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EJohnson

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Posts posted by EJohnson

  1. Everything was great, we went up the couloir, climbed the east ridge. See MCash & Co TR Sherpa TR

    Then it went all down hill after that. Here we are, standing on the summit and its 6pm. I forgot my headlamp; John's batteries are dead in his. We both knew we are going have to spend a night without a sleeping bag or any kind of shelter. I just wanted to get down low, in the trees, before dark. We rapped and down climbed the East Ridge and scrambled down South towards Ingalls Creek. We found a cave in the boulder field, filled the floor with pine tree branches and crawled in. The night consisted of, brief periods of sleep, interrupted by violent shivering. First light, we crawled out and hiked toward Sherpa Pass and out.

    1099Bivy.jpg

  2. So after a third trip with new Trango boots and wet feet. I’m starting to get a little pissed about paying $250 for Gore-tex boots that don’t keep my feet dry. I decided to do a home test of waterproofness of the boots. I placed the boots in sink with water level right below the second lace loop. After 30 min, the lining is wet and I have a puddle on the foot bed.

    I’m thinking about writing to La Sportiva about the problem. What do you guys think? I’m asking for to much? Suggestions please? cry.gif

     

    Erick

  3. Same here, Gore-tex was the only resason why I went with these instead of the older version. I wish I would have bought boots at REI so I could return them. Second Ascent has whole bunch of the older version for $160.

     

    Erick

  4. Last week I picked up a pair to replace my dying Trango Ice. I got in two outing with the new boots, one was moderately-steep NE couloir on Sherpa & the other was a hike up Daniel.

    The boots are very comfortable right out of the box. They hike well, climb snow good and rock even better.

    Couple of problems I do have with the boots are; Waterproofness & longevity

    During both hikes I was wearing gaiters and I literally rung out my socks. I'm doubting there is goretex liner in boots.

    Longevity issue has to do with the soles. The rubber is soft and is already showing visable ware. I might get two seasons before replacing.

     

    thumbs_up.gif up for comfort & thumbs_down.gifthumbs_down.gif down for waterproofness

     

    Erick

  5. Seriously, up until this last snow fall winter/spring hiking has been great.

    Hikes that I can think of with zero avalanche issues are; low land hikes or trails that stay in heavy timber. This winter I been hiking up to four times a week with rotation of trail up the I90 corridor like;

     

    Si, Westside trail – steeper & less people then the main trial

    Teneriffe – Go up the water fall trail & for more mileage Tenerife to Si traverse

    Mailbox – Worried about avalanches, Stay to left of both boulder fields

    Mt. Washington – Off of Ex38

    West Defiance to Defiance to Bandera – Triple Peak Traverse – good vert & mileage

    Granite – Up the South Ridge – Stay out the gullies – Extra mileage Pt5566 & Pt5200

     

    There’s a bunch more – also check out the lakes like; Pratt, Tuscohatchie & Melakwa makes a nice loop

     

    If you need directions & topos I can post

     

    Erick

  6. I too stumbled upon that cabin last year walking up the road during the closer. I did some searching; the cabin was built by Gilbert Landre 1893. Gilbert's Cabin

     

    The cabin is also listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

     

    Fred Beckey's "Range of Glaciers" book might have more info.

    I bet Lowell Skoog would have more information on the history too.

     

     

    I didn't find any information on the Middle Fork cabin.

  7. Climb: Stuart-Ice Cliff Glacier

     

    Date of Climb: 2/26/2005

     

    Trip Report:

    Old February trip report. With all the great weather I had to get out. After unsuccessful attempt to rope in a partner, I was looking for something I could solo. Something within my grade but still interesting. After reading Tod trip report, Ice Cliff Gl sounds like a good objective. At the very least I will have a look.

    Slept in my car at junction of Icicle & Eightmile Friday night. Woke up at 3:30am to a cold morning, frost covered windows inside and out. Started hiking up the road @ 4am under a bright full moon. It was so bright I didn’t need a headlamp until I reach the trail. With the help of a great boot path, I was at the base of route at 9. From the crest of the moraine, I could see a party of three just about to exit out the couloir. Man, they must have started very early. Up through the ice cliff on the left, one 12’ AI2 to flats.

    Another 10’ WI2 entering the couloir then 45 to 50 degree neve to the top. I spent about 3 hours on route and another 30 minutes to the summit. Coming down the Sherpa was tedious, couple of inches snow covering 45 degree neve. At the bottom of the glacier I caught up to the party three. Turns out to be Gyselinck and party, back from a failed attempt the previous weekend. Back to car around 7:30, hour later I eating a big bowl of pasta and drinking a Dead Guy in town. Great conditions, Great Weather!!

     

     

    1099Ice_Cliff_3-med.jpg1099Ice_Cliff_2-med.jpg1099Ice_Cliff_1-med.jpg

     

    Gear Notes:

    Tools & Crampons

     

    I would like to thank the companies that I sponsor: GU, Safeway Peanutbutter and Bread. If it wasn't for them none of this would have happened!!

     

    Approach Notes:

    Snow

  8. 1099West_Ridge_Topo.jpg

     

    We followed the topo in the Beckey Book. The horn picture is just after the face pitch with fixed pin. Maybe your thinking about the first white horn. Last year I went over that, there was a lodged red cam just below the block. Multiple variation can be done up there, very easy to pass slower groups.

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