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crazy_t

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Everything posted by crazy_t

  1. crazy_t

    climbing russians

    Nightflight- Ne eto bar izvestenni v Moskve? )
  2. Go Stillers! Yins will prevail.
  3. Sounds like stability has gone south up north... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post536143
  4. Get Martin Volken's book Backcountry Skiing Snoqualmie Pass, it's all in there. A phenomenal guidebook, with great info at the beginning about safety, planning tours etc. Slot Couloir looks great, I don't know about conditions though (heard it was still heavy stuff as of Wed PM). I may be touring in the area tomorrow, if so I'll post about conditions.
  5. Hi folks. Does anyone have any experience skinning up Alpental early AM (starting at 6:30-7) to access backcountry (Tooth area). I would guess that on some days avalanche control would be an issue. I know a lot of areas that are OK with this, but wondered if anyone knew about Alpental specifically. And if uphill travel hinged on Patrol's work in the am, is there a place to check in with them at the base before proceeding? I wouldn't go up into any backcountry on a day with major hazard, but sometimes maintenance bombing etc. might be an issue. Thanks!
  6. That's a good point about the layering. I see that all the time. Also, he was likely way stressed, trying to perform well (i.e. likely pushing a bit too hard, out of his comfort zone), then just letting go when he was on a break. Rather than trying to fit his rhythm into the context of a bigger day and a bigger climb, his rhythm and corresponding mind-body function were more erratic. There wasn't much discussion about that. Still interesting, though.
  7. Watching the climbers and seeing how fast/slow their temps changed, and the variation, that was surprising to me. Good show. The K2 one was a little half-baked. They tried to make an interesting viewing for non-climbers. The other issue was from their small sample, most of the women died off of K2, and they really made a stretch trying to link those accidents to the K2 story. I thought the "party dynamic" bit was wierd too. It's kind of understandable, some of the issues that come from a mixed group, but they went a little far and were on the whole a bit dramatic.
  8. My wife got the same vibe from the K2 show, some of the guys were a little cocky. It was clear they were just going in with an edgy angle to stir the pot a little, and they got a lot of the type of quotes they wanted. It was like their premise was a bit like throwing down the gantlet and seeing if their chosen climber Aracelli might do well and win. Either way, then they were guaranteed a good story, their ass was covered. Pretty nice footage though. I liked that Denali show. Great footage. I thought that the core temperature research was really interesting, compelling. Watching how differently people's bodies reacted and what a difference it made.
  9. Hector is a good friend of mine. We were on a trip once, and I was telling him how I had been having trouble because my wife as a non-climber was opposed to the amount of climbing/guiding travel I was doing. He said with a smile "yeah, I've got the same kind of problem. Except Aracelli wants to go to K2 again this year (would have been his 3rd trip there in 4 years or something) and I'm not feeling it as much this year. But she's really pushing for it, it's a real problem..."
  10. We avoided the more alpine backcountry terrain for the same reason. We could feel the slabbiness/ set up snow up high in bounds, especially around ridges. Also saw a class 2-3 slide that looked to have been set off by patrol in Flute saturday AM, it was big, the crown covered a large area and was 2-3' and quite a clean break.
  11. Here's a link to some saturday Whistler pics from their site: http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/gallery/jan06/index.htm Philfort-hey, that report and pic just made this thread tastier! I'd love to see more reports from this weekend. I've been waiting for these conditions for a year and a half!
  12. Will there be a sick video on your site a la the Kendall one? Just checked it out, that is some crazy music and editing! Very sweet. Good to hear about Stevens too. I've been trying to find good news from around here for the last week, that is definitely good news. Good days like this weekend are epic redemption!
  13. Skied BC in the lesser Flute area out of Whistler saturday. It is sick up there. There were 30cm overnight, 90cm in all in the recent storm, so essentially 3'-bottomless. We chose generally windward slopes and sub-35 degree pitch, also trees. Stability was generally good in those areas on a day that was classified as high trending towards considerable hazard. Informed friends said that the recent storms have laid down snow that was initially wetter/warmer and has progessively gotten lighter. No "upside-down" layers, and little wind. The skiing was phenomenal. Went with safe, educated, pleasant partners and had a blast. Trail breaking was burly, luckily my buddy Ziff was an animal and did most of the hammering. Something about "crossfit"... By posting just wanted to let people know that up a bit north and at higher elevations there is a lot of epic goodness now. As far as the conditions "report", it's not meant as a green light to hit the backcountry at will, but rather that the snow is good, is following a good trend, so if you have the requisite experience and are intelligent and safe with your choices out there it's worth the drive for those of us in the lower wetter places.
  14. Buy a real probe. Your friends will be glad you did. No way a modified tent pole would cut it. It's part of your basic responsibility as a member of a backcountry group to have a probe, shovel, and beacon all in good working order and to know how to use them, and efficiently. That's all there is to it.
  15. Hi, a friend is in town from Spokane until Friday and has a pair of Nordica AT boots, W's size 7 for sale. They are 5 years old or so but were only used 5x, in great shape, they were too big for her. Asking $175 obo. Please reply to this thread or my email if you're interested and I'll help hook you up.
  16. Hi, a friend is in town from Spokane until Friday AM and has a couple of pairs of boots for sale. The Scarpas are size 6 1/2, worthy for Alaska and 8000m climbing, description here http://www.mtntools.com/cat/alpineice/boots/scarapphantom8000boots.htm They were used on 1 Denali climb, in great shape, they are too small for her and hurt her feet so she's selling them. New they are $900-1,150, she's asking $400 obo. Reply to this page or my email if you're interested and I'll help hook you up.
  17. Aahhh, Salumi. Truly the best. Cured meat heaven. Glasses of Italian table wine. Small, packed (sometimes hard to get a seat), truly a classic joint in a city where there aren't so many. Will cost close to/+ $10 though. Jones Barbeque also. The closest to downtown is in a small strip mall on Utah?, 1/2 block E of the intersection light btw. Starbucks and Home Depot off of 1st. Behind Earthwise. Awesome. Unfortunately both are "pilgrimage" distance from Pacific Place.
  18. I just got an email from a friend who was actually there during the rockfall (he was hit in the head, luckily only a laceration). Contrary to earlier news reports, the rockfall occurred on the route and affected a number of people climbing. The rockfall ranged in size up to car-sized blocks, and rained down for 2 minutes, on a very exposed section (1 reasonable spot for shelter in 200 m area). Not included in original reports was the fact that 5 porters died, and another lost a leg. Sounded pretty horrific.
  19. Thanks, double e. West Seattle here also. Heading to Whistler BC or Duffey Lake Saturday, Paul, heard it has been epic. Looking forward to it...
  20. That was the good news about that winter. I only skied 20 days, but they averaged just under 18" fresh each.
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