Rafael_H

Gone.

quote: Originally posted by rodeokevin: Hey Raf, you still got those axes? I'd like to check them out. The axes are at the Feathered Friends (cash only).

Hey, dear CC buddies, so "Climbing" and "R&I" are not worthy. Are there any climbing magazines worth reading? I agree, any of Florine's so called accomplishments are crap and boring. And that Twight dude is just too arrogant and unsafe. I'd much rather read TR's on CC about scrambling up the West Ridge of Forbidden but the problem is there are no cool pictures on CC. See, if every TR was accompanied by a nice shot, I'd definitely cancel my subscriptions too...

quote: Originally posted by LUCKY: ... But Lucky, you see, there are all those beginner bumblys, bird watchers, hikers, shiny SUV owners there. It's just too clean and pretty and, yak, they sell trendy gimmicks there. It doesn't have the most advanced gear and the best in their fields as employees that can give instant beta and spend their nights studying all the pieces of equipment there are in the store. I just found out that nobody in the climbing dept climbs M10, outrageous, they don't deserve that $8/hour!!! The return policy is such a disgusting rule that every reasonable climber should be picketing at the store demanding to abolish it. How can you even think of shopping there?

Old (and old fashioned) pins on Damnation didn't seem to be able to hold a fall, I never clipped them. 2 small cams can be placed in that chimney section: purple TCU sized and forgot what.

Moon-climbing? Yes, if it's gonna be 82F under the sun...

Well, let's see. It is usually cold in mountains and often rains in PNW, so it's quite possible that there is some snow there. But then again, there may be not...

Leavenworth be it, I am in and will bring those things and some bottled beer as well.

Used for one winter only, excellent condition, no any defects whatsoever. Also there are heel hooking spurs - $15. have: 2 pairs, do not have: job need: money (alas)

If I make it I'll bring the garbage bags, some toilet paper and some paper towels. I am assuming people bring their usual camping utensils but can pick a small amount of plates. I'll sing too if you insist but only from behind a stone wall.

Regular or Rambo Comp with all the spare parts from double-point setup and 2 additional mono points! $100 /each (and Barrabes does not sell them!)

Price just reduced - $280 ! Barrabes sells a different, I think worse, version for $125. Here you get 2 x $100 for tools plus 2 x $30 for extra picks + $30 for the Mixed Hook plus Adzes and a bonus 'biner. Nobody will sell the extras for less if at all. Extra SM Saf-Lock leash included.

Thanks to all

Well, does anybody know where to get cable similar to one used for nuts and cams? Thanks.

At Home De-Pot i saw an assortment of wire cables and the strength posted on the cable the same size as on nuts is 125 pounds! What da hell?!!! It was not a typo either as a wire as thick as my pinky was 850 lbs. Then the same evening I came acrossa book that said "to safely lift a 16 ton object you need a cable 2 inches in diameter". Something's wrong. Can anybody explain, please? Thank you.

To add: I feel that leaving some gear far in the mountains for several days to be retrieve later and without a note is not the smartest thing to do.

quote: Originally posted by Stefan: Would I take rope if it was fixed to large rock wall? No. Why? Becuase it is traditionally found that someone is probably using it as fixed line completing a route. Would I take a fixed line in the Cascades and no one around on a moderate route? Once again, I will say yes, because in the Cascades it is traditional that no one leaves stuff behind--coming across a rope hanging there on a route in the Cascades is highly unusual. Mattski if you are a guide, then you definitely have pencil and paper to leave a note--it is part of your first aid kit. This discussion would never happen in the Alps. If you leave anything behind, you will never see it again--wether you are a guide or not. Well, Stefan, 2 years ago I rapped down Breakfast of Champions at dusk and the ropes got stuck. We were late for Greg's party so left the ropes, got up very early in the morning and with pounding hearts rushed to the ropes and got them. Now what if you were there just as we were approaching? Would you be fighting for the "just" ownership of the ropes? What if I met you coming down with my ropes? 5 mintes later? Is it any different from passing by and not helping: "you screwed up, not me"? Alps don't matter, it's a matter of personal ethics. As you can see everybody's assumptions were wrong in Matt's case and he was around. This is a tough question, a rusty cam, scratched nut stuck on the third pitch are different from a pair of shoes at the base of a crag and I am really just against that cowboy attitude towards "booty" exhibited by far too many people I know.

Just a bit more. -Where does one get 5/16 buttonheads, HW store? Will just a regular stainless steel bolt do? Should one trust such a buttonhead when encountered (I haven't so far)? -Has sanybody used those removable bolts that look like Lowe Balls? -Is it still bad if the 1/4" is stainless and has a hanger? How should one bolt those weird and insecure handcracks: every 2 or 3 feet? "Disclaimer": The likelihood of me installing any bolts is very-very low. Yet I consider it foolish to be unaware of this option and its proper use.

quote: Originally posted by EddieE: ... saran wrap ... Never heard off this but sounds logical. Have you used it? What for and how do you keep it?

Yes! In fact, even if epic, what if those 2 nuts save someone else's ass maybe years later. Stuck gear and biners on V-threads is different though. I personally don't mind returning to the owners nevertheless.

Almost lost my sun-glasses at the base of Cathedral this June, ran back and got them. It was then when I changed my mind on booty. My friend who is very good and sharp and loves booty almost left his $100 glasses, good thing I noticed. I don't criticize Stefan, myself went to get the cam from Tooth, almost cleaned a bunch of gear on Forbidden (didn't want to delay the party though), but think it is more honorable to return the booty, if possible of course. I lost a quick draw in L-worth myself for the first time and would really appreciate to get it back.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: ... Oh and where can I get a non Smoot guidebook? ... [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 08-31-2001).] I have a thin guidebook I got from Jim Nelson, you can borrow. Never made it there though.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I hear Peter Puget is good at installing them (DDD?) Installing what, bolts or...?

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: ...Let us know how it works after you test it out. Remeber, the item 4 started with that short word... Unless there is a special diet, so one can do before an expedition.

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: For emergency bailing: ... 4) If you've got a pencil dick it should easily fit into a 1/4" hole. And if you need help keeping it up, just think of Christian Griffith in Danskins. That's more fit for belay anchors. Also gotta be able to concentrate really well!