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Rafael_H

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Everything posted by Rafael_H

  1. Congratulations N. Face of Mt Temple FWA!

    Yeah, Would be great!
  2. How To Question; placing screws on steep ice...

    I'd give this a full 50 pounds, pure. You can find some free range variety at a bison farm around Cle Elum.
  3. Double Ropes

    Lukich You can use any size and material, all work for raps fine. The thinnest I used was 7mm static and 8mm dynamic. You can buy even thinner and lighter dynamic ropes for using in a double rope system if suddenly needed, but extra dynamic rope is expensive and odd usage might not warrant having it - sport and trad cragging around here does not require 2-rope raps. I found that a thin static cord is more often useful when climbing dry rock: rappeling things that you "soloed" up, hauling up and then 2-rope raps, cutting up for anchors. On the other hand a thin dynamic rope could be re-used for glacier travel. I would use a separate set for ice cragging. Any thinner than 7mm would require (much) more getting used to, which if you are into alpine might be a good thing. I saw a super-thin dynamic ropes at Feathered Friends, I think under 7mm.
  4. Banks Lake Ice

    S&P: 1. rock approach is neither "soooo" nor "reeealy" slow , a very simple and short 5.0 traverse with 1-2 5.5 moves (overrating it to be sure), no drytooling. Use a few pitons (KB) for pro. 2. 60m rope - 2 60m halves - easily reaches the ground from the base of the ice column at the cave, with some rope to spare. 3. I'd approach to the bottom, gear up in the cave and walk up to the rock start. The attraction on this route is a single pitch of good ice with lots of cool exposure.
  5. Room for rent in Leavenworth Area?

    Where are you now?
  6. Banks Lake Ice

    There are many climbs formed between Euphrata and Coulee, well worth the drive. Easy or hard, many top-ropable, short approaches. Today's conditions were cold and hard, brittle ice. Amazingly, Zenith by 11AM was flowing like a downpour at the middle section yet temps were so low that all our gear - draws, tools, hood - was encrusted in ice. The ice was semi-plastic, depending on wetness. At the same time Salt And Pepper was dry and very hard, brittle but not "a horror show".
  7. which ice screws?

    My main evaluation criterion is how quickly I can place the screw: take out, stick from 1 or 2 twists. Then comes racking. Years before I tried almost all of them, BD, 360, Americana, CM and DMM: - got rid of all of the Grivel's - just a pain on all aspects. If one thinks of ice screw placement any other time but under the stress of leading, it is very easy to figure out the max twist position, how not to drop it, etc. - got CM-s even before they had an extra rotating hanger and they placed great. - then got a DMM to try and it placed better than all others at the time, too bad they do not have an "express" twisting contraption. - this year's BD-s place as good as DMM, and have the knob, and rack great. Now I just use Petzl and BD, both have unique advantages, like simply hitting the BD hanger to brake off a small ice chunk is not possible with P if you happen to choose such a spot in a hurry. Petzl - what glassgo said plus easier to screw on closer to your torso.
  8. Don, on an unrelated note, do you know how high the bolts go on Shreddie and what the M rating concensus is? Thank you.
  9. Please let me know. Thank you in advance!
  10. FS: BD Spectre, never used.

    $20. The picture below has a different colored sling from mine.
  11. The whole package is sold.
  12. Sabretooth with a green OR Crampon Bag - $90. Used but in a very good shape, I just climbed Carl's Berg with them. It turns out I have another pair! Brand new middle bars, plus shorter bars for all boot sizes. Charlet-Moser S-12 with strap-on binding, in excellent condition - $50. This one similar to the newer Petzl Vasak with Flexlock binding. Smiley 17cm ice screw with a knob - $25. Buy any two items and get a free Petzl Spirit 'biner
  13. Group at Rambles 1/19-20

    I heard that great alpine climbs often require tyrollean-s across rivers. A convenient, easy place is right across Synchronicity... I'd donate a ratcheting thingy for rope tightening.
  14. FS: Crampons - Sabretooth and S-12, Ice Screw

    Last call. Will sell Sabretooth for $75 w/bag, $65 - without. S-12 - $40. Smiley - $20.
  15. FS: OR Gore-Tex Gaiters

    I have 3 pairs of OR Crocodile Alpine Gaiters, all black. Sizes: Small, Large*, XL. $10 per pair. LG no longer available for $10, it had a non-finctional seam problem, so I just went to OR and got a brand new pair (in red) no questions asked. One pair of Large Rocky Mountain High Gaiters - $10.
  16. FS: OR Gore-Tex Gaiters

    ZimZam, sent vyou a PM with my phone, you can call me to finalize.
  17. Here is a site with reviews: MARKILL STORMY Weight: 1lb 9oz Two pots Built-in wind protection. I used it just once. Has scratches from storing and moving. No defects, perfect condition for an aluminum piece of gear. Currently occupies valuable space. $65.
  18. SOLD: BD Cobra Ice Tools + extras

    Ah, should have posted a phone number. Please call 425-208-2649. R.
  19. Any Info On Synchro Log Crossing?

    Thanks jmace! I first used the log I think back in 2000, so if it has been there all these years then I'll chance it going in. Will post the results.
  20. Any Info On Synchro Log Crossing?

    The older post does not seem to have definitive info for this year...
  21. Any Info On Synchro Log Crossing?

    Aha, thank you, that's what I was looking for! The Search did not work - the climb is misspelled...
  22. Then start doing http://www.crossfit.com/mt-archive2/001921.html I bet my entire rack many lack certain, basic, strengths that few like Tim take for granted (yo, Tim, how's life?), perhaps w/out even recognizing. Easy to find though if you start looking seriously. Once I learned (a tiny bit) it is so interesting to observe others and being able to read their "fitness map". ok, gotta go...
  23. Five fingered shoe opinions?

    some info here: http://www.gordonpirie.com/
  24. Is thata a pull up bar hanging from rafters?
  25. FS: Various Cams

    Selling only because I'd like to try some C4 and C3-s, and don't think will be using extra gear anymore. The following are part of my last extra set, thus little used and in a very good shape. 3 Wild Country Technical Friends: 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, $20/each. Large Metolius Blue - #7 - is about same size as DB Camalot 2". Not regularly used, $25. Black Diamond Camalot 1" and 2" - $30 each. These are from my regular rack, fine shape. Metolius #2, #3 yellow, orange, $22 each. Not regularly used.
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