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Everything posted by Rafael_H

  1. Hey folks! I'd like to walk in and rap down over climbs between (and including) Iron Horse/Sagittarius and Japanese Gardens to set up solo TRs. Let's assume first pitches only for now as I have never been above and would not recognize tiers above first when looking down. Where should I go? After looking at the books I am thinking the safest rightmost part of the Shield that I can walk up to directly with a pack and two ropes. Is that far enough east to rap more or less straight down? Going there tomorrow morning though... Only if you've done it! Thanks!!!!
  2. To Tape or Not to Tape?

    Quite a good question. From climbing perspective do what you must. I did not use to tape when younger, now there is less meat, and the wounds heal slower and pussed hands look bad in the office - non-climbers are squeamish - so I tape sometimes, and not others, depending on what I am trying to accomplish: climb up, or redpoint. As far as grades go though, it is important to note that taping makes climbing easier, whenever a hand jam is involved it makes a h u g e difference, I can personally attest to that: sweaty hands, smoother/flaring crack, over a pitch up, he-he, tape is easily all the difference between a hang and a flash. There is a (much) smaller price to pay when the hand does not fit in a crack completely because of the tape. So, when claiming some victories... you get the picture Pros tape because their grades are moving the issue into the moot zone, plus they climb far more so it is almost necessary.
  3. Hi everybody. What gear does the first pitch of Sagittarius at Index take after the piton? I top-roped it just once a while ago and recall it not easing up after pulling the roof. If I am wrong, then forget it. If it is indeed sustained at .11 then a fall can be... what, up to 30+ft? and perhaps slamming the wall if the last piece is under the roof. Thanks!
  4. Shameless Gear Beta Request - Sagittarius

    Aha, great, thanks Sol!!! Hey, see you out there sometime!
  5. ROCK swing!

    That actually would hurt the stone, where is the outrage that Dean Potter got?! It's not climbing so nothing to feel jealous about, i guess...
  6. [TR] Cody Ice Conditions - 11/17/2011

    Many south side climbs are in good shape. I got hit by a rock while rapping off of the very first route - High On Boulder. My fault for building a rap anchor right on the line. Really lucky that it swiped my upper arm first before landing on the forearm. With more luck might climb again this season. Top pitch not yet formed if I am looking at the right place: First 2 pitches and the Moonrise: Cody was great: really nice people, Holiday Inn is very clean, all valley climbs are lined up along the road with easy access and not too much hiking and with many climbs having multiple pitches - just perfect. Judging by our route the ratings are not at all sandbagged. We took waders and river crossing was a piece of cake - cross almost anywhere you want. Saw huge bear paw prints! Will definitely go there again!
  7. [TR] Cody Ice Conditions - 11/17/2011

    Aaron, thank you so much for posting the conditions info, really nice of you to drive all aroundthe valley to give an update. Have a fast recovery, you will be stronger than before!
  8. Hi! I would like to climb in Squamish 10- to 11- for 3 days, or possibly something alpine. Open to other options as well. Have been planning to climb the Complete North Ridge of Stuart from the toe but never happened, so an good option. Wine spires, or newer climbs around Dragontail. Rafael
  9. North Norwegian Buttress action?

    That (cool) individual's routes are regularly climbed and loved by many. Controversy? I wonder where it's coming from in our loving and agreeable society? Yeah, yeah, keep waxing...
  10. [TR] Mount Stuart - Complete North Ridge 7/26/2010

    Really sweet shots! Nice!!!
  11. Wow, Steph, I seldom look forward to cc TRs - I get all the mags, mailings, blogs... Except for now - your site (and that I am grounded myself again...) Thanks, and "... more, more, more"! Um, you should go to Alaska, it's really nice there
  12. Ah, sooo cool! I always said that BC got the best part of PNW. Nice job!
  13. Indeed a great trip and a great TR. Made my morning. Thanks!!!
  14. Wow, wow, wow, awesome, and inspiring, you gus are slaying it! Can't wait for a rematch with the Dragon.
  15. [TR] Mount Stuart - West Ridge 7/24/2010

    Wow, this is where it's all going now eh? Hmmm, a new pair of shoes or a DVR... Nice.
  16. [TR] Prusik Peak - Stanley-Bergner 7/22/2010

    Nice! Could you please estimate how long it took to walk up to Prusik from Snow Creek PL? Thanks
  17. [TR] Index - Green Drag-on 5.13- 7/22/2010

    Super-awesome Mikey! Right-on!
  18. Very nice Marc! So cool, what a stoke!
  19. Exit 38 - Gun Show New Routes

    What's that orange stuff in the upper left corner?
  20. [TR] Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge 7/11/2010

    Wow, Steph, you are so awesome! Love your photo-TRs and your site. The best of luck to you!!!
  21. [TR] Snow Creek Wall - HYPERSPACE 7/6/2010

    Awesome, J! I've been really wanting to go up that one recently and keep being sidetracked. Thanks for the beta Who's dancing, the usual suspect?
  22. Awesome, Mikey!!! "...dug deeper into the core of why I climb and found the remaining strength..." - thanks for the stoke.
  23. [TR] Gunsight Peak - S Face 6/17/2010

    A great trip and a nice TR, really enjoyed it. Good job guys, thanks for the stoke!