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crazy_t

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Everything posted by crazy_t

  1. Like he says in the film, he'll still tele powder. He hasn't forsaken 1 for the other, like he says he's just expanded his options. There's no debate, no right or better choice. I make my own choices, usually tele, because I generally enjoy it more. Multi-day trips with a pack, crappier conditions- usually AT. But you never know. "Not looking back"? "Final answer"? Come on, spare me. Just do what you want. Either way, I'm looking down the fall line )
  2. Thanks for the great input so far, guys. A lot of my concerns are mirrored by your input, mainly shitty weather (I can deal with bad conditions but like to avoid them if it's easy to), and logistical challenges, esp. with a bike/climb combo in offseason. Although no crowds and a mountain in a more natural state are appealing. Still thinking about it. Haven't been to Japan yet, and have had a "yen" (sorry for the pun) to go for a while, and definitely have been eyeing Hokkaido backcountry scene. Any more advice, keep it coming!
  3. Hi climbers-sans. I and a couple of friends are considering a week long trip to Japan at the end of Nov. The plan is to fly into Tokyo with bikes, take a train to a cool location on the coast (Northern side looking good so far) then spending 3 or 4 days riding and staying in guesthouses to the base of Fuji. Then climbing it, returning to the bikes, then back to Tokyo and back here. I'm having trouble finding good info on recommended routes for biking, as well as conditions on the mountain at that time. If anyone has any experience, resources, or contacts that would be helpful I'd really appreciate it.
  4. I've climbed it probably 100 times, mostly solo. Soloing in the flatirons has always been one of my favorite things in life- the great rock, the colors, birds, the options. It is quality, and it is in a city park! Sick. I was just in CO last week and was climbing on the 1st, happy reunion. Solo-wise: the rock is generally phenomenal. Solid, and plenty of options. If it gets harder than 5.5 anywhere on the face, just poke around and you will find an easier way. Generally low angle enough where getting pumped would be impossible, so finding an exact "route" is not a concern. From the base, if you want to go a standard way, spot the 1st fat bolt (3" ring?) about 65' up from where the main climber's approach drops you. From there, up and left, eventually crossing over a 2' or so overlap/roof on your left side. Then up, lots of options. Eventually a ledge ("kiddy kar ledge") by a big notch on the left near the top. Climb the left side of the main formation off of the ledge (just r of the notch). The crux is in the last 20-30', small face holds. Remember how low angle it is as you climb this part, it's only a few moves. Nice raps off the back, with directions stamped into metal plates under the bolts (i.e. 1st rappel 50' to the SW, etc) with 1 rope. Climb early or later afternoon to avoid lightning. Options abound, so no need to wait in any lines, etc. 1/2 hour hike to base from park, then can be soloed in 20min or less to top, though you will likely enjoy spending more time up there. Plenty of big spots to kick back and relax. Rockfall genrally never an issue. Top r of face (where the C U is) is harder ( up to 5.8) and can be spicy due to paint. Have a blast, what a place. I really miss it.
  5. Cheers to you for writing and honoring your fiancee. You are strong to take on your healing and make that hike as well. I'm really sorry for your loss.
  6. that one looks pretty ideal, mtnfreak. I'm going to look into it.
  7. actually that SE buttress of cathedral is looking fairly sweet. How long do you guys estimate the drive to be from Bishop to the TH there?
  8. Thanks folks. Some of the suggestions seem like bigger days than what I'm looking for. Any mini-classics? I know the place is sick with classic rock, I've only been there once so all help is appreciated. Cheers!
  9. Will have a free day based out of Bishop soon with a couple of friends in good shape but w/little multipitch etc. experience. Was hoping to find a nice moderate (up to 5.5?)outing that could be done in 8-9 hours max from Bishop and back (including driving and hiking/climbing). Can anyone point me to some good ones? Ideal climb would include 1-2 hour approach on foot, 500-1000' vertical of 3rd-mid 5th class, at 8000'+. Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
  10. Also anyone who may have been through a similar experience, or knows of someone I could talk to about it, any advice would be appreciated.
  11. Hi, I've been working on the rough form of a guidebook to a climbing destination abroad. I have plenty of experience and contacts in the area. I am seeking an editor to work with me on this project. I am too busy to do it all myself, and would benefit from an experienced collaborator/organizer, preferably one who has experience working with Mountaineers publishing. Serious inquiries please contact me at tmmilne@yahoo.com. Cheers!
  12. A couple of thoughts: Susceptibility to altitude illness on this program will largely be affected by acclimatization directly prior to the climb. This factor hasn't been discussed. Planning on resting at Muir in the middle of night after hiking up, know that whether you can find room in the hut or you're outside, you will be cold. All I'm seeing for protection from the elements is a bivy sack and a "middle clothing layer". You might want to think this bit through a bit more. That hut will be cold and damp.
  13. I see that you got back by Mythos O'clock...
  14. my vote is also for Klipchuck.
  15. You guys get my vote for this year's "style points outing" to date!
  16. Passed some climbers tues coming down from looking at N ridge, they had bailed because of snow on the early part of the route. I didn't look at it myself though. In good conditions an alpine rack and simulclimbing are sufficient, 1 big cam (3.5 camalot? purple one I think- can't remember but it's been referred to in TRs here) for the 2cnd pitch of great gendarme if you do it. Not a great route to bail on, better up and over, great bivies around summit and get down quickly via Cascadian. We were on W ridge T-W, would imagine snow and ice to be an issue (or a bonus, depending on what you were looking for) on N ridge currently. I would wait for a spell of warm weather before heading up.
