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Everything posted by crazy_t

  1. Elbrus

    Ne za shto.
  2. Elbrus

    I've been there 14 times over the last 5 years, summer and winter (mostly guiding). It's a lot like a huge Mt. Baker, but in an interesting part of Russia, directly on the border with Georgia. The Caucasus are beautiful. I've always enjoyed my time there, and have a lot of good friends in the area. If you're a skier/ boarder, it makes for a good ski descent. Moscow and St. Petersburg are great if you haven't been there. Email me your # and I'd be glad to talk to you about it.
  3. Alta still rocks!

    Regarding the terrain, ever heard of Crested Butte?
  4. Tele/Rando/Board battlecage

    Telemarking- a lot of fun. A real rhythm, great in powder (you get way down into it) and good conditions. Many feel it is worth the learning curve, which can be challenging. Start at an area and get solid there before you move to the balance issues of telemarking in wild snow. Not as good in shitty conditions, but you can adapt. Nice light feeling underfoot. Easy for traveling around on long tours. Not as good with a big pack. AT- solid, easy if you are already an alpine skier. Comfy boots, good for climbing in too. Good for all types of snow, better than tele for shitty snow. Great for traveling, esp with a heavy pack. Snowboard- uphill comfort/ practicality depends on system. Snowboards perform the best downhill in most backcountry snow- deep pow, mank, ice crust... (and I'm not a boarder). It all depends on what you want to do. Many people do more than 1 style and pick the system for the day dependent on the objective and the conditions. If I'm going out for a day tour with buddies and the snow is nice, I'll usually tele. If I have a big pack or the snow is shittier, I'll usually AT. It's all fun, no matter what you decide to focus on first. No system is "best"; having fun in the snow with friends is best ) .
  5. Climb: Washington Pass-SW arete S Early Date of Climb: 11/11/2004 Trip Report: There is snow from the parking lot and the hairpin. The packed trail peters out on the west side under the steep section around the slabs, necessitating mixed type hiking. About 1' snow, some of it fairly firm down low, firmer higher, but semi-slow and funky travel with rocks and trees covered etc. Snowshoes would be a good call. The hairpin side is in much better shape. I saw two guys ski down that side yesterday on scratchy conditions, have to give them bonus points for their efforts. Snow is pretty firm on that side and really doesn't get much light during the day. Up by the top it is hard, some light crampons and a light axe might be helpful. On S Early, small patches of snow but otherwise very enjoyable. It's beautiful up there, with new snow on all the peaks. The roads are very clear, but frost/ice was a problem driving down in the PM.
  6. barry blanchard at patagonia tonight (10/1)

    Annabelle does have an accent. She's more charming in person than in the pics! A really nice person.
  7. Irresponsible Posts

    "the rock won't let go of you"
  8. Ski Mountaineering

    did just 1 run?
  9. Has anyone been on any of the glaciers or alpine routes this last weekend? Any info about roads and access? Am looking to get on a mellow route on a glaciated peak next week (without a superlong approach) and would appreciate any current beta and/or suggestions. Thanks. [ 04-29-2002, 02:23 PM: Message edited by: crazy t ]
  10. second ascent, the integral route (now the casual route after charlie's post climb analysis), the diamond, solo; second ascent perilous journey; the diving board solo in tennis shoes; multiple fa's, rock, alpine, peaks worldwide. humble guy, solid climber, good photos.
  11. Good Routes to Repeat

    South Ridge and SE arete S EarlyS Face PrusikDreamerOuter Space ... and ss long as you're breaking into Colorado, Center Route, Cynical Pinnacle,Casual Route, the Diamond,Bastille Crack, Hair City, West Buttress, Green Spur, Yellow Spur, Wind Ridge, Grand Giraffe, Superslab, Ruper, all Eldo multi-pitch "repeatables",Laps on the Flatirons......... [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: crazy t ]
  12. Alpine touring/randonee skis for sale: Black Diamond Arc Ascent Skis (183cm) mounted with Fritschi Diamir Titanal 2 bindings. Bought this year, in great shape, skied 3 times. $500 firm. 206-938-3233 Tom
  13. Alpine Touring/ Randonee Backcountry Ski Gear in incredible shape for sale! Scarpa Laser boots, Scarpa size 8.5= US size 9.5Used 1 1/2 days, $300 Black Diamond Arc Ascent skis 183cm mounted with Fritschi Diamir Titanal II bindings, also used only 1 1/2 days $530 Or make me an offer on all of it and I may throw in another tasty item... Call 206-938-3233, ask for Tom
  14. Randonee-VS-Mountaineer boots?

    I would lean toward a split board setup for now in your case. I have a few friends who guide with a split board and boots like the old scarpa denali's, and do really well uphill and downhill. You don't need to learn a new sport, and snowboards are a great tool in the variable backcountry snow, from slush to crust to deep powder. You should find deals on split boards; "the backcountry" in lake tahoe is advertising the voile in couloir for $665, $130 for skins www.thebackcountry.net . You can probably find better deals if you poke around (don't get a splitboard "kit", the edges will de-lam). On denali I would have mountaineering boots; don't screw around up there with your footwear; you want your feet comfortable and warm.
  15. Telemark Skis and Bindings

    I agree, the skis are too skinny, both for our conditions and for the fact that you're new to tele'ing. Those are nice bindings though, and I also definitely recommend lifters. Shop around, go into shops and pick their brains to see what ski type/size they recommend, then see what you can find. Check the web, and used gear boards at shops. For 200$ you should have no problem finding a reasonable setup. Definitely learn at the area first, and be prepared to fall. But telemark skiing is spectacular; you can have fun even on a green run with tele skis. And in the powder...
  16. the goods for sale

    Beautiful AT/Randonee setup: Black Diamond Arc Ascents (183cm) mounted with Fritschi Diamir Titanal II bindings- bought this summer, skied on 1/2 day, they're in incredible shape. $530 Black Diamond Shrike bent shaft ice axe(hammer); never used. $105 Backcountry Access Alpine Trekkers, barely used. $60 It's that time of year!
  17. avalanche probes

    I have an Ortovox probe; I'm happy with it. It sets up very quickly, and is light and strong. I trust their products in general; they have been the leader in avalanche rescue gear for many years. I believe G3 also makes a good probe, which is graded in centimeters, making it double as a ruler for use in snow stability test pits.
  18. Who climbed what this past weekend?

    Darkness 'Til Dawn is truly a "full value" 5.9+, super sustained. Green Spur and Green Slabs are nice too, esp green spur. Have you done Yellow Spur yet? or Outer Space? I used to live in Eldo, what a place!
  19. How to get into trad climbing

    Vedauwoo, like Index, is known to have fairly stiff ratings for the grade. Plan on spending a couple of years at least in your "apprenticeship" phase of trad leading; there are a lot of subtle things that experience gained over time and with better trad leaders will teach you. You want to feel comfortable in your ability to downclimb or bail on a route if you get into trouble, so that panic doesn't become an issue. Learn rescue techniques, learn how to get good beta, learn how to lead a route safely for you, the leader, as well as for your second and anyone else who may be below you (i.e. redirecting the rope, etc.). Get experience on different types of rock, on short and long routes. It helps at this stage to have good partners, and one who is at a lower level than you, so you can practice leading and making the bigger decisions, as well as a partner better than you, from whom you will learn and gain experience, safely. Many beginning leaders will gain skill very quickly, but experience and seasoning, good decision making and planning will only come with more extended exposure and use. But with more responsibility eventually comes more satisfaction. Enjoy!