Rafael_H

Ha, I get it now, the names, I mean , pretty cool. Don't mess with Cascades looks like Sorry to hear somebody died. Pencil is thick but didn't touch the bottom. [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

quote: Originally posted by JayB: 1. Less prep before placing the screw. When placing a BD screw one has to clean a circle 4" in diameter in order to crank the screw in all the way to the hanger... I have to pass on the beta I got: when placing a BD or similar screw it is possible to hit the lever with a hammer to pass through minor bulges instead of cleaning them. I tried and it works well.

Thanks, Jay, that's a pity. I have too many 22's and need more shortys. Alas... Happy climbing! [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

One of the climbs that definitely stood out for me was Grotto Canyon, very cool approach and beaiutiful surroundings. Climbing is not bad if you count in the mixed routes, but very well worth visiting.

Last year this time I was climbing ice at Alpental and Lillooet. And now... there is nothing there yet!

quote: Originally posted by JayB: ... Also - I'll be flying out to Seattle this Sunday, and will happily trade my BD express screws (22cm) for 22cm 360s if they are in comparable condition (the BD's are more or less in mint condition).... I have a 17cm 360 with that racking sleeve in a mint(!!!) condition. Want to trade for a BD Express 17 or shorter in the same condition? [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

epb, the Sabertooth frontpoints look flat headed, like a screwdriver but shoud be sharp out of the box. If not you can probably exchange them or do warranty stuff with BD. If impossible I for one would be happy to buy them from you. On the other hand, keep them and you won't regret when climbing steep ice.

quote: Originally posted by James: what's the condition of the rambos? prerusted for convienence antiballing plate? See for yourself at the Feathered Friends. The points that are on are probably unused. The extra points are used but cleaned and oiled. The double point set is never used.The paint comes off at the tips the first day so sorry. Look at your own crampons and tools, you're bound to find some brown somewhere. No anti-balling plates. The extra point kit is about $50 and double-point setup is not a bad thing. That's $75 value right there. The whole package is $90. The crampons were used for one season only - no deffects or mistreatment. I thought I needed 2 pairs of mono-point crampons but found that I don't. Oops, latest correction: the double points are missing for one crampon. So the bargain is demoted to a deal: $90 for crampons, 2 spare mono points, spare front bails and nuts'n'bolts. In store the setup is $160+$52+tax. OK, the latest info: the deal is back to 2 pairs of dual points (thanks to Dan E who generously provided me with the missing points). The deatils are in a new post. [ 12-26-2001: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: rafael i have been thinking of getting a 360 or two,why didnt you like them? I personally don't like:1 - how they rack, I can't take them out nearly as fast as any other screw and I can't put too many on one racking 'biner. Unfortunaly I am not one of those super-cool dudes on pictures that climb with just 3 or 4 screws in the rubber sleeves. 2 - when starting there is less leverage to get the screw in and the crank handle sometimes flaps and is in the way. 3 - screwing in and especially out, when I have to turn really fast my hand slips out lsowing the entire process, I think the turn radius is too big. I feel there is more chance to drop the thing after unscrewing. The funny thing is that I saw not a single non-theoretical advantage to jsutify paying even the same price as BD Express or even CM Laser. BTW, just try the Lasers, they do go in better than any other, I think the teeth are more aggressive. The trade is still open [ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

quote: Originally posted by erik: raphel can i buy the mono point kit off of you?? $90 sorry, mon

I have both and used them side by side the whole last week. Cobras are way better for a beginner. One can get a better stick right away and your hand is more protected from getting wet before you master the technique. Same, or even more so, for bashing the knuckles. I think Rages have a small advantage on lower angle terrain when I wanted to go fast and was gripping the tool anywhere along the shaft. Obviously the aluminum makes them more fit for high abuse cituations. In all cases make sure the leashes are long enough with the gloves on - pinky touches the spike.

