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payaso

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Posts posted by payaso

    Smith Rock Anyone?

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I will be down in Bend the week of Sept 23-27 and would really LOVE to have a chance to get on some rock while down there! I could be available to climb on the 22nd, 23rd, 24th (afternoon), 27th, 28th, or the 29th! I'll be down there by myself, the trip is work related. I can give a ride too but you probably won't be sharing my schedule (must be there 24th, 25th, 26th). I climb 5.7 - 5.8+ sport lead, willing to try higher stuff TRed but according to the book there are some nice 5.7s that should keep you busy for a couple days. I've never been and am really looking forward to getting down there! [Cool]

    Climbing/Communication with someone who CANT hear

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I think radios are the only way to reliably do it. The "tug" system can fail. Once when we were both out of each other's sight we waited for each other's tug signals, but realized much later that the rope had gotten caught. This wasted a lot of time waiting for "lost" signals. The lead tugged when he was finished and assumed I felt it. I tugged to indicate I was ready, but he never was able to respond. This could be very bad if the situation was critical. [Eek!]

    My American Idol.....

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    All these shows are such crap! I read that the next Survivor is going to be in Thailand. What a cakewalk! What could be better than having to spend a couple months with no connection to the outside world on an island in Thailand! Ahh the fresh seafood,the coconuts, the women, and if they pick the right island you'd get plenty of awesome climbing too. I won't consider that show legitimate until they have it in Greenland, Angola, North Korea, or perhaps Winnemucca, Nevada. Oh wait, don't they do that every year and call it Burning Man? A $250 a head anarchy festival. Whatever.

    Mount Logan (WA, not Canada)

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Did it in July, beautiful area with no one around. Nice views of Goode, B Basin, etc. Solo could be tricky on the banded towards the top of the Glacier as it was starting to open up back then, but who knows? Fremont would probably be more likely to lead to success.

    86xed OR EMPIRE STIKES BACK- Manifesto

    in Spray

    Posted

    Hugh, no one cares who you are, what you climb, or if you climb. You are insignificant. Are you by chance from Spanaway? Your parable sounds like a Meth-induced piece of real Shakespear, brilliant!

     

    ADMINISTRATORS- I have an idea, how about creating a hall of shame for clowns like this. Post their personal information and passwords and let everyone go to town with it. [Wazzup]

    Starting a private guide service?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I think that being paid to climb is the big motivator for you, but guiding is no vacation. You are not "paid to climb" so much as you are paid to bring em back down alive while listening to them whine and complain about you. This will mean retreating off of routes. When you go up with your buddies and weather or health dictate that you come back another day, you just do it. If you have paid top dollar to "summit" something, the expectations are much higher, as though the summit of a mountain were a commodity to be purchased.

    You will have a very hard time convincing someone to pay you $ around here unless you are affiliated with a professional organization. I believe many of the guide services have "interns" who volunteer for seasons at a time until they have cut their teeth on a great number of trips. I know that the guide service up in McCarthy operates this way. On a short term basis you probably stand a better chance of working as a base camp cook cutting SPAM into moose and bear shapes for the clients.

    Heading out on your own could get tricky with all the gov regulations regarding concessions in the parks. Sometimes a concessionaire will have the sole contract to conduct all guided trips of any kind, whether they actually offer the service or not. [Cool]

    Climbing Monday?

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I'd like to do some rock or alpine climbing on Sunday and or Monday anywhere within at most 3 hours drive from Seattle. On rock I'm a little wet behind the ears but I'll sport lead 5.7, no trad experience (leading) yet but can happily follow or will try leading the right pitch. Have car, rope, etc..... Would like to check out Leavenworth or ??? [Cool]

    NW FOREST PASS

    in Newbies

    Posted

    The FS claims that money raised from these things will be re-directed to the areas that they are used. I've often wondered how this could possibly be true. If I buy mine from REI or wherever, how do they know that I parked at the TH for Shuksan, Whitehorse, Blue lake or anywhere else for that matter. They would need to at least survey the number of cars parked with and w/o passes to attempt to direct funds at the most heavily used areas. We need the LAWGODDESS to take this on for us! Come on sweetheart, what do you say?

    Jobs for climbers?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    The best place to get a job in Bellingham is anywhere outside of Bellingham. There you need a Master's degree to schlep cream cheese on a bagel at the Bagelry. You really have to create a niche for yourself in that town. Don't get me wrong, I really love it there. The best job to have as a climber up there would be selling marijuana. That's all anyone up there does anyway. You could get paid to hike across the border in N. Cascades, hit the Picketts, and then pop out at Mt Baker cuz the Border Patrol is always looking for people with big packs up at Ross Lake. [rockband]

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