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Rafael_H

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Posts posted by Rafael_H

  1. Climbed Rainman on Exfoliation Dome on Saturday.

    The road is very marginal for Honda Civic, we spent an hour road building at the "first washout". Without any road work, and larger trucks and SUVs gunning through, it might soon be impassable for most.

    Not a single soul there the entire day.

    Climbing there is a fantastic experience, open granite faces any way you look and beautiful rocky peaks all around. Very tranquil, only noise is from wind and birds. Routes are clean and intelligently bolted. If one climbs at the Apron week in week out, Darrington overall is way better, except for no Starbucks' close by. Cleaner, less sandy than L-worth, and all in one place.

  2. The Warrior! It is superb, has a great trad feeling to it, varied climbing, top of the first pitch and on have great views and open, airy feeling. There are other lines on the crag to spend the rest of the day at. No crowds.

     

    I was on Snow Creek Wall within a month and ticks are very busy, determined and business-like, doing their own ascents, and one even landed on me from above a couple of pitches up! Neither praying nor beaming up would help :)

  3. Great job Vern and Craig. Thanks for sharing your beta with us Saturday night.

     

    Climbed this Sunday with Jess Roskelley and Daniel Harro; we found it rather enjoyable and safe. No simulclimbing... no runouts... just a nice casual multipitch route in WA of all places.

     

    We did it car to car as a team of three in 8 hours including a very stuck rope on one rap so though this might have been a grade V in 1991 in present day with modern screws and all ice conditions this route is a grade III at most. I'm basing that on having climbing routes including Ames Ice Hose (grade III), Stairway to Heaven (grade III), Bird Brain Boulevard (grade IV), and Polar Circus (grade V) among others.

     

    Thanks John for keeping it real!

  4. Hi everybody.

     

    Will anybody please give me a description of how to get to Baker seracs often used for ice "bouldering"? Are there specific times or now is good? Any other considerations?

     

    I vaguely remember seeing seracs while hiking up via the Coleman route, but don't know of any local specifics.

     

    Thank you!!!

  5. Hi. Would like to climb this in a day - have to be in town on Sun. The roundtrip is likely to be around 20+ hours (I recently did West Ridge Stuart in 15 c2c, hope to improve on that), depending on routefinding.

     

    I can drive, can lead all the hard pitches (but don't insist on any), have all the gear. 4 years ago I had problems routefinding and am scared to solo.

     

    I am fine with a different but similar in effort and total time route.

     

    Let's go!

  6. I am planning to go up Stuart WR for a conditioning hike, join if interested. This is strictly conditioning for me so minimum 12-13 hours c2c, 14-16 likely.

     

    Can be talked into going up Backbone (D-Tail) or whatever's similar,no less than 18 hr c2c. Shorter drives're better.

     

    No goals, no "alpine starts", just fun and to decompress.

     

    Cheers!

  7. Well, glad that they are at least somewhat problematic. They require more handling than the minimum attention a thick pliable rope normally gets. I did get a better hang by the end. Possibly easier with two or more people?

     

    Interestingly, I was only using a single strand, just for rappelling (scrambled up to the top), and thought that it would have been easier in a double rope rap setup! My main complaint is how this cord sticks to itself when pulling through anchors.

     

    Any info about the cord you are talking about - brand/name?

     

    Thank you, Mike!

  8. I got this 70m 5 mil rap cord, either Mammut tech cord or something like that.

     

    Tech data seems to be in favor as it is harder to saw through. But, I used it on a hike up Tooth yesterday and a casual 20 min scramble ended in 1+ hour rap down - the darn cord gets tangled, knotted, twisted like nobody's business.

     

    In the past I always used a 7mm static rap cod and never had these problems - it is very supple - while this "tech cord" thing is very stiff, almost like copper wire. Soft cord piles nicely in one area while this stiff cord is all over the place. But then 5mm soft feels scary... Don't know why though :)

     

    So, does anybody use such cord as a rap line, and it is my rope management, or I bought the wrong thing?

     

    Thanks!!!

  9. This is just for my information. The only place I use and a Discover Pass required, is the Mailbox Peak.

     

    The gated side road that leads to the actual trail is clearly being maintained - there have been landslides over the years and it is in a pretty good shape now.

     

    So, who is maintaining that road and for what purposes? Anybody know? Is it the state parks, or some Fire Fighting entity, or what...

     

    Would be great to know. Thanks!

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