issues could be sorted out before they affected the rock. There are still bolting war issues all around Boulder, but Eldo seems to be working. I don't pretend to know any of the elements of the issues at Index, but know it is a beautiful spot, with amazing quality rock and lines. I'm sure that people on both sides of the issue are acting in the interest of the Index that they believe in; but the result of the squabbling sounds like it's affecting the rock. Maybe a meeting in some "neutral ground" to start to figure out how to preserve this epic area while respecting all of the community that developed it and uses it? Again, maybe this has all happened before, I am still pretty new to the Washington climbing scene and have spent a lot less time on rock here than I did in CO, so my 2c is likely uninformed and likely useless without the history/context. But I've climbed there, it's an amazing area, and think it deserves to be treated that way.

looks "unique" for sure, "interesting"! Must have been an epic climb. Thanks for the pic. A couple of my friends did the ridge a # of years ago in summer and reported rapping off of piles of stones, etc. But descending the "regular route" terrain looks spicy to me too. I'm ok with loose rock and runouts, less ok with rockfall. I'm thinking about going in July roughly.

Hey, any feedback on this route/s? Seven years ago when I first moved here this was on my list, had a perfect week of weather and 3 partners bail in a row (one while I was literally walking out the door bags packed, calling saying he had the flu). For some reason I'm thinking about it again this summer. Anyone climbed it (especially in recent years) who has anything to say about it (general beta, "it's awesome" or "it sucks ass", also which line you took/ might recommend)? I appreciate it.

Looks horrible, especially those March turns. Good stuff!

Major loss. Peace to you, and yours.

A friend of mine suffers from similar issues; she is on the upswing after it got very bad (i.e. avoiding a lot of public places, very limited scope of travel from home). But it is slow progress, and hard for her. It still sounds like you are pretty functional; I'd try to hold your ground or better. If you want me to send her your contact info, pm me; she's cool and if she wanted to talk about it with you it might be helpful.

alpine rock can be a useful descriptor

- Want a beer? - You gonna call room service? -We got beer. -If you hauled beer up this rock, you're insane. -I may be insane, but I'm not stupid. I didn't carry it, you did it. It's in your pack. That whole movie is an epic quote, pretty racy language (non-pc) too. I had the pleasure of pulling the beer in the pack move on a fellow Eiger sanction fan, complete with the above quotes, a couple of years ago. I had to sneak the beers into his pack a couple of pitches before the top to pull it off though.

Post deleted by crazy_t

from Eiger sanction: Dr. Jonathan Hemlock: It's dangerous, child, to come to conclusions when you don't have any facts. Now let me lay some on you. Sure Dragon knows what he's doing, just like he knew what he was doing when he worked for the Nazis during World War II. Jemima Brown: What? Dr. Jonathan Hemlock: Oh, you didn't know that, did you? Yes your "wrap him up in red, white, and blue" Mr. Dragon's a goddamn Hessian, that's what he is. And he'd sell out the other side as fast as he'd sell out our side. And he'd sell out his mother, too, if the bloodless freak had one.

light up

from front page (lead story) of today's Colorado Daily: C U & Boulder It's 4/20 By PAULA PANT Colorado Daily Staff Writer Thursday, April 19, 2007 8:53 PM MDT Break out your bongs. The annual marijuana-smoking celebration known as /20” is expected to draw a crowd of 1,000 to 3,000 people to CU's Norlin Quadrangle today. "4/20” - a public marijuana-smoking event which takes place at 4:20 p.m. on the 20th day of the fourth month - normally happens on CU's Farrand Field, but will be moved to Norlin Quad this year as Farrand undergoes renovation. Last year about 3,000 people stood on the field at 4:20 p.m. as a thick, visible plume of smoke rose above the crowd. The smell of burning marijuana wafted all the way to Colorado Ave.

the joke's on us (not to mention the Iraquis)

from a friend of mine: "After a while, on every expedition you end up talking about the same things. What goes in, what goes out, and what goes in and out"

can't find the quote, but I think it was from Bonington (or Whillans) at Everest base camp? Some Germans camped nearby were listening to/heard about a German victory over England in the World Cup. They cockily saunter over to the English camp, and announce "It seems that we've beaten you at your national sport!" And Bonington/Whillans answers, without skipping a beat "And we've beaten you twice at yours..."

"Don't fall now or we'll both go!" "Perhaps I should take this lead?" — Layton Kor on numerous occasions. "- You guys going up ? - Yes, yes, we go up.. - You may be going a lot higher than you think!" - Don Whillans, to a Japanese party, while descending the Eiger

Horrible event, I'm sorry for those affected. I'm not going to jump into the argument re:gun rights etc. But, like CBS, what really got me was the very first "sound bite" from Bush: "The president believes that there is a right for people to bear arms, but that all laws must be followed," spokeswoman Dana Perino said. save your politicking for another time, shrub.

conrad is a good guy.

Trip: Shiro's - omakase Date: 4/15/2007 Trip Report: It was epic. Hemlock bough herring egg action. Purple sea cucumber in seaweed. Geoduck, sea bream, uni. Ovary of Bering Sea Pike or something epic? Rare deal that buyers auction for pieces. Toro, all the regulars. Raw prawns, eating live heads. Go Shiro!

Sounds like "rolfing for the skull" in some ways. I hope you find relief and ultimately healing )

Love, Devotion, Surrender (A personal favorite) Shakti Friday Night in San Francisco Required listening!

You can adjust a clove easily, while staying "in". For example, if your 2cnd was having trouble, you could extend your tie-in via the clove to take a look over the edge, etc.without unlocking the biner/undoing the knot. As far as redirecting, like some have said if there is pull from a fall it will be up vs. down, and makes things a lot easier if there is any need for tieing someone off, assisting the second, rescue etc. Gives you a lot more options that are easy to employ if something comes up. And having a reverso or gigi lets you tend to other stuff on longer routes while your partner is between moves, saving a lot of time. And like others have said, if I am leading consecutive pitches I or the second will just re-flake the rope once they are in at the belay; 30 seconds of work (a little more if a hanging belay) to insure the rope running smoothly.

Is that "Children of the Grave" I hear coming from your neck of the woods? )