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Everything posted by Doug_Hutchinson

  1. Ice Observations Page

    This is the greatest thing to happen to PNDub ice climbing since Showa released the Temres 282-02s, nice work @Kyle M!!!! The location maps are money. Do you think Frenchman Falls will be in tomorrow?? (That, of course, is a super funny nod, nod, wink, wink, joke) How much are you going charge for the premium version with the webcams and telemetry data associated with each climb?
  2. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Thanks for the link Kurt. Calvin is the next corner system, up and right (west), that was our plan B because it looks better now compared to the FA. Christian Junkar made this video of what we climbed. Does a good job of showing the current state of the ice, or lack thereof https://youtu.be/eb9cnOqKXg0
  3. WA Ice Conditions 2020-21

    Ice is slowing forming, but it is still early. On Thursday (Dec 3), Tom and Christian scratched their way up Chair's NE Butt's left variation and reported snicey conditions - not recommended yet. Chair from Snoqualmie, looks more covered than it is: The three of us went reconning on Snoqualmie's NW Face yesterday, and managed to scratch two pitches up this slabby flow in a corner halfway between the Thunder Basin exit chute (AKA west ridge notch) and the Snot. This climb starts right of a large cave and looks like it would top out through a house-size chockstone. Anyone know its history and route name? We found several rap anchors. The exit chute is off to the right center edge of this photo: New York Gully, under very dry conditions: Pineapple Express/Blue Moon - thin but probably the farthest along currently: Turf Testament, still pretty turfy:
  4. Sweet photos and TR! But don't tell anyone how awesome it is there... We we were the party arriving when you were leaving. Love that place. You got better snow but we had a little better weather (I assume).
  5. Wayne and I climbed this route on Sunday, thank you FAs! A really fun great addition. I think we had more ice on the mixed pitches than you (one week later) so could use screws most of the way. P2 was especially fun but both the mixed pitches were really great. Hope it doesn't fall apart during the warm up before more people can check it out. The top of P1 (right after the pillar) and the end of the last pitch had no barely any ice when we climbed it. Before I saw this, I posted some super shitty pics in the OR/WA thread in the ice climbing forum on this site (but yours are much better). You guys are on fire in Bridge River canyon with new routes!
  6. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    Add - uploading IG photos to CC.com from my phone in the back of a bar was so easy with the new software even I could do it after a few drinks, but they sure look funny (more saturated and pixelated) now that I am in front of a computer. Oh well, any content is better than no content.
  7. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    Just like everyone knows the best rock climbing area in Oregon is Beacon Rawk, in years like this one the best WA ice is found in Lil'wet. A cold air mass has been parked north of the border for the past several weeks so the ice up there now is good. On Saturday, Wayne and I climbed Capricorn = a classic Lillooet WI5 in the isolated Bridge River Valley. Sunday, we got the second ascent of Bitcoin Billionaire, a route first climbed a week ago by Danny O'Farrell, Hunter Lee and Steve Janes located a little out of view of the top of the pic above. It is a 7 pitch, M5/6, WI4 insta-classic with all the alpine essentials: a river ford, a snow slog to the base high up the valley, a fragile pillar start, two cool mixed chimneys, and a final phat curtain. The only thing missing was a bear attack, maybe someday.
  8. 2017/18 Oregon Washington ice

    Did a quick drive by Banks on way home from Canada yesterday. I would describe conditions as anemic. There isn't enough moisture from seeps or snow melt to build chubby ice now. None of the Devil's Punch Bowl climbs or Champagne are close. Here are shitty pics of the best ice I saw. Children of the Sun, the Cable (can TR but fragile), Xenith (not close):
  9. Arc'Teryx Alpha Comp jacket, medium, macaw. Bought at the sample sale, never used. Still has tag. Fantastic hybrid jacket (Goretex where you need it stretch soft shell where you don't) for climbing and backcountry skiing. I like it so much, I had to buy a backup (this one) but I have way too many shells now, so selling. I work in downtown Seattle and live on Beacon Hill so can meet in either location. Please reply to Craig's List ad: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/6043465261.html More info: The Arc'teryx Men's Alpha Comp Hoody is a hybrid jacket for weather protection and warmth while ice and alpine climbing. The Alpha Comp is versatile, using dual construction of fabrics to provide weather protection at the hood, shoulders, forearms, and hem with stretch through the core and underarms. The Fortius 1.0 fabric is stretchy and helps regulate heat. The trim fit falls to the hip, staying out of the way of climbing gear so you can focus on the next movement instead of adjusting your jacket. The hand pockets are lifted and won't get in the way of your harness, even if you have a snack tucked inside. Complete with a durable water repellent finish, the jacket takes on the weather without sacrificing movement or temperature. Pictured here: http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Arcteryx-Men-s-Alpha-Comp-Hoody_10251190_10208_10000001_-1_
  10. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Spent today scratching around Bryant Peak/Alpy Valley environs with Wayne. Ice conditions were surprisingly poor. Waist deep wallows accessed poorly-adhered, weak candle sticks. Chockstone looked in, Flow Reversal had ice but probably not continuous/climbable, and Resistance is Futile is MIA. We attempted the second ascent of Wayne and Laurel's FA from last winter - The Circumvention. Good route in scrappy shape now (but fun trying). Mixed pitches were OK but negligible ice to be found. Great overview sunny shot of this area from yesterday in this TR, first pic shows Bryant Couloir, Flow Reversal and the Circumvention (if you can pick them out under the snow): http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=37320.0 Seems like the cold snap flash froze the ice making machine and big weather changes are required for additional ice making, at least for climbs depending on melt/freeze in this area. I recommend looking for creek-type ice, or better yet, skiing now.
  11. La Sportiva Katana Lace 41.5 $100 SOLD

