crazy_t

Thanks! Hoping for a little less car time though; I'll likely not overnight at a TH but just get up and drive early.

Has anyone who has been in the hills this week got a good idea or two for a good descent with the current conditions? Looking for 2-3 or so hour drive from Seattle, and a longer vertical/single run w/ up to 5000' or so ascent, car to car. It's been a long while since I've been out, so I appreciate the beta. Post here or PM me, Thanks!

Hey "old schoolers", try bringing a cordelette with you on your next few multi-pitch climbs, it's simple, safe, versatile, and easy to rig a few different ways per the situation "without thinking too much". Don't let the frenchy name throw you off, it will make your life easier, and often safer. Fits into the "speed=safety" angle as well.

I've never climbed it, but from the type of feedback it get's here, maybe it should be renamed "Infinite Diss"

Will share gas $, want to get to mt. by noon thurs (thursday am drive would be preferable). Room for skis would be a bonus! Please pm me, thanks.

Eldorado Springs

wow, nice tour! killer adventure. Thanks for the report + pics

All Star fitness in West Seattle has/ had one, talk to them , I think Dylan is the current supervisor. I used it a few times, it worked, I was never comfortable with the idea though.

Hi M, I don't but I hear it is up and running, is great and is very popular with people (w/$) from Quito. Mark G at MM was there this spring, he'll have beta. So are you still climbing? I saw a yard sale posting a while back..

yozhik

He'd be great to talk to re: your plans, getting things organized, and route beta.

http://www.chilcabamba.com/index.html Reno's new place

I would recommend a night or two in or around Quito, then maybe 2 nights here: http://www.tambopaxi.com/ with acclimatization hikes before moving up to the hut. Tambopaxi is a great place in the Altiplano at the base of the mountain, with featherbeds, great food, and views. They can give you recent beta too. I just heard that the guy who built Tambopaxi, Reno (was/is head of the Ecuadorian guiding association) made a new place in the same area that may be nicer too. Don't have details for you, and I'm not sure if he still owns Tambopaxi so they might not be the best source. That route is nice, not too technical but interesting, with lots of interesting but pretty stable crevasse travel. Summit days start early, beacuse when the sun comes out in Ecuador things warm up pretty quickly. Rope, axe (just 1), crampons, picket + a couple of screws, which you may not need but there are a few exposed spots. Look at guiding companies' itineraries to get a good idea of a suitable acclimatization schedule.

That looks awesome. Did Dreamer a long time ago, but haven't been back since. Thanks for the tr!

The Man, here in Seattle.. He has a big heart, and the best fish I've ever had! I had a good friend from out of town come here a few weeks ago for the Washington Wine tasting event. He's been in the restaraunt business all his life, and was the "hired palate" for a couple of east coast restaraunt owners/investors in search of unique, higher-end wines to add to their lists. These guys eat well all around the world, as part of their job. When they asked where they should eat in Seattle, I gave them one answer, Shiro's. We got seats in front of the man and he went all-out (usually he's a bit more reserved, especially when they are busy). Those guys have been raving to me about that experience ever since, "one of the best meals I have ever had", "mind-blowing food". When we got the sea cucumber florets (true purple color) in a "bath" of a fine seaweed with three different minced "condiments" floating in there, my buddy said "I feel like this is a meal we would be eating in outer space". Truly world class quality, and highlighting the Northwest's amazing seafood. Long live Shiro!! Yes, sushi is good.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=3&Number=669362&Searchpage=1&Main=50241&Words=shiro%27s&topic=0&Search=true#Post669362 I don't know what I'd do w/o Shiro. But that recent Nat Geo article about the world's oceans is rough.

Yeah, I've learned that these days I can operate at a fairly high level with very little sleep for up to 2-3 days, but there has to be an end in sight after that.

In my own experience, I tend to be more conservative with regards to risk at that stage (sleep deprivation) in the hills. I usually am pretty good at noting that I'm on the edge, and take appropriate action to curb my or my partner's more risky impulses (if there are any). This, though, is in a good part due to experience. I.e. all of the late-night epics where I pushed it and paid: descents w/o headlamp, right clothing, unplanned bivies, freaking out people on the home front when I don't show up. Fun when you are younger, more free and are still newer to climbing, but as I became older and more experienced it's a sign that I didn't plan well or make good decisions along the way. At that point I take note of my errors and do the right thing. Which, usually at that stage in a climb (higher up, with you and your partners near-spent) will still be a good bit of work. If I'm off route (or don't know if I'm on route) I definitely don't push ahead (i.e "unkown gully") until I get oriented again. Rookie mistake that can cost big. The other part is tuning into your instinct/gut. If it doesn't feel right, I know it and don't mess with disrespecting that information, wherever it comes from. You may pull a "victory" out of your butt, but it usually doesn't feel right.

Looking for general beta. Thinking about doing that or a neighboring route towards the end of the month. I'd appreciate any advice!

Mt. Daniel

No beer, no eye candy. In short, an epic.

a buddy of mine got a screaming deal on one (Eurovan) this spring, $16,500 for one not as old, with 30k miles and in great shape. I would keep looking, but agreed, they are sweet rigs.

http://www.cowgirlsespresso.com/CGE%20Main.htm

That looks cool. 3rd Flatiron-y, with more vegetation. Nice!

I've had it a bunch of times, either in Russia or with some brought back from travels. Customs is big on this in the last few years, so I haven't brought any back since. I have had Russian ("Absent" brand, dark green with cool art-deco labeling, was $40+ for a 1/5th) and the Czech stuff (bright green, or red). It does taste similar to Ouzo. I have done it with the sugar, etc. or straight shots. To be honest, it never really lived up to expectations. Sure, you get a buzz, but really nothing much "extra", at least in my experience. I do have a friend who owns a restaraunt who tried some of the real old stuff. This guy bought a collection of wine and spirits from the turn of the century that was found bricked into a wall in Philadelphia. Included was some Absinthe. After drinking 2 small glasses, he reported a major mind/body buzz, with some gentle hallucinations. He felt like the older stuff (at least the kind he sampled) likely contained added opiates.