Yos
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Posts posted by Yos
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Anyone with a pulse can walk up DC after spending a day practicing some fundamentals. If you're still unsure just follow RMI's cattle train to the top. Same experience minus the $700 setback.
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Ray, Thanks but I would rather carpool to save on gas.
Anyone else up for Sunday? Got car and ropes.
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How about this weekend?
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Specific Training for the Salathe and Zodiac:
Zodiac: Dodgeball will prepare you for the gear/haulbags that are dropped on this route along with the rare mud falcons.
Salathe: Lead solid 5.10 and you'll still get pumped on the hollow flake (5.9) and ear (5.7). Practice offwidth suffering. Practice transitioning between aid and free.
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The fixed pins on Green Drag-on are not considered booty (some are cracking anyway), leave them be. Second pitch is very slimy when wet. However, you can jump over to Town Crier if you are sick of getting covered in liquid moss. Remember to leave some shake at the top of the third pitch. It will protected from the elements by a large roof.
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Few big cams & HB Offsets in particular. Hammer to remove common booty. Tradition is for soloist climbers to leave a film canister with some swag for the next party(w/ matches).
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The man who introduced us to El Cap passed away last night.
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Started Green Dragon on Sunday but I got sick of climbing through slime and traversed over to smoke-out ledge. It was snowing when I started but once the sun hit the rock dried fast with the exception of the second pitch of Green Dragon and the chimmney on Town Crier. All my shit was soaking wet and muddy when I bailed halfway up.
On another note people need to pack out their garbage. Food wrappers were thrown about the trail and I picked up a ziplock bag full of garbage. It's a measly 20 minute hike down- pack your wrappers and roachs out!
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Where in Kent?
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Never done the route but all pitches are said to go at C1. Give me a yell if you need a partner, I've had University Wall on my tick list for quite a while.
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You are a frequent poster on an online message board... No one gives a shit who you are. This is not a soap opera.
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quote:Originally posted by RURP:This is RURP:By your standards, 20 million American football fans should shut the hell up because they are not out there on the field playing with the brutes. RURP has spoken.
Climbing, unlike football, is not a spectator sport.
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Aliens, esp. offset.
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quote:Originally posted by Terminal Gravity:connect one screamer to my harness rather than several pieces of pro and...Rig the silent partner at the bottom of the pitch
Placing a screamer on your harness would make your tie in point a cluster-fuck. I've worked a screamer into my anchor before, but the critical point in the system is the protection your falling on. The forces generated are much greater on the protection than on the anchor, so if the pro is really mank, slap a screamer to ease your mind. As for leaving the solo device at the belay, well I've never used the Silent Partner before but it seems it would have numerous problems.
But hell, don't take my word for it. If you can figure out a way to self-belay without having to carry a device and loops of rope...well, the world would be a better place.
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Thanks for the referals.
Hey will, do you still rewire cams and make 'heads? If so, how much?
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quote:Originally posted by Wallstein:I use a slip knot as the backup knot because I can tie it one handed and release it one handed. This knot is never weighted because it is used as a stopper knot to lock up the gri-gri.
I usually clip a figure 8 as a backup. By just using a stopper knot you are only backed-up if the grigri merely slips. If the 'biner is cross-loaded and fails you are no longer connected to the rope!
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Anyone know where I can get one of these devices?
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I'm not sure what brand I used, but it was a single point hammock that had a small T-frame that kept the shoulder attachments separated. Movement in restricted and you pretty much have to sleep on your back. Better than sleeping in slings but still a far cry from a 'ledge. Setup is instant and they small and light to haul.
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Steinbok is where they filmed the rock climbing scenes in the movie K2. Never been, but I thought I'd share some mountain trivia.
What information is available on this area (Books/Magazines)?
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Does anyone know where one could get video copys of some of the films featured at the Banff 2002 Film Festival? It doesn't look like the tour is comming to Seattle anytime soon and I wanted to see Rich Heap's "Salathe - Blood, Sweat, and Bagels"
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Matt:
I used both the BD hammer and a $7 hareware store hammer. A hareware store hammer is fine for most routes that don't require much nailing. This, in my experience, encompasses most trad routes as they can go mostly clean. The routes I've done were all climbed back in the day when the climbers required the creativity to modify or manufacture their own equipment. I don't think a overpriced hammer will make the difference between success and failure on moderate aid routes. I drilled a hole for a funkness device, chopped off one of the nail-grippers, and attached a leash.
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Yeah chris, how dare you take a few swings at the ice before I do. Come on man, just leave the ice alone for people like cappellini and me.
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1. Salathe
2. W. Harding
3. Alpamayo
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Like other unemployed students, I have a time off during the last week of March. My problem is deciding where to go. Last year it was Yosemite, but conditions are rather unpredictable during that time of year. I was thinking of the Southwest or perhaps Banff?
I would like to hear others picks for spring climbing (trad, alpine, ice) destinations.
Aid soloing with gri-gri?
in The Gear Critic
Posted
The Gri Gri is the only device I use for soloing. MUCH easier than cloves and the rope won't burn through either. When you get far enough out on lead you have to watch for too much slack sliding through the device, but that's about it. Pulling rope through as you're moving up is cake when aiding, a little more difficult when free climbing.
Don't forget to backtie and ignore all the people who encourage Gri Gri modifications.