jhamaker

I'm prepared for gates, not sure about snow. Any guesses on where the snow will start on the rds between Acme and Daily Prairy?

Not this James.

W/ some digging, there are some spots around 12k on FF, but closer to the Kautz.

I wanna traverse it Monday.

Que c'est beau! 'Faut que j'y aille uen saison bien proche.

How is winter climbing there different than summer? Is this comparable to N American seasons, or does one just worry about dodging the wet seasons?

I'm up here on a job. I love April and May up here (what I call the Delta ski mountaineering season). I've climbed most of the two and three day Delta peaks w/ the AAC and had an absolute blast! I realy want to do longer trips up hear. I once commented to Stan Justice, a long time AAC member, that they were so lucky to have all these expedition possibilities in thier back yard. He responded that the problem was getting out for just the weekend. By the end of May, everyone take to the water. See http://www.fairbankspaddlers.org/ for trip ideas. For sanity's sake, locals take a least two wks off between December and March and head closser to the equator - unless they are avid mushers. There is also a fencing club here, yoga, gyms, ice rinks, a few miles of *lighted* nordic ski trails (two weekends ago, US National Championships were held here). The water is hard, there is a mosquito season, but like anywhere the people make the community, and Alaskans are outright notorious for being gregarious (outside of work anyway). There is one megaplex theater, three large grocery stores, a university and too many bars to count. A 10 by 12 foot dry (no water) cabin will cost you $250-$300. Many folks opt for full utilities minus water. Running water will probably double the price of any accomodation. Cost of living is 150-200 percent higher than WA. If you want to do some exploring in AK after the 3rd wk in April I would not mind driving up w/ you for some trips. P.M. me.

I'm up here on a job. I love April and May up here (what I call the Delta ski mountaineering season). I've climbed most of the two and three day Delta peaks w/ the AAC and had an absolute blast! I realy want to do longer trips up hear. I once commented to Stan Justice, a long time AAC member, that they were so lucky to have all these expedition possibilities in thier back yard. He responded that the problem was getting out for just the weekend. By the end of May, everyone take to the water. See http://www.fairbankspaddlers.org/ for trip ideas. For sanity's sake, locals take a least two wks off between December and March and head closser to the equator - unless they are avid mushers. There is also a fencing club here, yoga, gyms, ice rinks, a few miles of *lighted* nordic ski trails (two weekends ago, US National Championships were held here). The water is hard, there is a mosquito season, but like anywhere the people make the community, and Alaskans are outright notorious for being gregarious (outside of work anyway). There is one megaplex theater, three large grocery stores, a university and too many bars to count. A 10 by 12 foot dry (no water) cabin will cost you $250-$300. Many folks opt for full utilities minus water. Running water will probably double the price of any accomodation. Cost of living is 150-200 percent higher than WA. If you want to do some exploring in AK after the 3rd wk in April I would not mind driving up w/ you for some trips. P.M. me.

Mountaineers lodge at Steven's Pass?

I watched a team practice w/ skiis and sleds on an 8mm rope. The prusicks did not work. If I recall correctly, the 7mm prusicks worked better than the 5mm ones. Definately something you need to try out at home. Don't forget to size your prussicks to each person.

Look me up at the Early Winters camo hoop tent.

Snap-em up! The only way to go for (Tele) skiing in the cooold. I've set mine up to velcro on to my G-tex knickers.

>get a 9mil half rope (50 meter)< I've been getting a *lot* of use out of my 60Mx8mm half ropes ?Beal Icelines?. I tie in to the middle when leading hard rock pitches of 30M or less (lots of stuff like this in the mountains) - this means I'm using double rope technique while leading. For raps and belaying leaders, you will want one of the newer BD devices w/ teeth. I like the Guide. Or a baugette, or a reversino. I pretty much used up my ?Beal Icelines? in just ove a yr of hard use. There is still some life left in them as 50M ropes. Hmm. Depending on the weight of the climber, the half ropes may stretch more than is comfortable on a top rope. So don't fall. Be cautious while lowereing. A fat cheap rope rated single will last for a looong time. Eidelwiess makes ropes w/ extra thick sheathes and some that pass thier "over the edge" test. They have a reputation of being very hard to kill. NB: The best test of when to retire a rope that I've seen involves measuring the exact lenth under a small calibrated load when the rope is new, then re-meauring the lenth after every fall or suspect treatment. But, damn, I forget the important part - what weight load, and what % elongation is acceptable.

Don't feed the bears.

Read this whole thread. In Dec. we were the next pty to climb after a gal fell on p1 and broke anckle. We wished her well then climbed the rt, retrieving her qd's to mail back. So, CBS, you need to come up to Red Rocks and get some altitude. So, you commin up to Red Rocks for the wk-end of April 5 and 6?

Oh, and spend the extra $ on a wind and water resistant shell so you don't have to lug around a tent. (I use tarps below treeline)

Slogg or ski?

Different people sleep at different temps, even given the same insulation. My theory - get the lightest bag you can find that you can still wear all your clothes in. Dissregard the temp rating, measure actual loft for comparison. A bag that zips open for hot nights, and one that alows you to move the down from the top to the bottom is bonus. Better yet get a bag w/o insulation underneath. Though pricy, Feathered Friends lifetime NQA guaranted bags are hard to beat. Normal summer nights, sleep naked. Durring the monthly summer snow, sleep w/ your clothes.

Yep. Kinda a bitch hauling technical gear accross the Baily Range, but worth it. Bring the shortest, lightest rope you can get away with (use a pull cord after the rappels) and use all the other tricks to dump weight. Bears galore in the Queets Basin durring berry season.

I'll be there from 3/26 until 4/9.

I'll be there from 3/26 until 4/10. I'm flying in too, and I love those grade IV's!

Partner desired first wk in April. I lead 5.9 mostly at RR, grade III's and IV's preffered. Happy to lead 5.10 if well protected. I'm also thinking of doing some hiking!

willstrickland That was me leading The Flake, west variation. I'd done the normal start ealier. I, too, was a bit annoyed that a party followed me up my route right on my ass. I'd been set up at my start for some time before the other party moved in. It did not occur to me at the time to ask them to hold on a bit - In hind sight, they probably thought I was on another route altogether. Once I realized the situation, I protected the rt side, leaving the left for the other party to protect in, then I belayed from the top of the flake and waited for them to clear out. Nuf said.

Look for a grey minivan, WA plates.

I've a pulk to sell w/ poles and harness. Hand made. Field reparable. Shorter and ligher than most expeditions sleds. $50