crazy_t

Nice job on Grandmother's Challenge. That crux is some awkward, pumpy stuff. Quality trad lead! I used to live in Eldo, wish I still did.

Thanks for the encouragement CB. Still hoping to hear from anyone who was up there last weekend or yesterday. Thanks!

You must be in a bad mood.

Has anyone been up to Washington Pass this week? I'm wondering about the approaches, route conditions, recommendations. My guess is that it's pretty dry? Thanks in advance.

exactly

No, really, it just takes money to get up those mountains- K2, Kanchen. Haven't you heard? What's an objective hazard? Motivation? Suffering? Strategy, technique? None of this big mountain bunk can compare to redpointing a bolted pitch of 5.14. We all really know that. Come on folks. Climb your own in your own style for your own reasons. And unless someone public is actually making a bs claim about their accomplishments or fucking with the rock or with others, what's it to you? Did Ed start this thread with some major boasting? No, it was just reported that he summitted Annapurna this time and had completed a publicly stated goal. This wouldn't be my ultimate goal in climbing, it may not even be Ed's but so what? I'll do my own thing. Who needs to waste time slandering these climbs? Especially while we're all sitting here on our asses now in front of a computer screen? Climbing is fun, it is varied, it is personal, we all value our own experiences with it. We should respect other's accomplishments too. No one says the world should bow down to Ed, or that he alone stands at the cutting edge of climbing today. But hell, it's a solid accomplishment. I say nice work completing it w/o O2- a huge difference and erring on the side of safety.

truly a blase accomplishment compared to successfully logging over 25,000 posts here, eh? Cheers to you both though!

Hard Grit.

Thanks for the info. A few ?s- did you go to the summit? If so, how were crevasses? How's the consolidation lower? Thanks.

Thanks guys. Ended up checking the weather 1 last time and seeing that it was going south, rescheduling for Mon-Tues. Some good suggestions, I've only done a couple of them. The aqueduct-LLady linkup is definitely an inspired option I hadn't considered.

Beautiful place, some of the best climbing in the state is on Prusik. South face 5.9 is a classic. It's a long hike in either way you go. You could do it in a long day, but then you would miss the chance to spend a little time up there. Friendly Dall sheep, beautiful lakes full of trout, classic white granite, limited # of permits daily so a really nice experience overall.

I was hoping to have a big day up at Washington Pass, but a sick tot is precluding the combined alpine start and early drive RT from Seattle. Does anyone know about approach and rock conditions for Darrington or Mt. Garfield? Or something else- hoping for a 1-2 1/2 hour drive then 1 hour or so approach to a long route, vs a 3-4 hour drive and longer approach. Snow Creek wall? Ideal would be 5-10 pitches up to easy 5.10 trad. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the reports. Sounds a bit funkier than I had hoped for. Anyone have recommendations for a good day tomorrow, maybe skiing just for approach to alpine rock? Washington Pass approach? It looks to be a warm one.

Thanks for the word. What day did you go up?

Has anyone been up Baker or the approach roads in the last couple of days? Or up to camp Muir? I'm considering a car to car Baker summit and ski descent tomorrow (Saturday 4-23), or a Muir snowfield ski. Or if anyone has beta on something similar that's in good shape, I'd appreciate it. Might be interested in carpooling with people with similar ideas too. Thanks!

http://www.aspendailynews.com/

http://www.aspentimes.com/article/20050307/NEWS/103070007

shashlik i pivo

You'd definitely enjoy yourself there then. There's some rock climbing in the area, bouldering, and amazing alpine climbing in the Caucasus, although access for foreigners into some of the mountains directly next to or in Georgia has been more restricted lately. But shashlik and beer, with a view like that, is hard to beat !

a somewhat better view of Ushba, in winter. Approach for aforementioned route is via icefall on left.

Donguz-Arun (L peak) and Nakra-Tau ® sliding after a 5' storm. The ridgline is the Georgia border. Shot taken from a chairlift at the Cheget ski area, 10 mins from the base of Elbrus.

Ushba, a beauty. It lies in Georgia. Easiest route is on L ridge of L summit. The Ushba traverse is pretty burly. Unfortunately I only know this second hand!

Vid vsegda otlichno! Horoshije mestnije, shaslik vkusni. Ya vsegda rad, tuda vernutsja.

looking towards main Caucasus ridge

Pic from the saddle, and one from skiing on Elbrus April 2002.