    SOLD La Sportiva Katana Lace climbing shoes, size 41.5 (performance fit about US 9.5 to 10). Used 5 days - basically new. Too large for my size 9 feet. $100. Outdoor Gear Lab's top all-around shoe: http://m.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Shoes-Reviews I work in downtown Seattle and live near Seattle Bouldering Project so can meet near either location. Please respond to Craiglist ad: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5788660229.html
  12. Two pairs of used ice tools, cheap

    Selling two pairs of well-used ice tools: 1) Black Diamond Vipers (first generation) pair - one with hammer and one with adze. Picks still have decent life left and all new BD picks are compatible with these tools. Good all around modern leashless tools. $150 for the pair. 2) Charlet Moser Pulsars pair - one with hammer and one with adze. Includes leashes. Would work great for Cascade mountaineering and as a second tool with a longer ax. $100 for the pair. I am in Seattle and don't really want to ship. Please view and reply to this Craigs List post: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5508771466.html
  13. Banff Ice Conditions thread

    Wayne, no mention about Rocket Man being so in? My ears are still ringing from your orgasmic howls during the drive by. EVERYTHING is in. It is a great season up here. It got pretty cold over the holiday week (O to -20F everyday, so the ice got pretty brittle) but temps are beginning to moderate now. It actually got into the low 20s Fahrenheit today in Field which is the highest I've seen since moving here in mid December
  14. SOLD

    All three packs sold.
  15. SOLD

    Sorry I left that out. It is a S/M. I am 5'10" and I purposely got the smaller one to ride above a harness but it is probably too small for someone bigger. Note- the Speed40 is the only pack left, the other two are sold.
  16. Hyperspace Rockfall Incident Saturday

    We were the second rope team - at the base of the Pressure Chamber when the rock cut loose. Brandon - way to keep it together to finish the pitch. I can't imagine being Florian (sp?) and having that block explode a few feet away (RandyEL - nice meeting you, we were the party that retold the story at the base of the wall). From what I have been seeing Iconoclast and Hyperspace seem to be getting almost as much traffic as Outerspace recently. As everyone else has said, there are still some scary death blocks remaining both where the rockfall happened at the top of the pitch below the 11a yellow alt pitch on Iconoclast, and the somewhat boot-shaped block wedged in on the first Hyperspace pitch. I expect no love for this opinion but between the loose blocks and increased traffic, bolted belay anchors (in rock that aint going nowhere) would be a nice addition to Iconoclast and Hyperspace.
  17. [TR] Colfax Peak - Cosley-Houston Yardsale 2/22/2015

    All aboard. Roj and I sent today quickly followed by Colin and Sara Hart. Today was a good day. Never afraid of superlatives, this is the best ice route in WA and is currently under fantastic conditions. The crux is a rad WI6 dagger, super solid now. The 'shrund at the base is gonna stop access soon though. And, yes, I am honoring the tradition of posting about the Polish Route under Cosley Houston TRs.
  18. adidas outdoor presents REINHOLD MESSNER

    So then, Roskelley might not be guaranteed your vote if he runs for office again? No doubt some of the questions were simply stupid even if they were an attempt at humor ("what is your favorite brand of lawnmower" WTF?) but I really liked the format of a casual fireside chat between friends as opposed to a completely reverential moderator asking the usual boring questions he has been asked a zillion times and I doubt the Mounties could have found someone else that Reinhold could feel as relaxed with. I have seen Reinhold about 15 years ago and the first half slide show was basically identical. During the Roskelley chat, I learned more about him than through his books and slideshow. Even through the dumb lawn mower question we learned that Reinhold's wife "wears the pants in the family" and she basically takes care of the castle. I liked the questions about his view of the Dawn Wall and the two recent Ueli Steck controversies and hearing Reinhold soften on style matters ("I have changed my view and I am less concerned about the style someone climbs anymore and more that they are honest about what style they used" or something like that). Anyway, although at times awkward it appeared to me that Reinhold was comfortable and having fun. This was a far cry from the Reinhold I saw the day before when he crashed our private Super Bowl party and watched in horror the spectacle of American football warts and all (i.e., with rabid 12th men jumping up and down, a booming PA system and 5 feet from a 100" screen). It was like dropping the Dali Lama in front row seats at a mixed martial arts fight - Reinhold was definitely not into it. Does he look like he is having fun? Lastly, Roskelley being happy/goofy was nice change from most elder PNW mountaineers who I usually find way too serious. Long winded way of saying, I liked the format and Roskelley was the probably the right man for the job but he needed an editor (EVERYONE needs an editor). And yes, obviously, my whole reason for replying is a chance to show off that pic.
  19. The new Index route du jour! Wayne and I climbed it last weekend. Loved the first and last pitches. Funny how a climb put up 8 years ago is now on everyone's radar.
  20. [TR] Buck Mountain - North Ridge 8/23/2014

