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Rafael_H

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Everything posted by Rafael_H

  1. You don't need it, give it to me But if you're so greedy, then- hang the biner from the gear loop- pull the ID ober biner's lip- slide to the gear loop- then open the gate and, stretching the ID slide it over the gate. Use the roundy tab for that. ID is rubbery, so it will hold the biner in place and won't slide off. Perfect thing. Where did you get the yellow ones? They go fast!
  2. I don't see why the discussion should deteriorate into such radical propositions, "US [i.e. capitalism] is..." or "US isn't...". Not many (in a calm state of mind) would argue agains free enterprise and market economics, or the good of civilized and well organized society. Wherever we are, there are different ways of proceeding and that is the point of this discussion I thought. And there definitely exists a struggle between the greed of few and good for many. And any himan society has had and will for at least some time have a government, a controlling body. So the question is how liberal, by the words definition, the control is. Don't make fools of yourselves dissing liberty. It is what allowed our country to be so great. Comparisons to police states are ignorant, sorry. I don't want to ealborate any further, it is so obvious when one moves that gray matter. Just want to comment that Dwayner's quotes are out of context and inapplicable. Oh, and BTW, if it wasn't for liberties, Dwayner, you may have long be shot. This is the greatest country because of the degree of democracy and liberalism.
  3. But you see, W, there are no textbooks on "understanding of the self", there aren't even "Idiot's understanding of the self" or "Understanding of the Self for Dummies"! And so as long as the material world is of a concern for you, sides are bound to be taken. You belong to one implicitly, even non-action is a vocal statement. And so even if the regulation causes what I call "disabled black woman" sindrome in the government (and yes, they often make decisions for us) I prefer (publicly)controlled regulation to free-for-all. Because in the latter case, by the time the Who-needs-the-spotted-owl Fairweather figures he chopped too many trees, situation is irreversible.
  4. quote: Originally posted by Dru: ...Maybe aliens are abducting them ??? Get a BD Alien Shieldor, only $99.95, comes in three colours.
  5. Oh, just remembered. Operator error, I grabbed the screw that wasn't on top of the stack so the top almost fell off, I just caught it with my leg. So, no, Ice Clipper is fine with me. Still, due to the short distance to the biner's lip it could come off. Just saw the Ushba thing on their web site. Just from looking at it I see no big advantage before Ice Clipper. They should have designed it so that the butt side is up, which would have greatly improved it against accidental unclipping. (Heck, I can even see how to do that with just a strand of steel wire, super simple! In fact, I'm gonna make one.) On the good side this is one clipper that can somewhat alleviate Grivel 360 racking problems.
  6. Huh, and I gather the only place to get a look at it is PMS... Jim, do you have it? I know you "can get one" I like the BD Ice Clipper but almost lost a screw once and yes, the trick is not to overload. Following Dale's advice I now have 2 Ice Clippers and two wire gates so between 4 spots each one has a lighter load. I can see that "leaning up against the rock/ice, climbing tight chimneys, awkward steps", high steps can make screws come out of Ice Clippers.
  7. quote: Originally posted by Dru: arent you worried if you took that many pictures of your ass you might start to notice it growing? Ha-ha-ha, funny, I meant "posts above", you smartass
  8. quote: Originally posted by Dru: How about: if you could define one day of ideal climbing... Ideal, you say? Well, leaving Seattle early, driving in the rain to Squamish with hopes for some miraculous dryness right around the Chief, too wet, driving back to Leavenworth, still raining, continuing on to Vantage - pouring, proceeding to Smith - drizzly, windy and cold, turning around, stopping at the grocery store, buying a Powerball ticket and arriving home late Sunday night. In a month or so going back to Smith, checking the ticket and finding you won 30 million, driving to Bend, buying a Polaroid, taking a pic of your ass, sending it to the boss and then... actually DO all of the above, in a row, and then again and again!
  9. mattp and Dru, I know a guy who used BD ICe Clippers to make a leashless tool. He broke those clippers in two and then attached them to the tool like hooks, lower one for the pinkie and the upper for the trigger finger. He used hose clumps and tape for attaching.