Was cleaning my gear from the recent (first) trip to Banff and decided to share my findings. Crampons. I used BD Bionic, Sabertooth and previously Grivel Rambo. I was amazed when, at my friend's advice, I tried Sabertooths on ice up to WI4, they worked better than monopoint Bionics! Later after switching to monos I really missed the Sabertooths. I feel that in most conditions where ice is not smooth up to WI5+ I prefer the Sabertooth (I think it's not just the dual points that do the magic butu the overall design of the front part). Although I think that for climbing rock a monopoint is better for me I saw a guy climb M6+ in his Sabertooths and do all the drop-knees and back steps and what not very smoothly. I found that matching feet is easier with monos. Ice tools.I used BD Cobras and Rages. While very close Cobras do perform better, just easier to get a good stick. I'd use Rages in high abuse situations. Leashes.BD Android sucks for me, no justification for any moderate use: ice (WI5), rock(M6+), snow. For mixed routes it is easier to just drop the tool to protect and then re-grab it. One can also strap the leashes to the tool close to the hand with velcro - easier to grab but would be harder to place screws. Advanced climbers have a better chance with Adroids for mixed climbing because it takes more skill, experience and strength to hang the tool on yourself or the other one, unclip the Android and clip back to it without dropping it. Screws.BD Express rules! I find that CM Laser bites and screws in better but the absence of a crank handle is a significant disadvantage. Ice clippers.4 racking carabiners is the better or screws fall out. BD Ice Clipper is great. Mountain Magic in Banff is out of rubber ID's, bring from home. Gloves.BD Ice Glove once again proved crappy: not dexterous enough to lead or rappel (setting and breaking the stations). They also froze up and became very stiff. Still very cold. I use Seirus slalom gloves ($70 at REI) and so far it is the most dexterous warm glove I've seen. Check out the newest Lowe Alpine ice climbing glove. My very exeperienced friend uses only thin gloves, but then he got screamin' barfies all the time, i had none. Of course gear matters less for more experienced but cold and very early starts are a challenge enough for my bones... And, finally, there I was, climbing M14 with a sandwich between my teeth when... Oh, oops, wrong place

I have a 17 cm Grivel 360 ice screw in excellent condition, used for one day the last season, absolutely no defects, comes with that rubber carrying sleeve. Will trade for BD Express or CM Laser of similar or shorter length and comparable condition. I just can't stand those 360's. Won't sell (half price) because it's in almost brand new shape.

quote: Originally posted by Yungaburra: are they bibs or just pants? Pants. Gone. Grivel Rambo monopoint crampons with extra mono points and a dual point kit - $90. [ 12-17-2001: Message edited by: Rafael H ]

Cutting switchbacks sucks! quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: ... How about the trail to Givler's Dome? ... How about the network of trails on the top of the mesa at Frenchman's Coulee? or the climber's "trail" from Blue Lake TH to the ridge below the South Arete?My point is, if there is an established trail, use it. What a lousy reason to further the restrictions at our playgrounds. Totally agree! Run the whole trail carc to car in 2 hours then brag about it. Top of the mesa at FC - screwed up, How hard is it to use the trgular trail?

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: We all suck at ice climbing. If we were any good, we wouldn't live in western Washington! Yeah, but it is closer to Banff than western Oregon...

In my experience, while what works depends on many variables, expensive gloves like BD Ice Glove are not worth the price. Moreover, I found them just not worthy in general. After some thought I decided to keep mine for... rappels. I may still sell them. I'd recommend trying all the inexpensive alternatives first having the emphasis on dexterity: it is best if one can climb without taking the gloves off to protect.

Marmot Expedition Mitt-s does not have a trigger finger, per their web site ( http://www.marmot.com/products/gloves/glove_prod_mtn_exped.html ) and I saw them in the store. Is it insulated with primaloft? $99 new? Let me know. Thanks.

Moonstone 3-ply Gore-Tex full side zip pants, large, black - $80 The North Face Wiindstopper vest, blue, large - $40 Garmont Sticky Weekend, US 7, - $50 All items are in great condition.

Thank you I wanted the mitt described on the Marmot site and thought you might have mistyped or something. I don't like separate trigger finger construction mitts. Good luck.

A quick question. So how can I create a link that when clicked on opens a new browser instance?

Nowadays the BD Blizzard harness comes with one Ice Clip.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: Does anyone know where you/I can buy some of those Arcterex Ice Devices? My buddy has these and they rock for racking screws. I have tried the Trango clips and they only suck a lot. I have tried the old bicycle tube on a bnet gate biner and it is OK...but those ice devices rock. Feathered Friends has them.

Osama Bill... What a guy. I wonder how far one like that can go? What if he was lobotomized and then directed to fight the Wilderness Fees But seriously: 1. Definitely shouldn't have used private property silently. Should not do it in the future either. From non-climbing owner's or any official manager's prospective restricting is the best: simple, no headaches and potential misinterpretation. 2. Could Access Fund purchase the cliffs only and establish a small trail easment, we'd all help build a single trail? What and how something like this was done in Squamish, at Smoke Bluffs? I wish all the bolt/no-boilt energy was directed towards access or improved, "advanced" access/ownership issues.

Heck, nobody wanted mine. How's $30: no defects, no tax, used just a couple of times, comes with the plastic holster?