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Everything posted by Doug_Hutchinson

  1. Alan Kearny book RoX!

    I have never read a guide with more inconsistent, awkward text. It seems to me that Nelson and Beckey gave way better beta for most of the climbs in the new book.
  2. Oregon Beta for a Desert Dweller

    I agree with Winter, Portland rock is way better than some wimpy, "I-only-climb-at-Smith" local climbers will have you believe. Last night after work, I climbed an incredible 300 foot 5.9 route at Beacon rock (not the SE corner) about 45 minutes from town. No other western PNW city comes close to Portland for cragging within an hour's drive. Alpine rock in Oregon definitely sucks. And the PDX local rock season is very short - i.e., May-Oct (actually Beacon just opened for the year). The rest of the year, you need to head to Smith or, better yet, ski!
  3. Best length for twin ropes?

    I am ready to replace my double 8.5mm alpine ropes with a pair of lighter (about 7.8mm twins). The purpose will be for long alpine rock climbs. I have 50m ropes now but am on the fence about going up to 60m. For a single rope, I have only 60m ropes and will probably go up to 70m next. However, for alpine and with ropes skinnier than 8mm, I could see how more length could be an unnecessary evil if you have twins. Thoughts?
  4. East Butt Washington (OR) descent beta?

    Climbing the east buttess of Mt. Washington in central Oregon this weekend, approaching from Cache Creek. Anyone know the best (i.e., fastest) way to get back to the Hortense Lake TH?
  5. PDX pub club

    I'll be in Peru climbing for the next three weeks, but I want to meet some of you. Specifically, PDX climbers that know how to both drink and climb - seems to be a shrinking minority. Someone please schedule again in a month (anymore more than once a month and these things get old).
  6. North Face of Graybeard conditions?

    Anyone taken a look at the NF of Graybeard recently? I want to try it next weekend but it may be getting late. I nominate this route to be the new over-discussed climb here, until I climb it. Then, we can go back to posting about Triple Couloirs, Chair Peak, etc.
  7. Hood North Face

    This has very little to do with the North Face (which is one of the best steep snow/ice lines in the Cascades!), but I circumnavigated Hood on skis last Sunday and found awesome conditions. The only tricky section was trying to save time and not lose elevation on the Elliot, we stayed high (i.e., 8600-8800') and crossed right below the huge fin shaped ice fall mentioned above. This was dumb because we did punch through a few crevasses in the middle of the glacier. PS - This ski will not be in much longer, and probably should not be done after April due all the rock that is just becoming exposed on lots of the ridge crossings.
  8. Climbing pants

    If you want to spend money and get the real deal, buy a pair made out of Shoeller (sp?) dryskin. All big name companies have them now (it's all the rage these days). At $100 to $200 a pair, it may seem crazy, but I've climbed and skied in one pair for over five years and they are one of the best investments I have ever made. Light, strong, mostly windproof, etc. MEC used to sell a generic pair for about $70 USD. You wouldn't regret this purchase if your credit is up to it.
  9. Triple Couloirs

    I know there have been only about 60,000 posts on TCs, but here's a question I have not seen discussed yet about this route: What are opinions about climbing the route with skis and AT boots? After climbing the backbone ridge last year, it was obvious that a ski descent of Dragontail would be ideal, but it is a little steeper than I would want to do in plastic mountaineering boots. Since conditions seem to be variable in TCs, I don't have a clear sense about how difficult the route would be with clumsy boots and skis on a pack. Bonus question: With a party of three, would two ropes be best for the rock bands or are they short enough to do with one 50M rope and the second tied into the middle?
  10. Triple Couloirs

    How far is the road blocked from the trailhead?
  11. This may be a tired old topic, but here goes: I just got a "US Distric Court Violation Notice (i.e., ticket)" for not paying the NW Forest Pass. I have always stongly opposed the fee demo program and all its children, but get confused. Is the NW Forest Pass part of the fee demo and, if so, is payment still voluntary? The whole concept is sickening but this ticket is little more formal and Federal than some I received years ago for not having a similar pass. Should I not pay? Should I do anything to make it more clear that I am not paying to express opposition? I have signed many petitions already and visited the WildWilderness web site. It's the name of the specific pass and ticket that confuse me.