Thorodin

I heard about this controversy while attending a wedding reception in Seattle, and read through the thread here on cascadeclimbers. As one of the first-free-ascentionists of DDD, I thought I’d weigh in. First, to correct a major misconception in these postings: the climb is not a “protectable crack”, it features very marginal protection from small RPs in flaring pin scars for the first 20 feet or so, with widely spaced nut placements in small seams after that. As Victor correctly points out, when the first ascent was done there was a fixed pin in place - it was actually there for Damnation Crack, but we did reach over and clip it, and it protected what was otherwise a very dangerous runout. I believe the guiding principle for replacing fixed gear on an existing climb should be to maintain the state of the climb as the first ascentionists found it; for instance, replacing bolts that were reliable but have since become rusty. Or, replacing fixed pins that have fallen out. In the latter case, a bolt may be a better choice since a replaced pin will just fall out again eventually, and the rock gets beat out a little more each time. So, I would say that adding one bolt to DDD, at the same level as the original fixed pin (even with the bulge at the end of the initial crack on Damnation) would be perfectly appropriate. Ideally it should be further out left on the wall, since the original fixed piece was an awkward reach right to clip and would be too close to Damnation Crack, which really doesn’t need a bolt. As for the second bolt... well, I did think that the route was otherwise adequately protected - if just barely - with nuts. The start requires stepping above small, insecure wires until you reach the (missing) fixed pin, but that’s part of the charm of the route. I remember stepping up and down a bunch of times working out moves, too scared to fall on the tiny wires below me; as a sport route it would be a completely different experience. To the folks who chopped the bolts, I do appreciate your efforts to maintain traditional cragging values at what has always been a trad crag. And, you filled the scars with epoxy and rock chips, right? But I do think the addition of one bolt to replace the missing fixed pin would be perfectly reasonable. And, just to close up with my own controversial criticism - I do think it’s a little dishonest to chop a route you can’t climb yourself, based on a judgment that “it’s adequately protectable without the bolt”, if you have never stood well above that last #1 RP, looking down 20’ at the ground on 5.11 climbing... Last, to set the record straight, although Dan Lepeska and myself got credit for the first free ascent, it was really Jim Yoder’s project - he was the one who saw the potential to free climb it, and he had cleaned it and worked out the protection over several days. Lepeska happened to be there watching his attempts one day, and Yoder graciously let him give it a try - to everyone’s surprise Dan fired it! I was hanging out watching too, and made a convenient belayer. I followed the route, then came back a few days later and led it. After that I still climbed it occasionally... but always on a toprope, as it was too dangerous for my tastes!