    Thanks for the great TR. Always appreciate it when maps are included. The awesome Chiwawa valley needs more traffic/routes/beta. FWIW, we climbed Bear's Direct North Butt last weekend and Sunday turned out perfect with only some high clouds. Glad you guys didn't go for Bear though - crowding at the belays would have detracted from the experience.
  21. Suiattle River road

    I skied the Ptarmigan in late May this year. The bridge over Downy Creek was still there but there was a ton of construction occurring. The plan is to have the road repaired to pre-2003 condition by this October. My understanding is, that when construction ramps up (like now), all access (even walking) will be limited or restricted on Suiattle Road at times this summer so restricted access may be more of a problem then the (future?) removal of that bridge.
  22. My recent, not so good, experience at Index

    And, once again, last night around 7pm EVERY car in the parking lot had their windows smashed! And some had multiple windows smashed. The weird thing was it didn't appear much was stolen, just random asshole vandalism. Index can be very hard to love at times.
  23. [TR] Alpental Valley Ice

    Trip: Alpental Valley Ice - Date: 12/7/2013 Trip Report: Ice in the Alpy environs is really nice now. All the Alpental Falls (below Phantom Slide) look great, Chockstone is really fat, Kiddie Falls is in, and Wayne, Daniel and I found great ice on Flow Reversal. It is been too dry, too cold and the meager snow pack has been problematic for many climbs but most waterfall ice type routes are probably where it is at now. Temps never got out of the single digits today but no wind and the sun climbing above the ridges for a short period made for some nice conditions. The Valley was almost empty because there is not even enough snow for the slow shoe people to trample about the place - almost eerie . Do not bring skis or floatation, walk right up. Flow Reversal: P1 STOKE! P2 sounded like Wayne was playing a pipe organ with all the candlesticks being tapped and trundled but no pics since we had to hide. Daniel on P3 (fat!) Cold play:
  24. More proof that Snoqualmie is the place for ice this season. Thanks for another fun day, Justin. An awesome partner not only scopes the new lines but is extremely fair and generous in trading off on nice leads! We gotta learn how to take better pics and tilt cameras, etc since it looks so much more tiny than it really was. I really don't think two days of warm temps will do much to either of the Commonwealth Basin climbs if it cools down as expected this weekend - they are really, really fat now.
  25. Trip: Dirty Face Peak/Lake Wenatchee - Dirty Face Drool (FA) Date: 2/9/2014 Trip Report: Some climbs are harder than others to complete and the mighty Dirty Face Drool took me three attempts over four years to finally find the right conditions. This climb is probably of little significance to most everyone but me, but since this climb is right out the back door of my cabin; it has haunted me since I first saw it quasi-form in 2009. It is a south facing climb on Dirty Face Peak ½-mile past (west) of the Lake Wenatchee Ranger Station: It probably comes in for about 36 hours most years but the light colored rock creates a reflector oven to amplify the sun and quickly destroy it. Overview shot from a previous attempt which shows it better without today's fog and new snow (P1 hidden and not well-formed): My first attempts involved slabby mixed climbing up to M5 on P1 (I freaking hate slabby dry tooling) to find P2’s vertical curtain in not-yet-touched-down dagger shape. With the skiing continuing to be uninspiring, I was able to convince my favorite reluctant ice partner, Moira Armen, to give it a shot Sunday with promises of skiing by lunch when it turned into a dry tool fest. Surprise! We found stellar ice on a very high quality route. It went in five 40-60M pitches. Today, the climbing went up to casual WI4ish with lots of snow covering the frozen drainage in between fun curtains and shorter steps. P1 - easy today since all ice/no DT required. (Ice is obscured by last night's snow) P2 (so fat today!) P3: P4 was a move-the-belay pitch. Final pitch: The walk off was super easy with gorgeous Lake Wenatchee and Nason Ridge to add to the ambiance. And, we still were able to ski lots of laps at Stevens in the afternoon. PS - Every WA ice climb that I have done this year I think will probably be the last one of the season but two days after doing this climb (as in earlier today 2/11/2014) Justin Busch and I climbed really fat ice below Red Mtn. It is still out there if you go looking. Gear Notes: Screws only today but lots of rock gear used on previous attempts. Approach Notes: Oh yeah, that. Trespassing is technically required to reach this soon-to-be classic but the lots between the highway and the base of the climb are still undeveloped so park at the ranger station and walk softly.