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Everything posted by Rafael_H

  1. Belay Methods

    Hmmm, that BUS is pretty cool. Wear wrist weights and add squats to that - a prety good workout!
  2. [TR] Chair Peak - NF 2/2/2010

    Plenty of new wet snow there, saw loads of skiers at the "Thumb" last Sun (2/7). Went alone on Dane's hint, was foggy and snowing the entire day - there were reportedly a party of 2 and another soloist ahead of me, and a party on the NE Butresss but by the time I was on top ~2:45PM there were no traces of any footprints. Also SAR was all over the mountain and left a pure staircase to the base by 1PM, but when I got down after 5PM, only hints of all those prints remained. Couldn't even butt-slide far. These nice guys let me go ahead, thank you!!! See the tools, reminded me that Simpson's Eiger feaure, sans wool gloves
  3. [TR] Snoqualmie Ice Video - 2/2/2010

    Nice video, liked it. Thank you. Does not change the fact that there is no ice in WA. Like it or not it is sport ice/mixed/dry-tool that's the name of the game. What we got is the walker's paradise, winter or summer.
  4. Describe and get it. Rafael
  5. Not at all, it's 6 that's absent and sorely missed! To me anyway... Sat conditions were quite good in fact, the angle and configuration were easy, but ice - quite chandeliered, laminated and thin in places. Just too short, and no worm-hole to Banff...
  6. New Quark Ergo!

    Well, given now 3 tools the next best beta would be to find out the actually intended uses and reasons for the line-up. Clearly Quark and Nomic are upgrades, what about the Ergo, in intent, not official mumbo-jumbo? Really dry tooling on super steep terrain, or some mixed use possible by average folk? Because of the length of the upper shaft seems to be suited for rock more than ice. Also, with so few canges to the new Nomic and so many people already having them... I am in for a $50 custom end piece Again, thank you so much!!!
  7. New Quark Ergo!

    I thought you lived in WA... Awesome, but painful stoke, man.
  8. 20 years old video ...

    Jan 2010 WI3...
  9. 2009/2010 Washington Ice

    Went to L-worth for the first time w/Gene. Was fun to recognize the familiar summertime playground. We climbed Careno Left and Right on Sun. Both in good shape. The whole day was clear, no precip, no sun. The ice was not wet at all, although the Left climb is deteriorating at the top just a bit on the left side and rock is showing (I had to traverse right a bit to not scratch on rock). There is a good piton anchor on top. BETA: On rappel saw a really easy way up staying in the right coner between ice and rock. The Careno Right has 3 columns, left and center are good, we skipped the rightmost one - too short and easy . The columns are largely freestanding and one can look behind, love that. They were thick and solid for screws, a moot point given how short the columns are. Center column is the most fun, alhtough there is a curtain on the left tha could be fun, I just didn't think of it then. We made a 2 "Abalakov" anchor, rapped twice. I suspect there is a good chance the climbs might survive this week's weather. Lastly, I almost complained how poor the area is for ice, but we met a nice trio from Portland( thanks for pushing the car!), so am thankful for what there is. No pics, forgot cameras.
  10. nice!!! what about the Body Shop?
  11. Is it worth dying for?

    What else was in around Banks?
  12. Hi. I "woke up" too late and no shipping could do to get me a pair of picks before this upcoming weekend. Will anybody please help me purchase a pair of Cascade Picks for Nomic ice tool at Vancouver MEC? (tel. 604.872.7858). MEC web page, Product Number: 5014-186. The best way to exchange would be to meet in Lillooet during the Christmas weekend, or I can make a stop in Vancouver. I will pay cache or arrange purchasing at MEC in advance. And if ice climbing in Lillooet - the dessert is on me! I would really appreciate any help! Rafael
  13. HELP for a Purchase @ Vancouver MEC !!!

    Don't need anymore - got them from Mountain Gear. There is still a pair on hold for me at the Vancouver store in case someone wants them. Thanks everybody for the feedback.
  14. Muscle Fatigue with Leashless Tools Question

    Ice is "cool", but leashless is not. It is rather a very practical matter, and as such leashes are obsolete by now. No. It certainly is a matter of skill and training, but if ice is so cool you need to start acquiring it (the skill that is) anyway. A tool without a palm (pinky) support implement cannot be practically used without a leash. But as soon as you attach such an implement to a tool somehow I say just drop the leash. Do make or buy "umbillicals", but start out without a leash (you'll thank me later )!
  15. Looking for Ice Climbing partners for 2010

    sh'up, 'stard'n'call 'fore you leave )
  16. The Eiger?

    Yup. So much of what's done now is just sport climbing in comparison, with "what matters" having been switched from guts to money... Awesome! Thank you, Dane, more than you know. Merry Christmas to everyone!!!
  17. Looking for Ice Climbing partners for 2010

    PM sent Where in Methow Valley are you staying?
  18. HELP for a Purchase @ Vancouver MEC !!!

    J, I would really appreciate it. Thank you so much for trying!
  19. waterproofing gloves?

    Both definitely work, warm the gloves up before applying and keep in a warm place for some time afterwards, say an hour. The treatment does not last forever and needs to be reapplied eventually, depending on how often they get wet.
  20. Drury Falls mishap

    Well, I am here so... Not much to report, really. Put the boat in, paddle broke, lost 5 - 10 secs and ended up in a stronger stream. A smaller footprint boat was not as stable, etc. From a storytelling perspective "Climbing"-s mini-epics are most often more dramatic, or funny. I recall the Banff ice guide's story about dudes getting totally soaked in Ghost valley but finishing a WI5 climb! I'd definitely "humbly" bragged if we went and climbed even say Hubba Hubba I actually was the first one to reject the idea of putting the wet boots and pants on. BTW, Careno area had some pretty good looking ice. To be sure, very, very grateful to be alive, leave unscathed, to retrieve all our gear and that SAR was super-kind to let us take it, and police being kind and encouraging! SAR costs, Obama death panels and birth certificates, ghosts, vampires, Tiger Woods, breakfast cereal - man, you name a thing and there will be loads and loads of fat, and not so fat people, grandmas included, shouting at the top of their lungs and gathering stones or kindling. Does anybody have stats about the costs of highway accident recoveries, versus say all others combined? CC - the "boiler-maker guy" Gary was the most stern, but clearly a very skilled rafter, it was amazing to go back in their raft - we had to paddle as well - and follow his commands, made crossing feel really easy, and cool in fact.
  21. HELP for a Purchase @ Vancouver MEC !!!

    Fri 25th... 425-208-2649
  22. HELP for a Purchase @ Vancouver MEC !!!

    I could also try to purchase it over the phone and have one pick it up in the store to then either ship it to me or I'd pick up in person. Thanks again.
  23. Nomics

    Ah, here is from Dane's(?) site: "The modified Hammer adds 40g, albeit in a destabilizing position furthest from the pick point. Removing the Nomic pick weights eliminates 60g mass to compensate. The addition makes no discernable change in swing action."
  24. Nomics

    I had to pound a pin last w-end with a Quark, and also used my own Nomics for the first time - absolutely superb tool despite the fact I did not like them at first 2 years ago (never rush to judge, eh!, ). So obviously am now interested in a Nomic hammer mod. The pick weight-pieces are 60g per tool (2 per one pick). Quark hammer factory weight is 80g . Once a good chunk is removed to fit Nomic's head I suspect it'd weigh the same as those weight-pieces. Of course weight-piece position matters - don't know how significantly, but at least the total weight would be similar if weight-pieces are traded for a modified hammer. I suspect - just pure non-scientific intuition - that the diference might be negligible. Any field experience/feedback?