  17. Climb: Stuart area tues-wed-west ridge Date of Climb: 6/17/2005 Trip Report: Hiked up onto Stuart tues, expecting partly cloudy with improving wed. It started snowing by 1:30 as we were crossing by the lake and continued either snow or wind 'til maybe 3 am. That snow was melting and running water over the route during the day, then froze later day and in the am, icing up ledges and cracks. Made a bivy most of the way up 2cnd gully, semi-heinous night out (no sleeping bags). Next day got back on track, but slow moving and adverse conditions from the day before hinted at epic possibilities and made a call to turn around just at LJT. Notes: snow free to Ingalls Pass. There is running water in a few creeks on way up Pass, and some directly on other side. Snow on other side sporadically- snowshoes would be a waste of effort but gaiters necessary, and expect some postholing getting to and around lake. Water available at lake also. Ingalls was snow-free on routes, looked pretty straightforward to get up above the lake via the slabs and snow patches. The talus under E ridge notch was mostly clear of snow. On Stuart, there are still snow patches coming up 1st(2cnd) and LJT gullies. Snow underneath surface is getting harder/icier, bring crampons and maybe even a screw or a small picket. There was some running water lower on the route in the daylight, but don't count on it. Plenty of snow patches though for melting water. Most of the snow from tues melted during the day wed. Saw a nice mountain goat with baby goat on way down. At base of gulley, heard rockfall, ducked behind a rock and watched a dorm-fridge sized boulder hurtling 20' overhead. Probably kicked off by the goats. Gear Notes: should have brought down booties for bivy! Axe, crampons, some snow pro would be a good idea. Approach Notes: see above See attachment for crappy image of Stuart from tues noon
  18. What a great place to get spanked though! RMNP rules.
  19. Looked very skiable. Waves of the same wind deposited snow that skied well in the 7500'-8800' range were visible on the whole Roman Wall.
  20. Climb: Squak ski-squak/easton Date of Climb: 6/9/2005 Trip Report: Skied up to 8800' on the Squak yesterday before clouds in the valley coming up called for pulling the skins off and pointing 'em. Hiked on foot up to the end of the railroad grade, only the section at the top of the treed hill (4600') to the beginning of the grade was funky snow on foot (would be postholey later day). On descent, corn was deluxe and the glacier in beautiful shape. Started from 8800' at 10 am, amazing conditions 1st 1500-1800' until I came into the clouds/whiteout, had to follow uphill tracks down but the snow was a bit thicker here anyway. The corn was forming on top of a crust that sits on 4"+ of unconsolidated beneath, but it was supportive on skis. You can descend on skis to 4600' by connecting snow patches, which soon will be too spotty. Didn't skin up it in the am because it was too cupped and frozen, railroad grade was straightforward.
  21. Now that's a nice rally. Cheers to you guys!
  22. Hiked in Wednesday night and climbed Silver Star via Burgundy col Thursday. No snow until camp plateau, some dry flat patches melted out for tents. Didn't see water to pump nearby but didn't look too hard. The way up to the notch was about 1/2 dirt or rock and 1/2 snow. There was a small stream running, a good place to pump water about 1/3 the way up, on the side of the main snow patch in the middle. The snow was not ideal for travel even on a cold morning, but it went ok. Still good bits of snow on some of the spires, verglas n-facing. The snowfield-glacier was straightforward. As of Saturday probably 6-10" of fresh on the glacier from Thurs-Sat, with the next layer about a foot of semi mushy yet generally strong stuff. Good bonding in general. Getting up on the glacier the snowpack became firmer. From the col to the summit was great semi steep snow climbing. *Skiers + boarders- This would make a great descent. Thursday would have been good, but with snows th-sat maybe wait for 1 day of sun to consolidate things again first. Skiable terrain all the way from the summit blocks (so all but the last 10-15' vertical), at up to 45 degrees +/-. The upper glacier/bowl was looking ideal for turns, the last 1000' or more (going up)in nice shape. The snow continued a lot further down as well, though my guess is that it'd be getting more rotten w/ loss in elevation. A bit slabby in the gut of the main bowl but nice overall. We "tested" the upper slope all the way down to the plateau below the col with a large rock; no loose or slab propagation. It's a burl to get there but setting up a mega mid for a day of turns there would be pretty nice. Upper bit of descent recommended for strong skiers/boarders only; a fall from the upper mountain would be, on a scale from good to bad, bad. Liberty Bell + SEWS friday and saturday- approached from trailhead fri and hairpin sat. Blue lake side snow and dirt to meadow under slabs, the more snow, a lot of it rotten and postholey. Approached LB via boulders and snow, took a little while. Last bit to notch was all firmer snow, no need for crampons. From hairpin Sat was pretty good. Generally better snow, and a 90% glissadable downhill (watch for rocks)which saved a lot of time vs. the other side. Southern facing routes were generally dry, most N facing walls had a retained over the 2 days verglas in and around cracks, etc. S arete SEWS in good shape, a tiny bit of ice in the chimney, snow on the big upper ledges but all in all very easy going. Was pleased to meet a nice group of Mountaineers Saturday who, after the chimney, cruised the route in very good, efficient style (i.e. solo and with a fixed rope on the hand traverse) which got seven of them from the flat 100' above the top of the chimney to the summit in under an hour. They were also kind enough to let us pass. They were a credit to their group, and a nice change from what can sometimes be a cluster of confusion, over-sieged techniques and bossy leaders. Cheers to you guys! It snowed for about an hour each afternoon, and looked like more of the same moving in when we left. We got spanked by 6" of snow in 40 minutes while climbing the 5.6 chimney on the Beckey route Friday, but the route seemed to be back in shape again Saturday (via the view from SEWS). Felt nice to be in the hills and see some snow!
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