  10. quote: Originally posted by zippy monkey boy: ...the best for that is the heart from ushbagota try it to like it, all around thing, worksbest here and there. Sounds interesting. I have never seen such a thing but can imagine how it works: a heart shaped springy wire with the screws going in/out of the butt-shaped side? How is the "heart" attached to the harness? Perhaps with an ID? Wouldn't it then stick too far out?
  11. Today took Wild Things Andinista for the third time with a heavier load, 55 lb, and think I lost money on the damn thing. Can't pinpoint why, but it really hurts my back. Wild Things makes packs for different torso lengths, one must choose the proper size! A week or so ago climbed a steeper hill with the same 55 lbs in a BD Ice Pack 50 and it was perfect both up and down the hill! Also used it in Banff. I really like it and the price is right. Lafuma is another very good pack.
  12. quote: Originally posted by David Parker: Maybe they should charge people to go into the mountains so only the rich people will go there! If only rich people were allowed in the mountains all of them would be reduced to fancy living blocks with expensive condo's, trams, elevators, moving stairs and what not, and there would be a rotating restaurant on top of Everest. I wonder what are they going to do with the Castleton Tower proper, blow it up so it doesn't topple on their beautiful lawns or enforce with steel and build a spiral staircase to the top? (read Climbing, send money!)
  13. It took me one climb at Index (I wanted to be completely objective) to make up my mind and just one look for Dale. These things are a piece of shit! And in fact, even tapering won't help because the cams are too wide. "Bomber cam", ha-ha-ha, I'd like to witness Todd using them on something one grade higher than his solo level and 150 ft up!
  14. quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: FWIW, If you want cables ... Thank you for the offer, it is simpler to try those guys at Squamish.
  15. quote: Originally posted by chris_w: You can get the avy report at http://www.seawfo.noaa.gov/products/SABSEA... Great, thank you!
  16. Phil, where did you get today's avy forecast, forgive me for ignorance? Thanks!
  17. After some consideration I think that practically for somebody like me, with no access to special equipment it is just as expensive and more troublesome to replace with wire as it is with webbing. Another disadvantage is weight. I also disagree with all the other comments, even including the placement one.
  18. I wonder if it is possible to use steel cable to resling BD, WC and even Metolius and Aliens? This may possibly be cheaper in a long run and racking would be easier. Some placement problems can occur though but I'd think it'd be worth a try unless there is a serious problem with doing so, such as, wire cutting the cam's body, etc. Does anybody have such experience or intelligent thoughts on this? Black Diamond, EW, what do you think? Thanks.
  19. quote: Originally posted by chris_w: ...Added my 2 ... There may be enough for coffee by now, gotta go check it out.
  20. Try highrises. Good training for climbving Everest under a chemical attack.
  21. I personally saw this at Index. A guy set a top-rope on Iron Horse with his rope running through a Gri-Gri, a rope bag with some weight on the break side and himself on the climber's side. While the weight (bag) was free-hanging everything went smoothly. Then the wall bulged out a bit and the bag wouldn't come down. The guy was pretty amaized, said he'd done this before and, this is the funny thing, climbed unbelayed quite a ways. He was going to hit the deck if fell. Then he hung on to the rock while i tied a Jumar to his rope. I forgot if he had another one hanging or what, I just had to climb a short way up, to the first good stance. Anyway, if the route is overhanging then it can work. No lowering though!
  22. How does one get to Mazama from Seattle now? Through Wenatchee? How close is it possible to drive to the Washington Pass? Anybody? I saw a pic of Steve House climbing on South EW Spire.
  23. quote: Originally posted by Alex: Rafael, for 24.95 I will send you an autographed print of myself climbing South EW Spire.... Weird business, Alex, why would you sell your poster for less than postage (34.000049 cents)? You don't mean 24 bucks, do you? For that you'd have to be published in "Climbing" first, eh? BTW, are you Alex Bertulis? I was interested in the FA of the North Face of Nooksack in 1973. Pretty cool. OK, Beck and others, where do you park you car in winter? The place you described is I think before the campground, which would be covered anyway. It is too long of a drive to just explore, min $60 both ways.
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