Otto

I followed the link and read about the harness; it seems like it might fill the bill for me. Question though: are the "ice clipper loops" designed to carry ice tools, or something else used in ice climbing? I'm not an ice climber, so I don't know the term. It would be really great if it could hold a rock hammer, like a Yosemite hammer. Do you know if it the "ice clipper loops" could hold a rock hammer without it slipping through? Thanks

Thanks for for lovely photo trip report. Alpine goodness in November.

There should be a First Ascent tag on this TR for Oso Rodeo, in the North Cascades section: Oso Rodeo Thanks, Bill

This new hole in the road has been marked; thanks to the road crew for making it so noticeable. If the stake disappears, drivers be warned.

It was the maiden voyage for my new belay device, an Edelrid Eddy, with the rope stuffed in a small backpack. Very pleased that it ran smoothly through the device, without locking up.

Trip: Three O'Clock Rock - various Trip Date: 11/19/2018 Trip Report: Wanting to see some rock before the snows came, I went up to Three O'Clock Rock yesterday, Monday, Nov. 19. First light comes late in this season so I enjoyed the luxury of sleeping in until five, left Seattle at six. Still a very cold morning in Darrington, I pulled in to the Shell station for a pit stop to let the day warm up a bit. I didn't tarry long, however, as the old pre-climb excitement took hold, didn't even go in the store, and motored on up the Clear Creek Road. The road is in good shape, with a new coat of gravel on the lower section. Thanks to the "Darrington Collaborative" for that! Besides the fairly alarming tilt of the roadbed in a couple of places, one new hazard is apparent: The trail is in the best condition I've ever seen it. Thank you to the work party earlier this year. Especially appreciated is the ramp up off the old miner's road: Years ago we had to cross over this log on the steps provided: Full sun was pulling me out of the frost toward the North Buttress: But I had designs on some easy pitches on the South Buttress: I wanted to warm up with Under the Bored Walk: Dry and clean, the knobs accepted my passage: Pointy elbows in the sun: Rapping off: That was actually scary enough that I decided against staying there to do Charly Chan's Number One Suspect. I moved gear over to Cornucopia Flake. Stout trees are plentiful under the route: It was fun placing gear again, so late in the season: I had only planned to do single pitches, no multi-pitch, but this looked so good and had to pass it up: Obligatory Exfoliation Dome shot: Feeling better about friction moves with lots of rope out, I decided to do the first pitch of The Kone. I saved time by using the same anchor tree. It was 1:30 and the sun was already going around the corner! From near the top of the first pitch of The Kone: On each of these pitches, I fixed the lead rope, rapped, and jugged up with a second rope for rappel. Last rappel of the day, from The Kone: I felt lucky to be out there for a beautiful day in November. Gear Notes: Minimal rack of cams. Two 60m ropes. Approach Notes: Thanks to the Washington Climbers Coalition and the Darrington Collaborative for the road work, and for the recent trail work.

Great photos. Thank you for posting. I'm glad the rebolting on Till Broad Daylight is appreciated, having been part of that effort a few years ago. The anchor above the Great Arch was thought provoking! I was up there two days later than you, on Monday. Amazing to get some warm rock in November. Cheers! And many thanks to the Darrington Collaborative for keeping the access nice!

Squire Creek Road is clear to the new (as of last year) parking lot. This winter saw further erosion, another cave-in, 20 feet upstream from the one which cut off the old parking lot. It can no longer be driven around. There is a new sign, but nothing blocking the road. Bill Enger

Here is the original report, with the gear list: Oso Rodeo original report Agreeing with Chuck, standard rack to 3", and there is a place for a big cam on the first pitch. In the report, DavidW says it is #5 Camalot. I do remember hanging it up on the anchor atop pitch 1, picked up on the return. But it was not always used by us; I got used to leading the pitch without it. Have fun on it, Bill

Way to go, Matt! Thanks for the community service. Bill

I went up to the 8 Mile trail on Clear Creek road on Saturday just to check out the road and trail. There are two new holes developing in the middle of the road. They are deeper than the photos can show, and seem to open up a bit below. The first one points downhill so it is obvious on the way in. Odometer showed it 2.0 miles from Mountain Loop Highway turnoff. The second one is located beyond the concrete spillway recently patched by Hanman. Someone put a stick in it. Odometer showed it 3.5 miles from Mountain Loop Highway turnoff.

OK, thanks, thought so. It will be replaced, anyway. Thanks for the nice pics.

Nice going getting across p4 in the rain! That would be dicey when wet. Is that last shot out of sequence? Or was that taken on the Tidbits rappel?

Was there a road repair project in progress, before the fire?

I drove across it last week. Drives great! Thanks for organizing that, Mark, and getting it done! Did you get some help?

I wish I could take it. Thanks for the link!

Great thread. And good thinking shapp - there needs to be a similar thread two number grades lower! Substitute .10 for .12 in the original post, ha! Now I'm included! I like your list, shapp. I would add, Revolver, pitch 5, .10a, three o'clock rock Oso Rodeo, pitch 7, .10a (the Black Overhang), squire creek wall

That was a good time on Wednesday night! Thanks, Kevin, for making this happen and being a good host. There were cool slideshows of a fine-looking new route on Triumph, a wild ski route on Goode, a run around Mt. Rainier, and an expedition on Denali. Also, some mundane low-angle, low-elevation chaff from Darrington... Thanks again NW Peaks for an interesting evening!

Really, people, all you have to do to see the photos is click on the link. It works in IE 11. That second-to-last shot is fantastic! The one after the "false summit of Rexford". What is it, please?

Haha! Love the use of caps for the X-RATED DEATH CHOSS! Appropriate, and funny. Thanks for the entertaining report!

Well, that is pretty cool! A great use of these interwebs. I am certain you find the owner with these excellent photos. Nice of you!

On that day I climbed the standard route of Mixup Peak with Marty Sorenson and Nancy Neuerberg. We heard a distant boom on the way up, and on the summit viewed the ash column far to the south.

Thanks for the good report, so glad you enjoyed the route! The nuts do seem to loosen up over the winter; I always bring a wrench but it looks like a few nuts, washers and hangers are next. Did you free the Exit Groove (pitch 20)? Regards, Bill

The photos are great, especially the b/w one showing the fluting, love it. Thanks for posting!

These state-of-the-art crampons were available from REI in the 1940s. My Dad used them on the Washington volcanoes in his school years. Those are the original rawhide straps, steel rings, and otherwise forged iron frame and points. They are stamped with the lettering, "GESCHUTZI BHEND 43 Made in Switzerland".